Where did you get your keyed 12 volt source for your elec. choke?

Well if I'm understanding the question correctly...
then the heater fuse.

66

What year car do you have?? My 1965 has a three wire independent pigtail under the dash to the right of the steering colomn. One is hot and the other two are switched.

I would like to know this as well............I used the little connector on the front of the starter solenoid that is closer to the firewall on my 67.........it seems to be hot with engine running?????

67GTCOUPE said:

I would like to know this as well............I used the little connector on the front of the starter solenoid that is closer to the firewall on my 67.........it seems to be hot with engine running?????

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Not a good spot because that wire goes back to the coil AND more importantly the coil is connected to the ignition switch via a resistor wire.

Here's what happens when you start the car: 12 volts is obtained from the starter solenoid to power the coil. When you release the key and it goes to RUN, the engine keeps running on power provided from the ignition switch via the resistor wire. This drops the coil voltage down to 9 volts under normal conditions. The impact of this is to provide hotter spark during starting and long coil life during RUN.

Adding the circuit to the electric choke does the following: it adds a branch circuit to the coil circuit in parallel with the coil. During start there is no impact and everything works fine. During RUN however, the coil voltage is lessened by the amount of current drawn by the electric choke and spark output is lower. This could result in your engine missing or sputtering during some conditions. Everything may appear to be okay but it really isn't.

Here's the math of it:

No connection to solenoid:

Coil voltage = 12 volts - voltage drop across resistor wire.

Coil voltage = 12 - (coil current * resistance)

Since the coil draws about 3 amps and the resistor is about 1 ohm...

Coil voltage (RUN) = 12 - (3 * 1) = 9 volts

With connection to solenoid:

Since the coil draws about 3 amps, the electric choke about 1 amp and the resistor is about 1 ohm...

Coil voltage = 12 volts - voltage drop across resistor wire.

Coil voltage = 12 - ((3+1) * 1) = 8 volts.

Note the voltage is not much lower but it is LOWER by 11%. The output spark is therefore 11% lower.

Where should it be connected. Not an easy answer because different car models have different access to switched 12 volt power. On '65/'66 its easy because the resistor wire unplugs. You can add wiring at this point that goes both to the resistor and to the electric choke. On other cars, the resistor wire may be molded into the ignition switch harness connector. In this case, I would use "ACC" voltage at the fuse block. ACC runs all the cars accessories. Refer to the schematic diagram for your electrical system and look at the ignition switch. One of the posts should be labelled ACC. That is the wire you want to tap into.

Couldn't he tap into the ign wire on the voltage regulator for an under the hood tap?

Ozsum67 said:

Couldn't he tap into the ign wire on the voltage regulator for an under the hood tap?

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Why, yes he could. On my car it's the green wire going to the voltage regulator.

Well this might explain why my electric choke doesn't work worth a damn!

OK guys: I have a 1967 stang..........where the heck sould I run power to my elect choke from??????

Ozsum67 said:

Couldn't he tap into the ign wire on the voltage regulator for an under the hood tap?

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I don't have a schematic handy on this laptop computer so will have to look later. It does seem like an appropriate source.

wiring

I ran mine from the stator connector on the back of my altenator. It's only live whole running and supplies 12 volts.

Ken

Mine is hooked up at the firewall connector for the neutral saftey switch.
It was auto now is 4sp.

It is a key on 12 volt source that is easy connect point under hood without going thru to interior.

Has been that way for 3yrs and work just fine.


PB

TTT

tweet66 said:

I ran mine from the stator connector on the back of my altenator. It's only live whole running and supplies 12 volts.

Ken

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Don't believe thats good... Stator connection is the neutral point on the stator and should be "0" volts if the alternator is working correctly. The only time it would have a voltage is if one of the stator windings is bad or a diode was open or shorted. This is the signal point for the idiot light on cars with one. When there's voltage it energizes a relay in the regulator that in turn turns on the idiot light. Yes, an alternator will work with one diode or winding bad, it just carries 1/3 less current. If the diode is shorted, it results in draining your battery whenever the car is not running.

Ozsum67 said:

Couldn't he tap into the ign wire on the voltage regulator for an under the hood tap?

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Looked at '65 and '66 wiring. For '66 it works fine since you can trace it back to ACC at the ignition switch. For '65 the same wire traces to the ALT idiot light, so its not a good spot.

geegee,
I've had it there for 8yrs with out a problem. I would think that if a diode were bad I'd have had some charging problems in that time. Using a amp meter, max output is 97 amps (1g alt) at 3000 rpms and never less than 45 at idle.

Ken