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Whats the ideal engine temp for a slightly modified 302?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackFox5.0
  • Start date Start date Jan 15, 2004
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BlackFox5.0

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#1
  • Jan 15, 2004
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I have a 180 T-stat in my car, and it doesn't give me any heat when it's cold, and I need to change it as i have a leak there, so I was thinking about putting a 200* T-stat in, will this be too hot in the summer? I don't want to run into detonation problems, or hurt performance, but I hate not having heat at all. (I get luke warm heat at 180* on my autometer)
 

Trboh22

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#2
  • Jan 15, 2004
  • #2
BlackFox5.0 said:
I have a 180 T-stat in my car, and it doesn't give me any heat when it's cold, and I need to change it as i have a leak there, so I was thinking about putting a 200* T-stat in, will this be too hot in the summer? I don't want to run into detonation problems, or hurt performance, but I hate not having heat at all. (I get luke warm heat at 180* on my autometer)
Click to expand...

I would think an OEM Temp 195 would be best, if you do change it though I would think about a Mr. Gasket for a replacement. They are like $10.00, but seem to work a bit better.
 

Gearbanger 101

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#3
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Well, the stock one is 192*, I believe. So if you were not getting enough heat with that, I'd say you had a problem. I'm not sure what you mean by saying that you've "got a leak there", but if you're low on antifreeze, it’ll give you less than spectacular heat. What you could do is block off the radiator with a piece of cardboard for the winter, which is what a lot of us do.
 

BlackFox5.0

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#4
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I thought stock was 210* for some reason

I'll go with a 190* something, whatever I can find thats closest to stock.
 

BlackFox5.0

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#5
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Will I lose power with a 192* t-stat in the summer as compared to a 180*?
 

ECU5.0

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#6
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im running a 180 thermostat and my heat isnt worth a crap when its cold either...unless i get on it and than it goes away. why is that? i dont have a leak in the heater core...just replaced it two weeks ago
 

BlackFox5.0

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#7
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Beacause it's just too cold, which is why I'm steping it up back to stock
 

ECU5.0

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#8
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that really sucks. ive got a friend that runs a 180 in his supercharged saleen and his car runs cooler than mine and his heat works. go figure
 

ECU5.0

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#9
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i would do the cardboard thing...but i was just having problems with my car running hot (near the top of the R on the stock gauge) and it stopped just as quickly as it started.
 
8

89tang

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#10
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ECU5.0 said:
i would do the cardboard thing...but i was just having problems with my car running hot (near the top of the R on the stock gauge) and it stopped just as quickly as it started.
Click to expand...

I'd say you better get ya a new gauge. The stock gauges suck, my stock gauge read that the car was running 175 degrees all the time after warmup. Got a aftermarket gauge it was actually running 210 to 215 an it would climb higher if i was getting on it.

Can't help on your heating problems though, mine doesn't have heat since i don't drive it in the winter.
 

ECU5.0

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#11
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hmm....maybe i should invest in that. i had to replace to sending unit when i bought the car...and thats when i realized my car was overheating because of a busted thermostat and a leaking heater core. definetly gonna look into a gauge
 

HISSIN50

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#12
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i fully agree wih TRBOH. the mr G is nice and it opens fully sooner (i ran about 10* cooler with a 180 mr g than i did with parts store 180. it opens fully faster and i bet it flows better. hold a mr g side by side with a cheapie. big difference)

stock is either 192 or 195.

do get a new (another) gauge. mine is just like 89tangs. always thought i was ok, but had some detonation with a/c on (110* here in summer). i was running at 220 ish, but stocker read at half (200 or under)not cool. my stocker reads 10-40 degrees cooler than the aftermarket gauge. and that was with a new sender. the gauge just sucks.

i like the cardboard idea for winter.

someone tell me how this sounds. i know other cars have a valve that opens to allow coolant to flow throught the heater core when the heater is on. otherwise, the valve is closed and no/little coolant flows. i don t know if stang use the same thing, but if so, i would check that valve.
good luck.
 
F

Fox 5.0

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#13
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cardboard idea??? im confused...
 

nito88stang

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#14
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anyone know who carries the mr gasket thermostats?
 

runningmole

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#15
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Fox 5.0 said:
cardboard idea??? im confused...
Click to expand...


Block part of your radiator w/ a piece of cardboard, to reduce the amount of air that flows across to cool the coolant. Start w/ covering maybe 1/4 of your radiator. Then go from there. Don't cover too much though, will get really hot. I put the card board on the top 1/4 of my radiator, and folded it over the top of the rad so it wouldn't fall down and block even more air flow. That was w/ my alum radiator. I eventually put my stock radiator back in. Much better. I also have a 195 t-stat and new sending unit (would be MUCH better w/ an aftermarket gauge though.)

