Fox What should I get?

kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
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#1
So in keeping with replacing everything when while putting car back together... I plan to pull the dash to replace the heater core come spring (it wasn't leaking or anything when i got car over 5 years ago, but for the 1 time I drove it, it wasn't putting out heat, plus I have no idea how old or if it's ever been replaced... so I bought a new one from LMR 5 years ago when I started this... so I also plan to replace the A/C evap as well, since all that stuff has been disconnected all this time... the compressor the PO told me he just replaced when I bought the car... so that's is staying but I'm replacing everything else.. I have everything else I believe ( lines, dryer) except the evap and condenser...

so on Rockauto... there are (3) choice for each... (where are all ceaper the on LMR or AM) so which would you guys get?

A/C Condenser - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...85,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+condenser,6708

A/C Evaporator core - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...t+&+air+conditioning,a/c+evaporator+core,6768


Also, got all new stuff for rear drum brakes already... so I'm going to replace all the front stuff too... already ran all new SS lines, and have the bradid lines for front caliabers...

So what Calibers would you guys pick - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...cid+v8,1133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704

And wheel bearings - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

And I was thinking of getting this Rotor and pad kit from AM - https://www.americanmuscle.com/powe...sport-brake-rotor-pad-kit-front-8793-50l.html

Also, I'm going to get the MM SS brake caliber sleeves to upgrade/replace the rubber ones they come with.

And Master cyl - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

And what belt tensioner would you guys pick from these - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...id+v8,1133985,belt+drive,belt+tensioner,11659

And Distributor - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+302cid+v8,1133985,ignition,distributor,7108
I believe I have a Motorcraft module on my current one already, so I don't need one with it... looks like the new ones are cheaper, but I'm guessing there not ford ones... the reman ones I assume are - the first one is the one I'm thinking might be best? - A-1 CARDONE 302892

so many choices, gets confusing...
 
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#2
So in keeping with replacing everything when while putting car back together... I plan to pull the dash to replace the heater core come spring (it wasn't leaking or anything when i got car over 5 years ago, but for the 1 time I drove it, it wasn't putting out heat, plus I have no idea how old or if it's ever been replaced... so I bought a new one from LMR 5 years ago when I started this... so I also plan to replace the A/C evap as well, since all that stuff has been disconnected all this time... the compressor the PO told me he just replaced when I bought the car... so that's is staying but I'm replacing everything else.. I have everything else I believe ( lines, dryer) except the evap and condenser...

so on Rockauto... there are (3) choice for each... (where are all ceaper the on LMR or AM) so which would you guys get?

A/C Condenser - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...85,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+condenser,6708

A/C Evaporator core - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...t+&+air+conditioning,a/c+evaporator+core,6768


Also, got all new stuff for rear drum brakes already... so I'm going to replace all the front stuff too... already ran all new SS lines, and have the bradid lines for front caliabers...

So what Calibers would you guys pick - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...cid+v8,1133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704

And wheel bearings - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672

And I was thinking of getting this Rotor and pad kit from AM - https://www.americanmuscle.com/powe...sport-brake-rotor-pad-kit-front-8793-50l.html

Also, I'm going to get the MM SS brake caliber sleeves to upgrade/replace the rubber ones they come with.

And Master cyl - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...133985,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

And what belt tensioner would you guys pick from these - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...id+v8,1133985,belt+drive,belt+tensioner,11659

And Distributor - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+302cid+v8,1133985,ignition,distributor,7108
I believe I have a Motorcraft module on my current one already, so I don't need one with it... looks like the new ones are cheaper, but I'm guessing there not ford ones... the reman ones I assume are - the first one is the one I'm thinking might be best? - A-1 CARDONE 302892

so many choices, gets confusing...
For your brakes I would start with the MM brake upgrade kit, but it looks like you may have already replaced some of the parts that would come in that kit. I would go with Hawk pads and the Centric replacement rotors. I bought the CTEK ones but other than looking cool, the slotted drilled bs probably wont make any difference. As far as calipers are concerned they will all be remaned units so just buy from somewhere that has a replacement warranty and good customer service.

I bought the tensioner from LMR when I did my alternator upgrade and no havent had any issue.

I wouldnt buy a distributor unless the one you have is failing. If it's not a Motorcraft one, just run what you have until you can locate a Motorcraft piece.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#3
Make sure you buy a heater hose restrictor. It goes in the inlet side of the heater core hoses. It helps keep pressure down inside the core and helps longevity.
 

