What Parts do i need to run a kenne Bell ?

FordStang

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
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Orange Park, FL
i wanna run the kenne bell supercharger and have it on by next spring. Just wondering what all do i need besides injectors, fuel pump. prob have to go with the GT40 intake so i the blower will bolt up. also do i need to tap a line into the oil pan for a oil line or is the oil right in the blower? will i be able to use a foxbody t/b still with the kenne bell? sorry for rambling on and on just need to get some info and sell some parts i have now to start buying some new.
 
Check first to make sure the KB doesnt allready come with the lower intake it needs. Oil lines... You'll have the feed and you'll have to tap a hole in your oil pan for the drain line.

From the picture on KB's website, it looks like you wont have any problem keeping your fox TB with it. Its setup the same way as most aftermarket intakes where the 94/95's need the elbow. Hope this helps
 
Kenne Bells' don't need external oil lines. They are self contained gear systems that need to be changed every so often. The KB 1500s' use the stock HO lower intakes and the larger KB use the Cobra/GT40/Explorer lower intake. I don't think they have made one for aftermarket lowers' yet. The kits are complete for stock cars. With your mods you could probaly get one for less money since you don't need a larger fuel pump/injectors. You might want to get a boost ignition retard device like the MSD 6BTM ignition box. Or, if you already have a 6A/6AL you can get an external unit that works with what you have already. Go to their website and look around. KB has decent amount of info on their site.
 
I've done a lot of research as far as which KB to go for.

With a full tilt na combo the little 1500 starts to run out of breath on the big end when trying to push more that 8 lbs of boost.

I think the KB is the way to go on a street car but if you want to be able to tell your buds that your car dynos 450+ rwhp then maybe a centrifugal sc would be better for you.

Later
Grady
 
I ordered the Blowzilla 2200 several weeks back. In addition to my other mods I am upgrading the radiator to a fludiyne, 38# injectors, Pro-M80 and the custom tune the car.

BTW, it takes for ever to get one, they are very back logged.
 
I paid 3250.00 Total for my Blowzilla. another 300 for New MAF and Injectors, and another 337 for a fluidyne as well as guage pillar and electric fuel and boost guages. So a bit over 4k for the blower combo. I would estimate another 4-600 for tuning and chip. I will also be upgrading the trans, clutch and rear shortly. So toons more money to be spent. I would have also gone the flowzilla route but it does not have the EGR hook up and I need to be able to pass emissions.

I would estimate only a 100hp increase at 8-9#. I am halfway hoping I pop the motor and can justify a 331 with AFR 185 or bigger

I will upload some pics soon and post them.
 
Good Grief!!! Hmmm, I don't know a thing about KB blowers, so I think I'll post to help this guy out... Guys if you spread misinformation, you are not helping, you are hurting...

First of all the KB replaces the upper intake. You need either a stock lower or a GT 40 lower - KB does not supply this. If you get a Flowzilla, which is a much bigger inlet and worth 40 RWHP, you need a GT 40 lower. ALL KBs have self contained oiling systems - as mentioned, no external oil needed. Figure 15 RWHP per pound of boost. The 1500 can run up to 12# of boost, I have done this and many others have too. But if you have good heads intake and ehaust, it will run out of steam - and you will see a boost drop at 3500 or so and up. The 2200 will not do this, you can run 20+ pounds of boost, but in reality, the practical limit for a 5.0 kit, with no intercooler is about 13-14# and with that the intake charge temps will be so high that you will be really detonation prone. KB now only sells the Flowzilla with the 2200, although it will work with a 1500. And for high boost levels like 14-15# you need race gas and water injection on a 5.0.

You should still use a SN95 TB and a bend, it's much easier, unless you are already set up for it. But get the biggest you can find.

If you buy the basic 1500 kit, they send you everything you need to get going safely. And actually, that's what I'd recommend you do. Then you can add things step-by-step. If you decide to do it without a kit, you'll need at least 42# injectors and a 255 FP, a bigger MAF, like a 90mm LMAF, a good exhaust and a custom chip. On a blower car the lower won't make that much difference, at the power levels you will see. The GT 40 will flow better though.

A KB will not make the peak power a centrifugal car will, but it's all about average power, or power under the curve - my 1500 made 360 to the wheels and I went 11.7, my 2200 made 405 and I went 11.1/123. I beat many a car that dynoed much higher peak numbers than mine did.

Good Luck - you'll be very happy with it!
Don
 
Box stock edelbrock heads, 1.7 RRs, 75mm TB, Pro-M 80mm with 42's, 373 gears and a good tune and some chassis mods - on drag radials. The car ran 11.1/123 weighing 3700#, with 139,000 miles on the odometer with the 2200 and basically the same combo, except for a cam and water injection and an auto tranny. I've never run slicks. My latest combo, while not a KB, so far, seems a lot faster...