Whats wrong with my car??? Like 23847239874 things went wrong today.

BlueOvalStangGT

BlueOvalStangGT

Active Member
Oct 27, 2003
2,849
0
46
Tampa Florida....USF!!!
#1
So I leave my school today everything is fine, cruising at like 2k rpm's, and I put the clutch in and.....2k rpms.....few seconds later .....2k rpms..... Unless I hit the brake , when im driving it kinda idles at 2k rpms. Ok now when im at a stop, innstead of surging and barely idleing like before, it will slowly rev up to like 1200 rpms and stay there. So im at a freinds house (installed a tri-ax on his 04) and im about to leave and im bitching cause my car is idleing funny so I had it runnin for a little and then I lok at my temp gague. WAY PAST NORMAL. Turned the car off and cranked the heater up. LEt it cool down and tried to drive home with the heater all the way up. Had to make a few stops but eventually made it. Last night I pulled some codes and it was kkinda wierd cause i got a 2 digit code but im going to try again and report back. I got a couple open EGR or something codes and thats about it. Like I said before, ill be back with codes. What could this be? There is a puddle of coolant on top of my waterpump housing but it looks like its leaking from the rubber hose that come from my rad(even though its clamped down really tight) or from my thermostat housing. Could that mean my t-stat died and its forcing the coolant out the side or maybe I blew a HG and my coolant is under pressure again. I bought a leak down tester so that will say if its the gasket or not. What could be wrong with my car?
 
#2
check your coolant level. does your exhaust smell any different, like coolant? how fast does it heat up? check your rad hose to see if the clamp is cutting it. pull some plugs see what they look like. do the leak down test.
 
#3
Your problem is the squeeky muffler bearing and low blinker fluid in your supercharger. I think you should just give it to me then all of your problems will be solved.
 
#4
Coolant is fine, I pulled these codes that might explain alot.

I got this: 564 564 1 176 332 334 556

Im guessing 1 is just a seperator code or something?

564-Fan control circuit failure
176 - 02 lean left side
332-insufficeitn EGR opening
334 egr valve position over closed limit
556- Primary fuel pump failure

564- that might be why my car is overheating- how to fix

176- razors edge sucks?

332-334- my idling problem?

556- what???? whats goign on here?
 
#8
BlueOvalStangGT said:
...There is a puddle of coolant on top of my waterpump housing but it looks like its leaking from the rubber hose that come from my rad(even though its clamped down really tight) or from my thermostat housing. Could that mean my t-stat died and its forcing the coolant out the side or maybe I blew a HG and my coolant is under pressure again. I bought a leak down tester so that will say if its the gasket or not. What could be wrong with my car?
Click to expand...
water pump
it spits water out the weep holes, i think one of them is on top. I thought the same thing the first time i had one go out, and the hole isn't very visable. Might as well check it out, get new clamps for the hoses, and put one on there anyways, they seem to go out after 100,000.
That's my guess, especially if the temp went way up. a little coolant circulating will let the engine heat up slowly, if it's shooting up, the water isn't moving at all, which is very likely a water pump.
I also have this prob. with a stupid lil pontiac right now.
Lee
 
#10
Started it today adn it ran for like 15 seconds and quit. And it wasnt like the same kinda quit it usually has, it just stopped. Did that 2x and then it ran fine idling at 1000 again after it warmed up. Temp kept rising and started to get on the hot side so I turned it off.
 
#11
gcomfx.com said:
Can you see your EGR opening and closing? Mine caused all sorts of problems. I deleted the damn thing.

Have you done any mods lately?
Click to expand...

I didnt know it even opened and closed. What did you do to delete it? I looked in my hanes manual and there is so many problems that can be related to the EGR I kinda want to delete it too. ONly mods lately are the superharger/fuelsystem/MAF/longtubes/TB :rolleyes:
 
#12
94Blue302GT said:
water pump
it spits water out the weep holes, i think one of them is on top. I thought the same thing the first time i had one go out, and the hole isn't very visable. Might as well check it out, get new clamps for the hoses, and put one on there anyways, they seem to go out after 100,000.
That's my guess, especially if the temp went way up. a little coolant circulating will let the engine heat up slowly, if it's shooting up, the water isn't moving at all, which is very likely a water pump.
I also have this prob. with a stupid lil pontiac right now.
Lee
Click to expand...

