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Whats the weak link in my cooling system??

  • Thread starter Thread starter 90FoxBdy
  • Start date Start date Jul 8, 2010
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RatStang

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#21
  • Sep 28, 2010
  • #21
Are we running a ram air hood of any kind?

If so, plug the ram air holes once the above mentioned suggestions are exhausted.

If replacing the radiator, get a welded aluminum two core from e-bay. Get one specifically for a standard transmission if you have a 5 speed. You should be able to find one fairly inexpensively.

Oh... and change the radiator cap if that's not been done in some time.
 
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90FoxBdy

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Sep 28, 2010
#22
  • Sep 28, 2010
  • #22
The condition of the radiator is decent. It has sat empty for a few months but looked clean on the inside. It was better than what I had to say the least. As for the hoses the only ones that could collapse are the ones from the water pump. Bottom is reinforced and upper is metal(Vortech). Drove it around some tonight. It will creap up to 210 after about 15minutes of highway driving. Let off and it immediately starts cooling off, also if you kick on the heat it drops a bit. It seems to like 210, atleast tonight wouldnt go past it. Water will also rise and fall in the overflow as it should. Still need to track down an air dam. Also no ram air hood. And for the cap I tried a new one already. Thxs for the replies
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Nov 29, 1999
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#23
  • Sep 29, 2010
  • #23
The air dam has been missing indefinitely? Contrary to what's posted in here, I think they help a bit in triple digit temps (which I don't think most folks who post about air-dams as unnecessary see for more than a day or two a year).

If you wanted, you could try testing inlet and outlet rad temps with an IR thermometer. But if it acts fine while idling, that won't help much.
 
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Lawbreaker5.0

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Feb 20, 2009
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Sep 29, 2010
#24
  • Sep 29, 2010
  • #24
I would somehow get a hold of a stock clutch fan set up, Idk if you can with the standard rotation, maybe switch some stuff around for testing purposes :idunno: just to rule out the fan. I read (few) instances that pushing fans can cause turbulence issues (or something to that nature) on the highway. Just my 2 cents

I don't have air dam on my coupe and have yet to notice any overheating experiences and we saw tons of triple digits this year but I don't think it would hurt. I'm gonna get one day. Lol.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Sep 29, 2010
#25
  • Sep 29, 2010
  • #25
HISSIN50 said:
The air dam has been missing indefinitely? Contrary to what's posted in here, I think they help a bit in triple digit temps (which I don't think most folks who post about air-dams as unnecessary see for more than a day or two a year).

If you wanted, you could try testing inlet and outlet rad temps with an IR thermometer. But if it acts fine while idling, that won't help much.
Click to expand...

Hissin, i think you underestimate what temps have been in the north the past few years, especially this past year.
Pretty much was 100 degrees here in nj for about 30 days straight.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#26
  • Sep 29, 2010
  • #26
I understand that it's been disgustingly hot out that way the last summer or summers (I feel for our friends in Southern Cali of late as well). However, Southern Arizona beats just about anywhere in the country and that's a reason why car manufacturers have proving-grounds out here. It'll be another triple digit day today for example.

When people talk about things being unnecessary, it's generally not completely objective or ubiquitous.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Sep 29, 2010
#27
  • Sep 29, 2010
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90FoxBdy said:
I finally got the car running after a two year break. My problem is now is that it wants to heat up while driving. At idle it will sit at 190 all day in 105 degree weather. However once you start getting on it it will quickly creep towards the 250 mark. If I back off and drive very easy it cools itself off quickly. My cooling system consist of 3 row pepboys radiator, 180 stat, jegs electric fan pushing 2800cfm with a thermostat switch controlled by a bulb coming in contact with the radiator and a advance auto parts (wp 641) water pump. (I needed standard rotation pump). Stock size pulley

What do you see as the weak link. Is a standard water pump enough to handle my combo? Also is the thermostat switch that came with the fan any good? I really am not a big fan of the concept, but I bought it in a bind.

Thanks for any input.
Click to expand...


You have a Jegs Pusher Fan? Maybe you should look into a puller as it would be more efficient, I also agree with all the other guys on you needing the air dam in place.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Sep 30, 2010
#28
  • Sep 30, 2010
  • #28
I didn't think he meant the fan was literally a pusher (I thought he meant it kinda like someone says he's pushing 500 hp). If that really is literal, I'd agree with the other folks about using it as a puller if space allows.
 
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