Where is the clutch SUPPOSED to engage?? I think its higher up...

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blk92stangg

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Jan 30, 2004

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Mar 1, 2004

#1

• Mar 1, 2004

• #1

Ok, assuming you have the stock quadrant and stock cable, where should the clutch engage, higher or lower?

Also, irregardless of what set up you have, steeda, UPR, etc, if the clutch is set up correctly with the correct preload on the clutch and fork, shouldn't the clutch release closer to the top ALL THE TIME no matter if you have a firewall adjuster, 2 or 3 step quadrant. After all, if the there is preload on the clutch and fork, the pedal in the car would be pulled all the way to the top, and the release point would be up there too, right?

I'm just dazed and confused after reading ALL the clutch posts for the past hour, and want to get a definitive answer, or at least opinions.

For myself, I can't see any possiblity of adjusting WHERE the clutch engages relative to the floor without dialing in A LOT of freeplay in the cable. The adjustments afforded to you with the adjustable hardware is just so you can keep the preload on the clutch and fork with an increasingly stretched cable.

Anyone with the low down on this????? Please??

 

black91-GT

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Jan 17, 2003

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fayetteville NC

Mar 1, 2004

#2

• Mar 1, 2004

• #2

I'd like to know too

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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#3

• Mar 1, 2004

• #3

you may have come across a post or two from me in your search. i will toss my hat into the ring again.
i would think that the stock quadrant would not allow the clutch to engage as close to the top as an aftermarket set up. i dont see how that plastic ratcheting POS could actually dial in preload. it may take up some slack, but not pull tension into the cable. i know it theoretically can, as it hyperextends to take up slack, but i dont buy it. then again, i have never seen/used a stock quadrant.

with aftermarket set ups, i agree in full with you. if there is preload, i dont see how the pedal should not be close to the top of the pedal travel. since the preload only gets the TOB nestled up real tight with the diaphram fingers, maybe if the disk is shot, it would take a little more travel to get the clutch disengaged, but not much that i can imagine.

so that is my thinking and i am curious too.

 

stangbear427

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Nov 11, 2002

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Mar 2, 2004

#4

• Mar 2, 2004

• #4

Theoretically, if you have an adjustable cable, multi pickup quadrant, and a firewall adjuster, you can change the engage point (pedal height) without slackening the cable. In practice, it is a little more difficult. You are correct, you'd have to crank in the firewall adjuster and loosen the cable, a far from ideal setup. However, with an adjustable cable you can put it on a closer pickup to the firewall (which changes the ramp, and thus the pedal action, and thus the engage point), and take up the slack on the other end at the clutch fork, tuning it in with the FWA. I have done it, but it's a PIA to get it right. I wouldn't bother again, I like it grabbing up high. I do not, however, like a high pedal, and my shift knee rubbing on the steering wheel while I wait to shift. I solved that problem with a MM pedal relocation kit, which put the clutch pedal at the same height as the brake pedal; then set up the linkage to engage right at the top of the ark. Makes for comfortable, controlled, lightning fast shifts

 

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blk92stangg

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Mar 2, 2004

#5

• Mar 2, 2004

• #5

Ah, I never thought of it in that way...I didn't think about pedal HEIGHT, as opposed to ENGAGEMENT. One more question...how do you figure your preload on the clutch? I have mine tight enought where there is no play when I pull the cable housing from the firewall adjuster. I have noticed that I the tighter I make it the better the shifting seems (smoothness wise) but I don't where the cut off point is. Any insight?

Thanks for the input all!!

 

stangbear427

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Nov 11, 2002

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Mar 3, 2004

#6

• Mar 3, 2004

• #6

When you rev it to 4k and slide your foot off the clutch, and it doesn't snap your neck and you don't think the tires are slipping, it's too tight. If you do this a few times too make sure you aren't dreaming and start to smell something burning, it's definately too tight Seriously, there is such thing as too much, at which point the clutch disc isn't fully allowed to engage the flywheel. Generally, when you've tightened the FWA to the point that you can't pull any more slack cable through the firewall, it's tight enough. You can keep going and still be alright, however just how much tighter you can go varies from clutch to clutch. For example, FRPP King Cobra discs are thinner than others (why they engage right off the floor) and have a PP designed to work with a thin disc- they will be very unforgiving of too much preload. That kind of fine tuning can only be done when you have b-locked the clutch fork so you know you aren't effecting preload any more by tightening the FWA. Regardless, I don't recommend further tightening after the noticable slack under the hood is gone unless it still isn't shifting smoothly- and even then, it's probably because the PP is getting pooped.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Mar 3, 2004

#7

• Mar 3, 2004

• #7

Stangbear, that is interesting.
so with King Cobra clutches, one cant dial in preload to get the point of engagement higher? how is it different than another brand of clutch with a worn disc that is adjusted tight? the only way i could think of the clutch engaging low on the pedal is if the pressure plate diaphram was designed with more leverage, and therefore more movemement necessary to move the same distance. is this what you were saying?

 

stangbear427

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Nov 11, 2002

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Mar 3, 2004

#8

• Mar 3, 2004

• #8

Yes, that's how they can advertise it as being "40% stsronger than stock". It's kindof deceptive. You can still tune it a little, but it's a lot harder than, say, any other clutch.

 

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thompsonsd

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Aug 15, 2002

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Mar 3, 2004

#9

• Mar 3, 2004

• #9

I'll throw in my 2 cents. I have my clutch engaging about 1 to 2 inches from fully depressed. The cable still has plenty of tension to stay tight, and this way there is NO doubt that my clutch is fully engaged to handle maximun torque! I used to have it engage at about half travel, and I've also killed a king cobra and a centerforce clutch within 2000 miles of use... yes I did spay them off before install and let them break in before I beat them.

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

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Mar 3, 2004

#10

• Mar 3, 2004

• #10

my pedel engages right at about half way, so i've got some play at the top for slipping the clutch to get traction. If it's all or none, you'd better have some grip or your 60s are gonna suffer.

 

8

87gtconv

ragtopman

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Feb 11, 1999

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Southern Calif

Mar 4, 2004

#11

• Mar 4, 2004

• #11

Mine is adjusted so about 1/4 way from bottom it starts to engage. That is how I like it. When I drive new stangs I hate it cause they are almost all the way to the top before they engage!!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Mar 4, 2004

#12

• Mar 4, 2004

• #12

to each his/her own. my set up (old clutch that the previous owner had installed. it came with a TOB, plate, disc and a crutch. LOL).
i have a smidge of freeplay dialed in. the clutch still engages about half way down. fine by me. i like a quicker engagement, and since i know i have some freeplay, i like it.
i know some clutches are so fat, preload is needed just to get it to engage at the bottom of the pedal.
as long as it is not slipping and the point of engagment is where you want it, you are good to go, i feel.

i would not necessarily dial in preload unless i needed it for engagement. i would think it has to load the TOB up some and possible wear the diaphram fingers, no? if the TOB is not noisy and engagement is not at the bottom, why preload the cable?

 

stangbear427

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Mar 4, 2004

#13

• Mar 4, 2004

• #13

Because Ford does. About 10lbs of preload, it's what they call "making it stupid proof". I think that's supposed to be humorous, but I don't get it...