Steel1

Advanced Member
Aug 18, 2017
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#4
+1 on Hawk pads, I have been happy with Hawk HPS.
I run MM upgraded rear shoes on my cruiser.
I agree with the dizzy as well, non OEM internals can cause fits with these cars, been there done that.
Not sure what year your car is but if it's a roller cam you'll need dizzy with steel gear.
I currently run a Spectra dizzy (393w) and swapped out all the internals for Motorcraft,
not only did I replace the electronics but also the shutter wheel.
I was originally running the shutter that camewith the dizzy and was having all kinds of intermittent misses
that were driving me nuts, after a lot of frustration I compared shutter wheel to the stock one off my old
dizzy and the vanes/spacing were a different size!
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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#5
I would be 100% sure the heater core is bad (and not just clogged or you have another cooling system issue) and especially the evap core before I go pulling the dash.
That box isn't going to come out easy and when it does it's not going to want to open up.
The heater core will come out but remove certain nuts, bolts and screws. The evap box is a whole different animal.

I also agree about the distributor.
 
Oct 6, 2011
838
389
104
THE BUCKET
#6
+1 on Hawk pads, I have been happy with Hawk HPS.
I run MM upgraded rear shoes on my cruiser.
I agree with the dizzy as well, non OEM internals can cause fits with these cars, been there done that.
Not sure what year your car is but if it's a roller cam you'll need dizzy with steel gear.
I currently run a Spectra dizzy (393w) and swapped out all the internals for Motorcraft,
not only did I replace the electronics but also the shutter wheel.
I was originally running the shutter that camewith the dizzy and was having all kinds of intermittent misses
that were driving me nuts, after a lot of frustration I compared shutter wheel to the stock one off my old
dizzy and the vanes/spacing were a different size!
If you are gonna say dizzy that many times in a post you might as well just @CarMichael Angelo
 

Dan02gt

10 Year Member
Mar 2, 2003
532
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Greenville, NC
#8
Kendawg
I have the Maximum Motorsports factory brake upgrade kit that uses the Hawk HPS pads. I run Stoptech rotors with Timken bearings and the Raybestos reman calipers. I've been happy with all of the parts.
 

CarMichael Angelo

I don't like your attitude, let me fix that.
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#9
If you are gonna say dizzy that many times in a post you might as well just @CarMichael Angelo
Gee....thanks. I appreciate the shout out.
However,...since you brought it to my attention..( for those of the 11 letter challenge club)

How fckin hard is it to say ( or write ) the whole word?

It's a distributor. Dizzy is what you get from bending over, putting your forehead on the small end of a baseball bat, and spinning around and around it for a 10 count.
A tranny is a gender confused person.
And
A posi belongs in a Chevrolet..

The best thing that ever came out of Ford was the modular engine...'cause it don't have a "dizzy".

Who came up with this sht in the first place? The beach boys?, Jan and Dean?, Little Ronnie and the Daytonas?
 
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Steel1

Advanced Member
Aug 18, 2017
489
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#10
Wow! didn't realize the term DIZZY brought out so much anger ...lol
Oh well, dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy dizzy...I mean distributor,
Sorry couldn't resist.
I guess it wasn't my most eloquently constructed reply but effective.
 
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kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
292
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#11
Make sure you buy a heater hose restrictor. It goes in the inlet side of the heater core hoses. It helps keep pressure down inside the core and helps longevity.
Yep, I already have that sitting in my parts cache in the basement
 

kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
292
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#12
I would be 100% sure the heater core is bad (and not just clogged or you have another cooling system issue) and especially the evap core before I go pulling the dash.
That box isn't going to come out easy and when it does it's not going to want to open up.
The heater core will come out but remove certain nuts, bolts and screws. The evap box is a whole different animal.

I also agree about the distributor.
I have to pull the dash anyway to clean and dye it black... changing the prono red interior to black, so the stock dash is black and red... and I already bought the new core 5 years ago... and all the other cooling system stuff will be new, engine rebuilt, and I installed reman gt40p heads and explorer intake, have a new SVE 3 core alum rad. I bought 5 years ago as well, along when new fan clutch and new fan... (had a flex fan on it when I got it..) of course new t-stat, and have new silicon coolant hoses that will go on, as well ad new coolant res. tank, and a new coolant heater tube., new ford racing stock water pump too....

As for the EVap core, I thought I read on here somewhere, that it was a good idea to replace that stuff if it's been open for awhile? I've had it disconnect for 5 years when I pulled the motor and stuff out.
 

kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
292
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#13
As for the Dizzy... (sorry lol) my car is a '90, had 165k on it when I got it home and pulled motor... had motor rebuilt, and I installed new cam and time set... from what I read, you are suppose to replace the drive gear on the dizzy with a cam change so they wear together since the one on the dizzy could have alot of wear on it???

I thought of changing just the drive gear, but from what I found when I was looking a year or so ago... they didn't have a hole in them, so you had to drill that yourself... well I don't like that... because I know with my luck it will go all bad... and to even get it in the right spot...