Nitto-I've seen the Mr Gasket t-stats in the Summit catalog. 10 bills.
 

stangbear427

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#16
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #16
BlackFox5.0 said:
I have a 180 T-stat in my car, and it doesn't give me any heat when it's cold, and I need to change it as i have a leak there, so I was thinking about putting a 200* T-stat in, will this be too hot in the summer? I don't want to run into detonation problems, or hurt performance, but I hate not having heat at all. (I get luke warm heat at 180* on my autometer)
Click to expand...
To answer the thread Q: "Whats the ideal engine temp for a slightly modified 302?" the ideal is 192*, just like a bone stock 302. A 200* t-stat would be too hot any time of year. It may be a good choice if you live in Alaska. All you need is a Motorcraft stock replacement 192* available at any Ford dealer for @$12. That's the temperature it was designed to run at. If you need to use a colder t-stat than stock in order to have good performance, then something is wrong. Ideally, the perfect performance scenario is cold fuel, cold air, and a hot engine. A 195* t-stat would probably be fine, unless you live so far south that you could throw a rock and hit Mexico- but even then you don't need a 180* t-stat to keep from overheating, most people find just using a flex fan or the cop spec fan clutch will keep it in check (again- unless something else is wrong) If you are leaking fluid anywhere, that is bad and needs to be addressed. A coolant leak doesn't have too be too extravagant to cause problems in several areas- including how well your heater works.
 

5spd GT

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#17
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192 is stock...
 

HISSIN50

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#18
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #18
stangbear427 said:
A 195* t-stat would probably be fine, unless you live so far south that you could throw a rock and hit Mexico- but even then you don't need a 180* t-stat to keep from overheating, most people find just using a flex fan or the cop spec fan clutch will keep it in check QUOTE]

stangbear, good stuff, as usual, from you. however, i beg to differ a little bit, since you replied about not even needing a 180 in hot southern climates.
the previous owner of my stang replaced everything with stock stuff (too dumb to upgrade). even with a new rad, water pump, 180* t-stat, fresh coolant (about 40 coolant/60 distilled water), new rad cap, new fan blade and h.d clutch and water wetter, if one chooses to run the a/c, all bets are off. i do live a stone's throw from mexico (tucson). we see temps of 110* in summer. when sittin in traffic, id run at around 200-205* (no a/c). now turn on the a/c (im already dying), and it climbs to 220 before i kill it. it would continue to escalate. now were i to have even one upgrade (esp:3 core rad), i bet all would be much better. now once ambient temps even get down to 95, i can run at 190-195. when it is ~75* ambient temp, i run at 170-180 (i have aftermarket gauge, obviously). so cooling system is up to par. just extreme heat is killer. my eclipse runs hot as heck in summer, while not getting warm enough while driving to get decent heat when cold out.

not trying to nit pick, but i was afraid that people in really hot climates with totally stock cooling systems would freak out based on what you said, thinking something horrible is wrong. every 5.0 i know of here, runs a 180 or 160, have 3 cores and some have mark 8 fans just to cope with the heat.

some people do band aid things. a cooling system may not be up to par, but rather than replace a million things, it can be a good compromise to just run a cooler t-stat. not a perfect world.

theoretically (and otherwise), i agree with you. cool?
Click to expand...
 

stangbear427

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#19
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #19
Very cool. No pun intended. I realize that it's the difference between a few dollars and a few hundred dollars, but I would rather see a high volume H20 pump and serious rad put in then drop down to a lower t-stat. However, I have to admit that I live in this imperfect world too- and sometimes a few bucks is more than I have to keep my daily driver going so I do what I have to to get by. (usually that's what the plastic is for, but sometimes I cave and make the car go without the better, high dollar fix for awhile- don't tell anyone) Most people bandaid things, that's just the way it is. Especially hotrodders...

p.s. just for clarification, so you don't lose any sleep over it- I was the one nitpicking. I'd call what you did "reality checking". Thanks for the support- backatcha.
 

rx7speed

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#20
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #20
stangbear427 said:
To answer the thread Q: "Whats the ideal engine temp for a slightly modified 302?" the ideal is 192*, just like a bone stock 302. A 200* t-stat would be too hot any time of year. It may be a good choice if you live in Alaska. All you need is a Motorcraft stock replacement 192* available at any Ford dealer for @$12. That's the temperature it was designed to run at. If you need to use a colder t-stat than stock in order to have good performance, then something is wrong. Ideally, the perfect performance scenario is cold fuel, cold air, and a hot engine. A 195* t-stat would probably be fine, unless you live so far south that you could throw a rock and hit Mexico- but even then you don't need a 180* t-stat to keep from overheating, most people find just using a flex fan or the cop spec fan clutch will keep it in check (again- unless something else is wrong) If you are leaking fluid anywhere, that is bad and needs to be addressed. A coolant leak doesn't have too be too extravagant to cause problems in several areas- including how well your heater works.
Click to expand...

I agree
hot motor is generally best for performance
when your motor burns fuel it creates heat which builds pressure
a lot of that heat goes into the cooling system causing less pressure which means less efficiency or less power

the hotter you can run the motor without damaging it or going into detonation the best generally
as always there are exceptions

problem is running a hot motor sometimes can degrade performance by the intake getting hot and the intake charge will follow suit


but generally running a hotter therm with a good cooling system as in a high flow pump and good rad would be better then a stock cooling system with a lower temp therm
as the high therm with good cooling system shoudl be able to have more stable of a temp while keeping things nice and hot
 
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