What supporting mods do I need for this blower?

[Nottoofast50]

My car is a 92 gt auto with :

4:10 gears, pulleys, shift kit, transcooler, 1 5/8 mac longtubes, offroad hpipe, flows, ram air/K&n, ported gt40ps, ported explorer intake, ecam, 1.6rr, 76m C&L, 65m tb, 190 fuel pump, 24lb injectors,lakewood 90/10's 50/50's, 3g alternator, continental(taurus)electric fan with dc controller

A good friend of mine has a novi2k that we are going to put on my car. I am pretty broke after buying the blower and college etc. Can I run the blower with a really rich tune for a while with the mods I have now or is there anything else I HAVE to buy before i put it on. We will probably run the FMU just to be safe. Also what would you recomend I buy to support it in the future once i get some money. novi2k will be run at stock boost levels(9-10psi i t hink).

 

[Rick 91GT]

Well the C&L will not work well if at all with the blower, it is best to upgrade to a 80mm Pro-M.

If you are upgrading I would go to a 36# inj.

You should be fie although some way of pulling timing would be nice, either a MSD BTM unit or other device or a tuner wouold be best all around PMS, etc..

I would go 1 range colder on the plugs and gap it down to .035-.040" I think it will make around 10psi on that motor.

 

[Nottoofast50]

Why will the C&L not work? Also 10psi on a conservative tune should be good for at least 75rwhp im guessing? Combo made 245hp/275tq n/a i'm thinking 320/350 with 10 psi?

 

[N8Miller]

I think that rick meant that the 80mm will be best for your setup. It reads the air the best and will help alot.
again, like rick said, 36s would be best, but if you dont plan on doing heads, i wouldnt go any lower than 30s.
I think that since your on a budget, you should get a BTM. if you have a laptop, i would go with a tweecer or the RT version.

also, i would go with a 70mm throttle body (pm me if you need one--cheap).

 

[matm347]

Assuming your numbers are RW, you have around 310 +/-5 at the flywheel.
It takes about 17psi to double your power at the flywheel, but 14.2(one atmosphere) to double it without the drag of the blower itself.

The important thing to consider is that your motor will actually be producing more power than what is at the flywheel/wheels, so all components will need to support the actual power, not the power seen.

10/17X310=182...this is the HP the 10 PSI will add at the flywheel.

10/14.2X310=218....this is the extra power your motor will actually produce from the 10psi.

You should have around 490 at the flywheel with 10psi, or around 390 at the wheels.

But your fuel system will need to support the ~530 HP your motor will actually produce.

You'd have to put 90 PSI thru the 24#ers for them to support this power which is no good!....40PSI thru 36#ers is much easier to attain.(60thru 30#ers.)

NGKs suggestion is one heat range per 100 HP.

 

[Nottoofast50]

i have gt40ps... the numbers are rwhp. I'd like to keep the C&L for now(bc of budget constraints) but i could get a new sampling tube and 36# injectors. will the 190 fuel pump be ok? Will 10psi really net me 140rwhp?!?

 

[N8Miller]

the 190 fuel pump will be just fine.
the 10psi of boost could net ya 140 hp, but rule of thumb is 1 psi of boost = 10 hp. it would obviosuly be more if intercooled.
keep the c&l for budget, get the 80 if you can swing it.

 

[Nottoofast50]

yah i think i'm gonna keep the C&L for now get bigger injectors and in the future go to the pro-m and 70mm tb

 

[matm347]

I would suggest a second pump like a T-rex. It's cheap insurance!

HP/Boost depends on the combination, which is why I use the 17psi=twice base HP.
This is the number procharger uses, it does depend on the efficiency of the blower setup.

You are really pushing your fuel system with the power you'll be creating. Fuel rails should be next on your list, followed by larger fuel lines.