what to trap 110+ n/a?

autumn_again · May 21, 2009

i am wondering what do i need to do to trap around 110 or so in the 1/4. best i've trapped so far is 106.

gaining 4 mph shouldn't be too hard, but when i look for examples on lists, people are trapping like 109 with 8 psi with a blower.

i am contemplating doing 4.56s, and long tubes. and a set of hot rod cams.

i'm thinking i should gain about 2-3 mph with the 4.56s, maybe 1.5 with the long tubes. and really confused on the cams.

i'd like to pull off low 12s. my track is a little above sea level.

what other things could i do to see surefire gains? debating underdrive pullies, don't wanna do cmdps, would like to do a 1 piece driveshaft.

any other ideas?

V8JamesGT · May 22, 2009

def do the underdrive pullies and aluminum driveshaft if your staying N/A

chad9350 · May 22, 2009

YouTube - chad05gt 12.60 HRP July '08

YouTube - 2005 Mustang GT 12.61

12.61 @ 110

12.60 @ 108

before heads, cams, injectors.... July in Houston... not great weather, on stockers w/ dr's

cycosarge · May 22, 2009

Dude.... 4.56's ar WAY too steep for the power you are running. Unless you are running a 32 inch tall slick or something in an all out race car. I am running high 11's on a street tune, street radial 20 inch tires and a 3.55 gear. If I were you, depending on HP, I wouldn't go any taller than a 3.73.

chad9350 · May 22, 2009

cycosarge said:
Dude.... 4.56's ar WAY too steep for the power you are running. Unless you are running a 32 inch tall slick or something in an all out race car. I am running high 11's on a street tune, street radial 20 inch tires and a 3.55 gear. If I were you, depending on HP, I wouldn't go any taller than a 3.73.

n/a 4.56's w/ 27" tall tire cross traps at 6500RPM's in 4th gear 1:1... Perfect.

These n/a cammed motors w/ 373's dont have the torque... high 11's w/ KB.... and Im supposed to take advice from you?

You are less that .4 better that me, "bigger" cams......... w/ 150+ hp/200+tq MORE... you, sir, should have gotten a 2.8.... 2 of them! LOL

Thats just funny...., and, kinda sad

I would love to see this vid/slip of the 11sec run... I honestly dont believe YOU could do it... even in YOUR car!!

autumn_again · May 23, 2009

cycosarge said:
Dude.... 4.56's ar WAY too steep for the power you are running. Unless you are running a 32 inch tall slick or something in an all out race car. I am running high 11's on a street tune, street radial 20 inch tires and a 3.55 gear. If I were you, depending on HP, I wouldn't go any taller than a 3.73.

i've got a 28 inch tall tire on the back. 4.10s it bogs down unless i launch the living piss out of it. and i'm also about 400 or so rpms lower then i want to be at the traps right now.

i've got 4.10s now, why would i go with 3.73s.

+ in the winter the car was fun on the street with them being colder. with the warmer ground temps now i can't really spin em in like 2nd and 3rd anymore on the street. i can chirp 2nd.

i know racings all about traction, but i like to have a little fun driving my car.

its all about having a set up that works. having a game plan when you start spending money on the car so you know you dont buy **** that your going to end up taking off later on.

chad, your full weight right? what exactly is done to the car in your mid 12 runs?

i plan on staying n/a for quite a while, if not my whole time with the car. i'd like a blower, but its too much of a me too thing. and theres alot of people running crap times with a power adder. times that N/A cars are capable of.

cycosarge · May 23, 2009

chad9350 said:
n/a 4.56's w/ 27" tall tire cross traps at 6500RPM's in 4th gear 1:1... Perfect.

These n/a cammed motors w/ 373's dont have the torque... high 11's w/ KB.... and Im supposed to take advice from you?

You are less that .4 better that me, "bigger" cams......... w/ 150+ hp/200+tq MORE... you, sir, should have gotten a 2.8.... 2 of them! LOL

Thats just funny...., and, kinda sad

I would love to see this vid/slip of the 11sec run... I honestly dont believe YOU could do it... even in YOUR car!!

What's your problem assclown?!

I ran those numbers on 20 inch STREET TIRES. I'm sure that with good tires, traction, and some more weight reduction off the nose, I will be in the 10's. Also, why the hell would you tell this guys to drop to 4.56 gears and then barely get out of his own way on the street? Maybe someone here is confused on the concept of this post, but in all seriousness, who cares what you think anyway? I sure don't.

As far as the 4:10 gears, I mean... great, go for it. It wasn't necessary, but more power to you. I don't have any issues with you, but don't flame post me for expressing my opinion.

autumn_again · May 23, 2009

cycosarge said:
What's your problem assclown?!

I ran those numbers on 20 inch STREET TIRES. I'm sure that with good tires, traction, and some more weight reduction off the nose, I will be in the 10's. Also, why the hell would you tell this guys to drop to 4.56 gears and then barely get out of his own way on the street? Maybe someone here is confused on the concept of this post, but in all seriousness, who cares what you think anyway? I sure don't.

