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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

What rear battery kit????????

  • Thread starter Thread starter jghood13
  • Start date Start date Apr 14, 2006
J

jghood13

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
160
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NY
Apr 14, 2006
#1
  • Apr 14, 2006
  • #1
I want to do a rear battery kit. Which one should I order and from where? How easy is a proper install? I need to go to the track in the next to weeks or so. Also does anyone have detailed pictures of the install or a clean carberated engine compartment after the install??

ON SECOND THOUGHT I DONT WANT TO HASSLE WITH THIS,
Where can I buy the nice bullet kits for mounting the battery up front, the battery holder was broken when I bought the car and before I put it on the road I want to fix the problem, thanks
 

GreatWhite

Member
Feb 24, 2006
232
1
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Fairfield, PA
Apr 14, 2006
#2
  • Apr 14, 2006
  • #2
subscribing...ttt
 

RBRANDX

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Mar 10, 2006
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Apr 14, 2006
#3
  • Apr 14, 2006
  • #3
Go ahead and do it! It will clean up the engine bay, help with weight transfer, and looks trick! I would get the Taylor alum box ( what I have) its a straight foreward install, comes with everthing you need, and is NHRA approved. Anyone with basic auto knowledge should be able to complete the install in an hour or two...DO IT!!
 
8

86bluecobra

Advanced Member
Dec 20, 2004
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Apr 14, 2006
#4
  • Apr 14, 2006
  • #4
i have the talor box aswell. moroso also makes a sealed bix that is nhra approved.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 14, 2006
#5
  • Apr 14, 2006
  • #5
I've always wanted to get the Moroso one, but haven't dropped the cash on it yet.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
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Apr 15, 2006
#6
  • Apr 15, 2006
  • #6
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.


One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars


Picture courtesy timewarped1972


Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


For a battery cut off switch, see
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225 is
the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge
wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40'
of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power
to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more…

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,016
1,613
194
NJ
Apr 15, 2006
#7
  • Apr 15, 2006
  • #7
I used the taylor kit, with a cut off switch.

If i did it again, i would of pieced it together and used the moroso box, it's nicer and since it's not metal their is less chance of shorting things out if you are messing with the battery.
 
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