what the!!!!??????

vladasap · Jan 6, 2008

a friend of mine owns a 95 cobra with a jlt CAI and a bigger mass air

i used to race him before my HCI swap and he was the perfect match for my car- we were ALWAYS dead even - he cant pull an inch on me n i cant pull an inch on him

well, i did my ported cobra lower and stock upper, ported gt40's and a tfs stage 1...
WE are still dead even - we did 30, 40, 50 n 60mph runs a bunch of times and we are still neck to neck exactly like we were before i did all the work (the only thing i know is wrong is that i have a header leak - thats it!) no vacuum leaks, all bolts are tight, all the supporting mods have been done like the mass air, injectors, fuel pump, afpr n such

why didnt my car gain ANY power ????????

could it be that i need a chip tune n what exactly is it that a chip would do to allow the car make the power that it should ?????

PLEASE HELP $900 spent for 0 gains = not good = im angry

y22kc · Jan 6, 2008

What were your mods before the H/C/I install?

vladasap · Jan 6, 2008

before the HCI i had 4.10s, 24# injectors, 76mm C&L, shorty headers, x-pipe, short shifter and an msd dizee/blaster/9mm wires and an aluminum d/s

i highly doubt thats the 24#'s n the C&L are not sufficient - im almost certain that they are ---- am i wrong?

drakesdad · Jan 6, 2008

vladasap said:
before the HCI i had 4.10s, 24# injectors, 76mm C&L, shorty headers, x-pipe, short shifter and an msd dizee/blaster/9mm wires and an aluminum d/s

i highly doubt thats the 24#'s n the C&L are not sufficient - im almost certain that they are ---- am i wrong?

I run 24's.....MHO is that is not your problem......I would look into getting a tune....you should have noticed a gain.....if your sure everything is together.....dizzy, timing, no vac leaks,......there should have been some gain.....

final5-0 · Jan 6, 2008

Could be so many different things
Could be several little things

Header leaks and small stuff like that certainly won't help so I'd get
all those issues knocked out and done with.

How does it run around town if you are just cruising around ... NOT WOT

I mean ... does it run smooth ... no misses or anything like that

How much spark value at the dizzy are you running

Are you sure you got the correct cal tube for that C&L

Grady

Rock777 · Jan 6, 2008

With the H/C/I, your power will move up in the powerband. What rpms are you shifting at? The extra ~1000rpms is where your peak horsepower falls, it will make quite a difference by shifting higher, probably around 6000ish.

WHITE94COBRA · Jan 6, 2008

Guy's he has no tune, his stock computer is still reading and calibrating for #19 inj, and mass air. It's alllll in the tune. It should run very rough sputter and stall. nevermind my post I just re read your post. You still need a tune though.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Jan 6, 2008

swap the 19's back in, and see what happens, you dont even need 24's with that h/c/i ive ran a very similar combo, and it ran balls out!! very quick car..

Black95GTS · Jan 6, 2008

Definitely work on the header leak, you would be surprised, if you're exhaust doesn't exhale properly your engine won't inhale properly. An engine is just an air pump.

Then you need to get a tune. Further more, you need the 24s in there as well.

Adam

earleys94gt · Jan 6, 2008

Get it tuned and go from there.

vladasap · Jan 7, 2008

well, i bought myself a timing light today and turned the dizzee a few n set the timing at 15
seems like that did change things a bit - the car simply feel faster but i havent had a chance to give her a go with my buddy's cobra to compare n see actual results

as for the tune i decided that i do have to do that since theres almost nothing stock but the tranny and the bottom end so.....
now about the tuning thing - theres a guy who'll adjust my timing and fuel pressure on a dyno for $150
OR
do i have to go all out and get chip burnt for $600?

ahhh tuners! so much $$$

Black95GTS · Jan 7, 2008

I wouldn't just get the timing and FP adjusted. That is an old mentality that doesn't belong in computer controlled cars in my opinion.

Get the chip burnt. You'll get much more HP that way as well. You'll be leaving a ton on the table by using just the timing and fuel pressure.