As far as the 4:10 gears, I mean... great, go for it. It wasn't necessary, but more power to you. I don't have any issues with you, but don't flame post me for expressing my opinion.

what was your mph on your 11 second pass?

i dont see why it wouldnt get out of its own way with 4.56s on the street. first will be useless, but its not much good with 4.10s anyway.

cycosarge · May 23, 2009

autumn_again said:
what was your mph on your 11 second pass?

i dont see why it wouldnt get out of its own way with 4.56s on the street. first will be useless, but its not much good with 4.10s anyway.

122.7 mph.... slips a little off the line. I should be in the mid to high tens with good traction. Anyway, I have a 1968 Mustang with 29.5 inch tall DR's and a 4.56 rear gear. I am running at 4000 RPM on the road to work.... not what I would call a daily driver.... even with overdrive, I couldn't imagine running 3000-3500 rpm cruising down the highway, that's retarded. Also, it depends on the power you're making, I switch from a 4.56 to a 4.11 gear on the Mustang with a set of slicks and dropped my ET from 8.76 to 8.65. More than a tenth and she ran smoother to boot. It all depends on your combination. I run my '09 to work everyday, that's the reason for the street gears and tires.

autumn_again · May 23, 2009

where does your 68 make the most power? from what i've noticed these cars don't really have any kinda grunt low end, but they like to rev. thats why i am thinking of going with a set of diff gears.

i drive on the highway everyday, its not a far trip, only about 10 miles there, and 10 back, and when using cruise control doing around 75 its at like 2800 rpms, still averaging around 22 i believe. didn't buy the car for gas mileage, so thats good enough for me.

cycosarge · May 24, 2009

autumn_again said:
where does your 68 make the most power? from what i've noticed these cars don't really have any kinda grunt low end, but they like to rev. thats why i am thinking of going with a set of diff gears.

i drive on the highway everyday, its not a far trip, only about 10 miles there, and 10 back, and when using cruise control doing around 75 its at like 2800 rpms, still averaging around 22 i believe. didn't buy the car for gas mileage, so thats good enough for me.

Well, my '68 has a 418 ci small block and makes 1248 HP on nitrous. Torque is in the 1300 foot pounds range at 3500 RPM when I launch.

I am getting 18.5 MPG in the '09.... I must have a heavy foot or something.

chad9350 · May 25, 2009

autumn_again said:
what was your mph on your 11 second pass?

i dont see why it wouldnt get out of its own way with 4.56s on the street. first will be useless, but its not much good with 4.10s anyway.

Shift out of first at about 35mph, far from useless...

btw, I thought you wanted n/a advice/opinions?

I dont do anything but say what Ive experienced; I dont repeat what Ive read/heard; and sometimes it isnt what some folks want/wish to hear; for that Im not sorry.

You want truth, and save a little coin and time and downtime, pm me. If not, best of luck.

Believe me, I wish I didnt know so much about what does and DOSENT work n/a w/ these cars! Been twisting wrenches and breaking/changing setups on this car for a couple years... and would you believe that this is all so that Ill be set up to run FI!

btw cycosarge; that was not a flame; I was just restating the obvious ( others thought it, I just typed )

cycosarge · May 25, 2009

chad9350 said:
btw cycosarge; that was not a flame; I was just restating the obvious ( others thought it, I just typed )

Word...

I'm sure we can get along and spead the knowledge. I have been building cars for 25 years. I have tons of cool stuff under my belt, lots of Mustangs, a few Corvettes and some misc stuff like a Chevelle and a Trans Am. Anyway, glad we're on the same team.

bynumj · May 27, 2009

my 2 cents

I recently went from 3.31 to 4.10 gears on my 2007 GT 5-speed. It was the best mod I made until I put my supercharger on this weekend. I was a little disappointed when I first put the new gear in, I wished that I would have went with the 4.30 or even 4.56 gear. However, I knew that I was going with FI and wanted to play it safe with a compromise gear (4.10).

If I was keeping the car n/a, I would have went to 4.30 and quite possibly the 4.56 gears. I keep hearing people say that 1st gear becomes unusable but this is untrue IMO. You will lose approximately 1.2 mph for every change in rear gear for first gear @ 3500. Going from the stock 3.31 to a 4.10 will change your speed in first @ 3500 from 25 mph to 20.5 mph (assuming the stock tire height of 27.2 inches).

I am running 275/35/20 tires (27.6 inches) in the rear which made the 3.31 unusable when comparing them to the 4.10 gear. For me, I think the 4.10 makes first gear more usable overall. I gained almost 0.4 in the quarter with the new gear alone.

In addition, comparing the gears on these cars to other years of mustangs is not comparing apples to apples. The transmissions are geared completely different.

