what to expect from afr, fti, edel perf. 5.0
- Thread starter 96darkhorse
- Start date
Dunno about an FTI cam, as there are too many variables to guess the HP. One FTI combo might make 290 rwhp while another might make 320 rwhp.
I CAN tell you this, though. There is a guy on Corral who has AFR 165's and a Comp Cams XE270HR cam and he makes 312 rwhp. And that's with a Cobra intake, he doesn't even have a Performer!
I CAN tell you this, though. There is a guy on Corral who has AFR 165's and a Comp Cams XE270HR cam and he makes 312 rwhp. And that's with a Cobra intake, he doesn't even have a Performer!
yellow5.0cobra
Founding Member
That is a question that can not be answered, at least not without more details. The beauty in that combo is that it can be/make whatever you want. You will be slightly limited with the regualr performer in terms of powerband range, but that's not a bad thing. If you want a nice subtle daily driver, then it might make power at around 5300-5500 and make probably between 270-300 to the wheels. If you want to go one the wild side you could have it scream and peak around 6300-6500 with a performer RPM. Redline has more to do with the shortblock than the top end pakcage on it. With these parts it will actually rev and make power to say 6000+ depending on the intake and cam specs. Do NOT get hung up on peak RWHP numbers, they really don't mean much. You want to make as much power in the rpm range your car will mostly be in based on shift points and tranny gear ratios. 3XXrwhp is nice for bragging rights at the bench races... but trust me you'd rather have a car that is faster on the street and track than to have some nice rwhp number to spit out to your friends when they ask... I'd rather have my car with 290rwhp that will outrun a 300+rwhp and lighter car at the track/street, but that's me and that's where I drive the car, not on the dyno.
What kind of setup do you want? What's the car's weight? What rear gears are you willing to go with? These are all questions you need to ask yourself first, then your questions will get more accurate answers.
What kind of setup do you want? What's the car's weight? What rear gears are you willing to go with? These are all questions you need to ask yourself first, then your questions will get more accurate answers.
I'm kinda close to what you are asking about.
I've replaced the stock tb, maf, and dialed in the fuel with my Tweecer which makes my sig a bit outdated.
The car pulls a lot harder from mid range to 6k or so now with the new parts so the numbers are most likely a bit higher but I have not able to get back to the dyno for some new pulls.
The dyno pull in the sig was posted a while back if you want to take a look.
Later
Grady
I've replaced the stock tb, maf, and dialed in the fuel with my Tweecer which makes my sig a bit outdated.
The car pulls a lot harder from mid range to 6k or so now with the new parts so the numbers are most likely a bit higher but I have not able to get back to the dyno for some new pulls.
The dyno pull in the sig was posted a while back if you want to take a look.
Later
Grady
The Hitman
Founding Member
tell him you want an nmra competitive cam 
ad get a custom dyno tune and enjoy a fast car.
Ed can make some nasty power, i just think alot of people dont ask for the right things when they call him for a grind.....same with any company that does custom grinds.
one preson calls
"i want a good cam that will make torque and that will be opk with my 95 computer"
this person gets descent numbers and say a 218/226 on like a 113 lsa
i call
"yes, i want a rowdy cam to make as much power as possible, i am not worried about driveability."
I get a nasty grind with a tighter lsa and big duration that screams.
ad get a custom dyno tune and enjoy a fast car.
Ed can make some nasty power, i just think alot of people dont ask for the right things when they call him for a grind.....same with any company that does custom grinds.
one preson calls
"i want a good cam that will make torque and that will be opk with my 95 computer"
this person gets descent numbers and say a 218/226 on like a 113 lsa
i call
"yes, i want a rowdy cam to make as much power as possible, i am not worried about driveability."
I get a nasty grind with a tighter lsa and big duration that screams.
Killercanary said:
IN Italian Accent
If I was you, Id listen to Paul...He knows what's best for you!
RC
The Hitman
Founding Member
I told Ed I wanted a power cam that could possibly put me in the 12's with what mods I'm soon to be getting (AFR's Edel 5.0 that stuff). I did say that I wanted some street drivability.. but if that wasn't possible.. Power took Number 1.
Paul,
I don't think it's fair to talk about that 312 rwhp car without knowing what he ran at the track. I think the statements you made were a bit premature without having track times to go by, because for all we know he might run a 12.10 or he might run a 13.10
When I asked if I should go FTI or stick with my cam, tmoss and several other guys said to leave the cam b/c of the curve on Jaden's dyno graph, so I don't think he's doing too shabby. And I'll actually have a few HP on him due to different mods.
I'm *not* saying the FTI cam wouldn't make more overall power, but considering I'd have to pay an extra $325 for the cam + an extra $200-$300 for the cam install...no thanks, I'll leave mine. $500-$600 isn't worth picking up a few extra HP to me, my pockets aren't that deep brotha.