Would this cause excess pressure in the rad to thermostat housing hose tho? MY hose was under alot of pressure the first time it over heated. Also you can see where it can leak but the hose is clamped as far as it will go so im thinking my coolant is under pressure from the blower, but that wouldnt explain it pressureizing at idle. I going to test my t-stat and try to do leakdown test tomroow.

How can I fix that firsst code it threw about the fan? What can I test to seee whats wrong?
 
#13
You need to reset the computer, drive the car again for 10 miles, and then do a KOER test. Those may have been stored since the beginning of time (since the last time you disconnected the battery).

If you idle speed is all of the sudden off, I would look to your throttle body linkage, and, more likely, your IAC valve.

If you decide to replace the IAC valve, PM me. I have TONS of info on that subject.
Scott
 
#14
Ok, about the codes. The first set of codes you get are the current problems the computer found. The second set (after the separator flash) are the problems the computer found earlier but are no longer present. AKA Continuous Memory codes.

The idle problem could be caused by the EGR valve. Remove the vacuum line going to it, and you should feel vacuum only after you rev the engine passed 1500RPMs+. If you get vacuum at idle, or if you don't get any vacuum when you rev the engine, your EVR is probably bad.

If your EVR checks out, take the EGR valve assembly off the throttle body, remove the plastic sensor and clean the valve (the metal thing) in some carb cleaner. I would also clean your IAC using the same method.

Test the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor when you are finished cleaning. To do this reassemble the EVP and the EGR valve. Using an ohm meter and a vacuum pump with a gauge. Test between where the BR/W and the GY/R wire connects to the sensor, the resistance should decrease from 5500 to 100 ohms as vacuum goes from 0 to 10in.
If that's OK then test for 4-6 DC volts on the BR/W wire with the Key on.


A faulty EGR can cause overheating, but so can a broken fan. I'm sure the fan uses a relay, check that first. Then test the fan using a wire directly from the battery. If it works you will need to check the rest of the circuit.

As for leaking water....I'm tired of typing so have the system pressure tested. :P
 
#16
Ok I put power to my fan and the fan works. I checked the 3 relays under the hood and they work. I tested the 3 things on the plug that goes into the fan. I got like 4.6 volts on the red, .5 on the orange and of course 0 on the ground. I tested what I think is the sensor on the coolant line right after the t-stat to see what it reads, around 4.7 v9olts. What else could I check?
 
#17
OK I found this
COOLING-DIA.jpg
in the FAQ sticky on these (94-95) forums.

I'm using a 91 engine and wiring, so I didn't know you had a two speed fan. It looks as if the RED/ORG wire should have about 5-6 DCV, for low speed. The ORG/LT-BLU wire should have 12V, but only when full fan speed is needed. I "think" you will also get full fan speed when you turn on your A/C.

If turning on your A/C doesn't do anything. Check (I'm just guessing where to start) for 12V KOEO at the BLK/ORG wire on the fan relays. If its good.....

Check between PCM pin 17 and the HEDF relays ground for continuity. It looks like the PCM grounds this wire to turn the fan on high.

You should be able to get it from the diagram. The only thing I don't understand is how the EDF (low speed) drops the voltage down to 6. There must be a resistor or something.
 
#20
Ok, car doesnt overheat anymore, drives good if you take it easy but once you get some boost mixed in there, it will like pop in between shifts. Have new CE codes too.

118- Coolant Temp Sensor above max voltage/indicates above 245 degrees.

123- Throttle Position Sensor above max voltage.

113- IAT sensor indicates open circuit/below -40 degrees.

337- EGR circuit above max voltage

539- A/c on during self test(but it wasnt)

564- Fan control circuit failure.

What should I start on? Im going to go figure out how to work this leakdown tester, more coolant is leaking onto the wwaterpump. :(
 
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