With that said, if you are trying to maximize your fuel efficiency on the highway, buy a ford focus. Put the gear in the rear of your mustang that ford should have put in there from the start, a 4.10 with the 4.30/4.56 upgrade option. Of course, I am speaking from experience with a 5-speed and an automatic may be a completely different story.

I have attached a gear chart that will give you the theoretical values for different tire, transmission, and gear setups. You can change the .txt to .xls or use the open with excel option.

autumn_again · May 28, 2009

chad9350 said:
Shift out of first at about 35mph, far from useless...

btw, I thought you wanted n/a advice/opinions?

I dont do anything but say what Ive experienced; I dont repeat what Ive read/heard; and sometimes it isnt what some folks want/wish to hear; for that Im not sorry.

You want truth, and save a little coin and time and downtime, pm me. If not, best of luck.

Believe me, I wish I didnt know so much about what does and DOSENT work n/a w/ these cars! Been twisting wrenches and breaking/changing setups on this car for a couple years... and would you believe that this is all so that Ill be set up to run FI!

btw cycosarge; that was not a flame; I was just restating the obvious ( others thought it, I just typed )

by useless. i meant short as hell. because with 4.10s on the street i can be first in line at a traffic light and before the car crosses the road i am in second. which is not a problem with me. if it were i wouldn't be considering 4.56s. i realize it would rev quicker.

i do want advice. i asked a few questions a few posts up, don't know if you saw em. the main one i wanted to know is if you were still full weight.

autumn_again · May 28, 2009

bynumj said:
I recently went from 3.31 to 4.10 gears on my 2007 GT 5-speed. It was the best mod I made until I put my supercharger on this weekend. I was a little disappointed when I first put the new gear in, I wished that I would have went with the 4.30 or even 4.56 gear. However, I knew that I was going with FI and wanted to play it safe with a compromise gear (4.10).

If I was keeping the car n/a, I would have went to 4.30 and quite possibly the 4.56 gears. I keep hearing people say that 1st gear becomes unusable but this is untrue IMO. You will lose approximately 1.2 mph for every change in rear gear for first gear @ 3500. Going from the stock 3.31 to a 4.10 will change your speed in first @ 3500 from 25 mph to 20.5 mph (assuming the stock tire height of 27.2 inches).

I am running 275/35/20 tires (27.6 inches) in the rear which made the 3.31 unusable when comparing them to the 4.10 gear. For me, I think the 4.10 makes first gear more usable overall. I gained almost 0.4 in the quarter with the new gear alone.

In addition, comparing the gears on these cars to other years of mustangs is not comparing apples to apples. The transmissions are geared completely different.

With that said, if you are trying to maximize your fuel efficiency on the highway, buy a ford focus. Put the gear in the rear of your mustang that ford should have put in there from the start, a 4.10 with the 4.30/4.56 upgrade option. Of course, I am speaking from experience with a 5-speed and an automatic may be a completely different story.

I have attached a gear chart that will give you the theoretical values for different tire, transmission, and gear setups. You can change the .txt to .xls or use the open with excel option.

i already stated i don't care about gas mileage. if i did i'd be driving a 2010 fusion hybrid right now. i bought the car to enjoy driving. my last stang got like 10 mpg, anythings better then that.

i've got 4.10s already. i am looking to upgrade to the 4.56s. i have intentions of F/I, but not the money. so i am staying N/A and trying to maximize performance.

bynumj · May 28, 2009

autumn_again said:
i already stated i don't care about gas mileage. if i did i'd be driving a 2010 fusion hybrid right now. i bought the car to enjoy driving. my last stang got like 10 mpg, anythings better then that.

i've got 4.10s already. i am looking to upgrade to the 4.56s. i have intentions of F/I, but not the money. so i am staying N/A and trying to maximize performance.

Sorry, I didn't look at your sig.

By the time you put long tubes, cams, pullies, and new gears, you will be close to the cost of a non-cooled SC. Throw on the V3 from brenspeed for $3400 and you will be right there. I think you will be happier waiting for the SC if you want to go that way in the future.

autumn_again · May 28, 2009

bynumj said:
Sorry, I didn't look at your sig.

By the time you put long tubes, cams, pullies, and new gears, you will be close to the cost of a non-cooled SC. Throw on the V3 from brenspeed for $3400 and you will be right there. I think you will be happier waiting for the SC if you want to go that way in the future.

not a big fan of centrifugal chargers. if i were to get one it'd have to be a twin screw. love the sound, look, and power they produce.

+ everyones got a blower on their car almost. and not alot of them are running good times. i know thats user error, but i basically wanna be able to say "yeah, i did this ___ time, with no forced induction."

kid i know thru a 75 shot on his gt, got long tubes, 410s, cai, dynotuned. etc. and was happy with a 13.1. the cars capable of so much more. i should be able to run that with the set up i currently have on a good prepped track.

it just amazes me how much potential people leave on the table. i want to get the maximum performance out of any set up i use.

what to trap 110+ n/a?

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