Adam

ProKiller · Jan 7, 2008

you've already spent $900 and you haven't gained anything. spend another $600 and get the horsepower you should have gotten with the 900.

vladasap · Jan 7, 2008

you convinced me

imma have to wait a week or two to get that cash together n then imma check in with you guys n let you know how it goes

*****btw im completely clueless when it comes to tuning n such so please let me know what i have to look out for - any do's n don't's when it comes these chips or should i tell me tuner what to do n what not to??????
also - we do have that tip n retard when we engage the clutch, now i've heard of ppl who tune the car not to do that but i guess ford did that as a safety to keep the tranny safe and whatnot so i was wondering if that be a good idea to do that

vladasap · Jan 7, 2008

and ROCK777 - i deff did notice that the power band moved up a whole lot

the cam only starts moving the car around 4,000-6,200 while before it used to move at 3,000-5,300

final5-0 · Jan 7, 2008

vladasap said:
well, i bought myself a timing light today and turned the dizzee a few n set the timing at 15
seems like that did change things a bit - the car simply feel faster but i havent had a chance to give her a go with my buddy's cobra to compare n see actual results

as for the tune i decided that i do have to do that since theres almost nothing stock but the tranny and the bottom end so.....
now about the tuning thing - theres a guy who'll adjust my timing and fuel pressure on a dyno for $150
OR
do i have to go all out and get chip burnt for $600?

ahhh tuners! so much $$$

The first thing I would have wanted to know is ..........

What was the dizzy on BEFORE you made the change

I mean ... if it was low like 6 or 8 ...
that is where your missing power was ... or at least ... some of it

I been following this thread and I still have a hard time believing you found
no power gain at WOT conditions with the h/c/i upgrade

I know I know ... that project may have caused some drivability issues
but
If things are even half way close ...
You should have experienced a NOTICEABLE gain in power at WOT

Yes ... a tune will certainly help you after the h/c/i project
but
I just gotta think something else is going on here

A q or two about those heads

Are you certain about their condition or status of good standing

I know they were ported but ... was it done correctly
Are the valves sealing correctly
Are the valves adjusted correctly
Have you got the correct length of push rods

That C&L maf and cal tube

Same stuff you were running before the project
and
Was it running correctly before you did the project

Are you still running the OEM fuel pump

I'll go out on a limb and say you got something like that going on

You just don't upgrade h/c/i without making more power :Word:

Something fishy is going on here

Grady

maximos · Jan 7, 2008

the cam only starts moving the car around 4 said:
Was the cam installed straight up? You could lower your powerband if you advance the cam timing a few degrees.

Don't confuse cam timing with ignition timing either. Ignition timing can be adjusted through your tune. Cam timing is a physical trait of the cam, it's the way the cam itself is oriented when installed.

vladasap · Jan 8, 2008

ill be honest i didnt check where the timing was at before ...which i hate myself for as i only realized that i didnt check it after i was all done --> newbie/idiot mistake

the fuel pump is a 255 walbro so im sure thats not it- well ill tell you honestly it feels like it pulls really solid now after i advanced the timing but surely enough my lady gives me a new problem

after i advanced the timing (15*) the car has very weird hanging idle - at idle its great but the moment i start moving n im about shift a gear the rpms RISE on their on, hang for a few before dropping and another thing thats really weird n is really annoying me is that if the car is in motion - no matter how fast or how slow - the rpms wont drop below 2000 in NEUTRAL - it just sits there as im rolling down a hill or something in neutral **i tried by just having a friend roll it down a hill while im in the car n its NOT IN A GEAR - the car was idling great (900 or so) n then the moment it started moving over a 2,3 mph the the rpms just jumped to 2000 n stayed there until i came to a full stop

vacuum leak maybe????? i just cant think of a thing that would cause the rpms not to drop below 2000 if the car is in motion

please help me resolve that

and maximos im aware of that but thanks either way, n i gotta tell you, i kinda like the power all the way up there =)

vladasap · Jan 8, 2008

I JUST WANT TO GIVE A BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE ON STANGNET FOR HELPING ME OUT WITH ALL THESE QUESTIONS N CONCERNS I'VE BEEN HAVING

you guys really helped me so much with all your input as theres no way i'd be able to figure it all out nor would i have so much money to have a mechanic look at it all
:SNSign:

ps- dont forget the post above please =)

Rock777 · Jan 8, 2008

Mine hangs pretty bad while moving also. It also hangs in between shifts, not quite 2000, but still around 1600-1700, for a few seconds after stopping. I am hoping a tune in the near future will get rid of this. Resetting my idle like talked about on here helps a little. If you haven't seen any of these threads yet, search for "resetting idle" or "hanging idle", might help you some. Good Luck.

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