I don't know if the dizzy I have now is the original or if it's been replaced a few times... who knows... I don't have the experience either to fully inspect and check it to see if it's even in spec's. So I figured just get a cardone reman one would be the best bet, since that would be a rebuilt stock Ford motorcraft one right? or is that not the case?

And I"m not sure what all parts (if you can even buy all the part) to rebuilt it myself).

Also, looking now, they have a Bronze one listed for the roller cams on LMR - https://lmr.com/item/CCA-435/1986-95-Mustang-Bronze-Distributor-Drive-Gear-For-50L-58L

AM has it too.. - https://www.americanmuscle.com/compcams-530gear-bronze-8695.html and looks like it does have the hole in it...

The roller cams ( I have a E303, and ford racing timing set) are steel cams correct? all roller cams are steel?

I thought you had to use Steel gear? I'm no genius but I believe Bronze is a softer metal they steel... so I'm all kinds of confused...

ok seems bronze are for race use, and should be changed everyear...

new problem.... I just check the timing set - https://lmr.com/item/M6268A302/Ford-Racing-289-50L-58L-Roller-Timing-Chain M6268A302 and it says CAST IRON cam gear.... WTF... so that would mean I would need a cast iron dizzy gear now then? and why wold they sell that for a replacment for a 90 mustang which had a roller motor, so the OEM cam gear would of been steel...
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#14
I've never seen anyone determine the distributor gear material and camshaft based on the timing set. I don't know if there is a difference between thinking chain set harmonics. Never seen a gear fail because of timing set either.

My personal opinion...I think you'll be ok with the Ford racing timing set and the e303 with steel gears. I've done it that way for a very long time.
 

kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
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#15
I've never seen anyone determine the distributor gear material and camshaft based on the timing set. I don't know if there is a difference between thinking chain set harmonics. Never seen a gear fail because of timing set either.

My personal opinion...I think you'll be ok with the Ford racing timing set and the e303 with steel gears. I've done it that way for a very long time.
yeah, I'm a idiot... forgot the cam has that gear built in it (I'm here like, wtf does it matter what the cam is made of!!) I was thinking the timing set gear is what the dizzy gear was messing with... god I losing my mind...

I hang my head in complete shame................
 

Steel1

Advanced Member
Aug 18, 2017
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#16
Cardone distributor will not be a remaned Motorcraft unit . You can use the housing and replace the electronics with
Motorcraft pieces:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1134076,ignition,distributor+pickup+coil,7176
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1993,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134076,ignition,distributor+cap,7120
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1134076,ignition,distributor+pickup+coil,7176
I bought the Spectra unit since it came with a steel gear but you're still going to need to remove it to replace
electronics, get yourself a good small roll-pin punch for gear removal.
If you think your shutter wheel is not oem than do yourself a favor and pick one up from ProM racing,
Trust me it could save you a lot of frustration.
http://www.promracing.com/tfi-distributor-shutter-wheel-188.html
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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#17
All this distributor talk is making me dizzy. :O_o:
 

kendawg73

Active Member
Feb 5, 2014
292
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39
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#18
Cardone distributor will not be a remaned Motorcraft unit . You can use the housing and replace the electronics with
Motorcraft pieces:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1134076,ignition,distributor+pickup+coil,7176
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1993,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134076,ignition,distributor+cap,7120
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1134076,ignition,distributor+pickup+coil,7176
I bought the Spectra unit since it came with a steel gear but you're still going to need to remove it to replace
electronics, get yourself a good small roll-pin punch for gear removal.
If you think your shutter wheel is not oem than do yourself a favor and pick one up from ProM racing,
Trust me it could save you a lot of frustration.
http://www.promracing.com/tfi-distributor-shutter-wheel-188.html
hmmm Mines been sitting in a box with the other prats when I pulled the motor several years ago, I'll dig it out this week and and clean it up a little and see if I can see what it has.... sounds like my best best would be to get the motorcraft pickup coil, and also check and see if the TFI is a motorcraft part... that link for the sutter wheel was very interesting... any way to tell for sure if the one in the dizzy is aftermarket? And the shutter wheel likes like its only available for MSD, Mallory, and performance dist.. doesn't say anything about the stock one.

If I can just clean mine up and upgrade it with motorcraft parts that would be great... I'm just not sure of the real miles on it, and if the bearing in it would be a concern...

I want to get this ready to install come spring so I can fire the motor..
 
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CarMichael Angelo

I don't like your attitude, let me fix that.
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Nov 29, 1999
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#19
I've never seen anyone determine the distributor gear material and camshaft based on the timing set. I don't know if there is a difference between thinking chain set harmonics. Never seen a gear fail because of timing set either.

My personal opinion...I think you'll be ok with the Ford racing timing set and the e303 with steel gears. I've done it that way for a very long time.
I had the same reply set to go, but figured it'd get lost in the forest of " Dizzy".
.
 
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