I don't think it's fair to talk about that 312 rwhp car without knowing what he ran at the track. I think the statements you made were a bit premature without having track times to go by, because for all we know he might run a 12.10 or he might run a 13.10
When I asked if I should go FTI or stick with my cam, tmoss and several other guys said to leave the cam b/c of the curve on Jaden's dyno graph, so I don't think he's doing too shabby. And I'll actually have a few HP on him due to different mods.
I'm *not* saying the FTI cam wouldn't make more overall power, but considering I'd have to pay an extra $325 for the cam + an extra $200-$300 for the cam install...no thanks, I'll leave mine. $500-$600 isn't worth picking up a few extra HP to me, my pockets aren't that deep brotha.
yellow5.0cobra
Founding Member
LOL!
Im going to break the bank once I order my new setup crap...
The bill will be just about $7,000.
Im going to break the bank once I order my new setup crap...
The bill will be just about $7,000.
Jordan, I didn't mean that post to be a direct attack on his numbers, it was more for illustration than anything. His numbers are impressive, no doubt about it. Those numbers in his sig and that you listed are STD, but his SAE are still good at 305/327. My point was that there are several H/C/I cars running around with 300+rwhp in their sigs, but their times are not reflecting it. This goes back to my point... do you want a combo that can accelerate a big metal drum quickly... or your car? I'd take the second.
Why will the cam swap cost you $500??? Did you already have the cam? Is so, I probably wouldn't have changed it either, at least not until I see how it performs. And as for saying you'll have a few more HP on him... best of luck to you, but that's a pretty bold statement that may be "premature" I thought for sure I'd see 300+rwhp when I hit the dyno... but it wasn't to be.
Why will the cam swap cost you $500??? Did you already have the cam? Is so, I probably wouldn't have changed it either, at least not until I see how it performs. And as for saying you'll have a few more HP on him... best of luck to you, but that's a pretty bold statement that may be "premature" I thought for sure I'd see 300+rwhp when I hit the dyno... but it wasn't to be.
Averages guys - and in my book it's the torque curve that counts most in the usable rpm band, let the HP fall where it may. Paul is a good example of that line of thinking. I got "educated" about 20 years ago in that regard by a guy named John Lingenfelter - God rest his soul.
Killercanary said:
That I agree with...but is it the combo, or the driver? Take HairyCanary for example. His best time with the AFR/FTI combo was 13.4 IIRC. Now, that's 1.1 seconds slower than your combo, and he even has a light(er) coupe. Would it be correct to say that his combo won't allow for more, or that he needs more practice at the track? I would guess the latter, unless his car has issues of some sort. I take people's track times with a grain of salt until they've been back to the track several times and practiced, like yourself. Hardly anyone runs their best time the first time out at the track, agreed? You said your first run after installing the AFR combo netted you a 13.4 or 13.6 right? You had to do some fine tuning and practice your shift points, etc...so track times are pretty worthless if the person isn't experienced at the track.
Just trying to make some points.
Yeah I already have that cam. I'm extremely happy with it--I couldn't ask for much more out of a streetable OTS cam. If I wanted to go to an FTI cam at this point, here's what I'd be looking at:
FTI cam - $325
Cam install - ~$300
Chip or TwEECer (assuming Ed didn't grind a 114 LSA; I've heard sometimes he will do that with the SN95 computer in mind but I know you had to tune yours) - $350-$550
Total = ridiculous
Agreed, it may be premature since I haven't hit the dyno, but it's an educated guess that I made by comparing his mod list to mine. 2 examples that come to mind are that he has a stock Cobra intake and I have a Performer, and he is using 1.6's while I'm going to use 1.7's and was told that the AFR's should like that extra lift. Assuming our shortblocks are in similar condition, I have reason to believe that my mods will give me a bit of an edge.
It's all in fun though. I know I'm going to be tickled pink with those AFR's no matter what happens with the HP numbers. Whether I made 280 or 330, I'll still have one hellaciously fun street car!
SAE dyno gearing and raceweight tell the whole story of what a car can do.
i dont really look at peoples 1/4 mile times that much because its a worthless comparison. half the people are bad drivers and many run at high density altitudes
seriously if i were to look around at poeples sig and pick my setups from their ETs there would be almost no reason to get heads cam. I know better than this. I run what i do on 246 rw and I know for sure my car would fly with the rwhp that these guys make.
so call me a dyno racer, but thats where its at.
i dont really look at peoples 1/4 mile times that much because its a worthless comparison. half the people are bad drivers and many run at high density altitudes
seriously if i were to look around at poeples sig and pick my setups from their ETs there would be almost no reason to get heads cam. I know better than this. I run what i do on 246 rw and I know for sure my car would fly with the rwhp that these guys make.
so call me a dyno racer, but thats where its at.
Rootus
Officially Addicted
Killercanary said:
im debating between 373 and 390 gears...my car is driven mostly on teh street with the usual highway driving...i dont care about where my rpms are or how much gas ill waste so i dont mind any of these gearings. ive never taken my car to the track but that doesent mean i wont in the future.... but my car is a street driver so im looking for the best street setup i can find...how far would i be able to rev with the performer?? where would i stop making power with that intake??
