What will too much advance do?

A single 16" S-blade fan will work wonders IMO. A 16" fan will pull more air than two 8" fans and in some cases the dual 8" fans will suck more amps than the 16" will. I'm running a 16" 3300cfm zirgo fan with a 2 row Northern aluminum radiator on my 351w and it cools very well. One thing many forget to do when installing a new radiator is to flush the coolant system completely. Chances are you have some gunk plugging up your new aluminum radiator and it happens more than most think. Hot tanking your block will not always remove the debris in the coolant passages. Too much advance will only cause pinging/detonation and won't make it run hotter. Too little of advance will cause it to run warmer, as explained above in a previous reply. Try draining your coolant system and have it flushed and see if it helps. A coolant flush isn't too high compared to all the headaches a plugged radiator can cause.
 
jbuening said:
A single 16" S-blade fan will work wonders IMO. A 16" fan will pull more air than two 8" fans and in some cases the dual 8" fans will suck more amps than the 16" will. I'm running a 16" 3300cfm zirgo fan with a 2 row Northern aluminum radiator on my 351w and it cools very well. One thing many forget to do when installing a new radiator is to flush the coolant system completely. Chances are you have some gunk plugging up your new aluminum radiator and it happens more than most think. Hot tanking your block will not always remove the debris in the coolant passages. Too much advance will only cause pinging/detonation and won't make it run hotter. Too little of advance will cause it to run warmer, as explained above in a previous reply. Try draining your coolant system and have it flushed and see if it helps. A coolant flush isn't too high compared to all the headaches a plugged radiator can cause.
the only think i can think of next is another 16" fan with more cfm.

The bloack was all hot tanked,machined etc,so im ruling that out.

I flushed the cooling system a few times as well as back washed the radiator.

Im doing Route 66 this weekend,so ill see how it goes.

Anybody on the west coast,Route 66 brings in about 2000 cars,all pre 74, in San Bernadino :banana:
 
I actually agree with DHearn as well.

Are you running the stock 65 17" radiator? If so, it's not nearly enough.

If it is the 17, you can put all the fans on it you want, and it isn't going to help much.

The pusher isn't helping at all. I agree on the duals.

The new motor will run pretty hot so 205-210 is going to be ok on idle.

I preach this one constantly. For the high output 65-66 cars, you should at least go to the 67-68 bolt in 20". The extreme route it to weld in a 67-68 core support, use the 68 saddle brackets and put the 24" radiator in there. Dual flex-a-lite fans and walla! That's what I did!

I sat for 45 minutes at the Knott's show waiting to leave and it didn't budge.
 
iskwezm said:
Also I dont run coolant,just 40* Below and straight water.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it hard on the system to run straight water? An antifreeze/coolant mix has a lot of anti-corrosion properties, while straight water is highly corrosive, right?

According to "Prestone.com" they recommend no less than 50% antifreeze, and no more than 70% antifreeze.

Wayne.
 
whwright said:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it hard on the system to run straight water? An antifreeze/coolant mix has a lot of anti-corrosion properties, while straight water is highly corrosive, right?

According to "Prestone.com" they recommend no less than 50% antifreeze, and no more than 70% antifreeze.

Wayne.
the 40* additive makes up for the coolant.
 
mdjay said:
I actually agree with DHearn as well.

Are you running the stock 65 17" radiator? If so, it's not nearly enough.

If it is the 17, you can put all the fans on it you want, and it isn't going to help much.

The pusher isn't helping at all. I agree on the duals.

The new motor will run pretty hot so 205-210 is going to be ok on idle.

I preach this one constantly. For the high output 65-66 cars, you should at least go to the 67-68 bolt in 20". The extreme route it to weld in a 67-68 core support, use the 68 saddle brackets and put the 24" radiator in there. Dual flex-a-lite fans and walla! That's what I did!

I sat for 45 minutes at the Knott's show waiting to leave and it didn't budge.

Its the stock size,but its the 2 row be cool and it worked great on my .060 289.I can cruise the Route 66 streets at 10 miles an hour in 100* heat and it woudnt get past 220*

I have tried it with the puller fan only and it ran hotter then with both fans.The pusher is helping with air movement across the core when in traffic.

Wish i would have known i was gonna have this problem,i would have done a 5.0 radiator or the new core supprt swap. :(
 
iskwezm said:
Its the stock size,but its the 2 row be cool and it worked great on my .060 289.I can cruise the Route 66 streets at 10 miles an hour in 100* heat and it woudnt get past 220*

I have tried it with the puller fan only and it ran hotter then with both fans.The pusher is helping with air movement across the core when in traffic.

Wish i would have known i was gonna have this problem,i would have done a 5.0 radiator or the new core supprt swap. :(

It's still different. You are creating way more heat due to the increase in performance!

It's all about air and water volume. Think of it like trying to blow air through a straw. Then blow through something large like a paper towel roll. You capture way more air with a larger radiator instead of it finding somewhere else to go, since it can't all get through. Even when you are not being conservative, you shouldn't really ever go past 205-210 with a good set-up. It should cool right off at a steady 55 mph.

The pusher is actually blocking the air when you go to highway speeds. I know some here have successfully run the pushers, but here in Vegas, I haven't had any luck with them. I would get a little more idle time, but the car would not want to cool off completely once it hit open road. You're better off with more cfm on the other side.