What oil??? Help!!!

nos707

New Member
Sep 25, 2005
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UK
What oil do I use??

I am just about to change the oil, and im not sure what oil to put back in it.

An engine builder here in the Uk recommended Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 but im not sure?

Can anyone help?

1993 5.0, Holley Systemax II kit, Lunati Roller Cam, Eagle Rods, Eagle Crank.

(Sorry, Message posted twice by mistake!!)
 
First, does it get very cold where you live? i.e. are you going to see snow this winter? If yes, then you might want a thinner weight oil. If not, you would probably be fine with the 20/50.
 
Thanks guys!

In the UK its always cold!! lol

I will only be driving it March-Oct/Nov!

It will be garaged before the cold weather comes!

This is what I need to decide before I change the oil this weekend after I change a head gasket!

20/50 or something like 10w30??

What do you think??
 
Average daily driving Temp will be between 55-80. Maybe 90-95 in the hight of summer!

Think I will be going for 10w30 or 10w40!

Like you all say, 20w50 might be abit too thick!!

Part of Fully Synthetic though???

Is there a big difference??
 
nos the purpose of using lighter viscosity oil in the cold is so the oil will circulate faster through your motor . I would not use any kinda synthetic if you have a lot of miles on that motor....it can seep through old gaskets.

I have 80,000 on my motor and usually use quaker 10/40 highmilage and 10/30 in the winter
 
I'd go with 10W30.... maybe 10W40 if you've got a bit of mileage on the motor, say, over 120,000 km's. Likewise, you might want to stay away from synthetic oil if you've got a higher mileage engine. I switched to synthetic on my original engine and it did result in a very minor oil drip.

You guys have Mobil oil in the UK, right? It's good stuff... especially Mobil 1 if you choose to go with a synthetic. I'm sure Valvoline is fine as well.

Sounds like you must have one of the nicest 5.0's over there, especially considering there aren't that many running around. :D
 
The motor has done about 4k scince complete rebuild.

The car has only done 27k since new!

I have bought some Valvoline durablend 10w40 tonight!

Do you guys think this will work fine?
 
For a fresh mill, unless is was specifically built loose (you would have specified for it to be built this way), I would go with the thin stuff! On a tight motor, 10W-30 should be great. You want the thinnest oil that maintains pressure at ALL times (hot idle is normally when the pressure drops the most). If you can achieve that with a thinner (i.e. 10W-30) oil, that is what I would use (Remember, pressure is a measure of resistance to flow).

Now if you built it loose, burn some oil, see a real hot-idle pressure drop, etc, then a thicker oil can help. But I would not go thicker than needed, and would start thin and work my way up thicker as needed.


Good luck.
 
200,000 HARD miles of dino oil...she never gave up...it's more about keeping clean oil in it along with good quality filters. Like with most things in life, you get what you pay for.
 
DMAN302 said:
200,000 HARD miles of dino oil...she never gave up...it's more about keeping clean oil in it along with good quality filters. Like with most things in life, you get what you pay for.


100% True. Use the Best oil and filters etc, change it every 3000 Miles, and your cars motor will last a LONG time.
 
As this motor is only 1 year old, and only done 2-3k I have bout some
Valvoline durablend 10w40.

I havent got an oil temp guage.

Am I right in thinking that you need to weld a sensor in the sump to fit one?

As long as I keep an eye on Oil pressure I should be ok...right?
 
Here's a great piece on oil and filters. Read up and then make your decision. http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

My suggestion - with a new engine, and as little as you drive the car - I'd put a 10w30 synthetic in it, use only a good filter (no FRAM), change the filter every 3000 miles, and change the oil once a year right before you store it. When you do start it/drive it - keep it running long enough to FULLY heat up the oil/crankcase (usually 20-30 minutes). That will drive all the condensate out of the crankcase.