Whats a good company for suspention kits?

T3AL

New Member
Oct 17, 2004
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Iam looking at trick one there pirty cheap and it comes with C/C plates, sway bars, tokico shocks and struts, spring isolators, offset rack bushings, crisscross SFC, boxed upper and lower control arms. all that for 1195$

add 319$ to that and i cna get a panhard bar but i dont think i will be needing that.
 
I would definatly go with MM.
CC plates are a great place to start. You can add a bunch of positive caster which helps the mustangs pathetic camber curve. Then, adding some negative camber will really help ultimate cornering power.
To make a mustang handle well, you need to limit front suspension travel. Go with the stiffest front springs you can stand on the street. Then, get a shock/struts to match them.
If you havn't done the 5.0 brake swap, that should be done before struts.
When you really start looking for the best performance, you will want to go with coil overs, an MM K member and a panhard bar with torque arm, but that is rather advanced and will require some tuning (corner weighing, rebound rates, ect)
 
Iam gonna order the MM svo disk brake package(svo front disk with baer rear disk), Prolly end up getting 2.3 eibach springs, trick one cc plates, tokio shocks and struts, gt sway bars steeda lower/upper control arms and to top it off with energy suspention bushing kit.

motor, brakes suspention all planed out, then get a LSD(whats a good cheap company for this?).

and top it off with eather the 15x8 front 15x10 rear 630(?) series crager rims or 17x10 saleen rims.

maybe teh saleen rims cause iam getting the saleen GFX kit from cervines.

what rims would look good in a 16 or 17in on a titanum silver coupe.
 
You might want to do some research on the mustang rear suspension. Despite what steeda and other "mustang performance" companies say, you don't want stiffer bushings in the upper control arms. The mustang in stock form has a bad problem with snap oversteer as a result of suspsension bind. Putting stiffer bushings in the upper control arms makes the binding problem worse and will create new problems. The design of the rear suspension requires a change in the length of the upper control arms which is not possible. Instead, the bushing deform.
What I would do is get some rear lower control arms with a sherical bearing in one end (but not both). This allows the proper articulation of the control arm without inducing binding. Leave your stock 4cyl upper control arms alone. According to my mustang handling book, they are the optimal stiffness to prevent bind and control movement. Then, as you get more money for mods, you can spring for a pan hard bar. That may be the single biggest improvment for the buck on the mustangs rear suspension.
Then, when you realize the mustang doesn't handle for crap, but you already have to much invested, so it to late anyway, you can buy a torque arm which will allow you to remove the upper control arms completly. :D
 
thanks for the info...so just get new stock upper control arms?

torque arm? refresh my memory plz to much beer make memory foggy.

sherical bearing does it matter which end they go on?
 
Ok after searching and thinking(need ice my brain is overheating), iam just gonna get the trick one set up, then a set ofstiff but cheap springs and try cutting the springs to get the desired drop in ride hight, test them then the trick one springs and see which handels better.