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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Where to attach engine hoist 2.3L?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Panzerfaust
  • Start date Start date Jul 30, 2019
P

Panzerfaust

Member
May 22, 2019
6
1
13
Olympia, Wa
Jul 30, 2019
#1
  • Jul 30, 2019
  • #1
My son and I are attempting to pull the 2.3l out of his car to swap with a running 5.0l 4spd out of a donor with some minor tune ups and suspension refreshes. However I am struggling to find out where to attach the load leveler for my engine hoist to the motor. This is the exact one I have Harbor Freight 3/4 ton leveler .

I can see where to bolt it to on the front sides of the engine, as there are some nice bolts that drive directly in to the engine block however there is absolutely nothing I can see on the back/sides? I have pulled the exhaust manifold, and can use one of the manifold bolt locations in the rear, but there there is nothing substantial on the intake side of the little engine.

I have pulled a 350 or two many years ago, however i had a intake plate to mount to, not this time. Any tips would be greatly helpful. I am sure i am just missing something obvious.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,347
18,081
224
Massachusetts
Jul 31, 2019
#2
  • Jul 31, 2019
  • #2
The 2.3 has an engine hoist mount point in the front center. You can see it in this pic. I believe there's another one at the rear of the engine on the opposite side of the valve cover

 

08GT500

5 Year Member
Jul 12, 2018
919
141
63
Massachusetts
Jul 31, 2019
#3
  • Jul 31, 2019
  • #3
If you’re pulling the trans & engine, use the factory supplied lift brackets. Attach a chain to the rear bracket, which is the black looped metal piece attached to the head with the exhaust manifold bolts.
If the OE loop’s removed, and you’ve a short section of Chain, make a jump between 2 exhaust Bolts, use that as an attachment point for your drop Hook or chain looped & double Bolted.
Do the same on the Intake side- small jump of chain under (2) Intake manifold bolts. I prefer using Grade 8 Bolts slightly odd longer & with solid washers tapered to the Bolt size at every point when doing any motor lifting, it’s cheap insurance. Tightening them down against the Chain increases yield.
You can also cradle it, doing a wraparound and catching a few bolts in between to maintain chain position..
Attach the other hook of the chain to the factory lift hook at the front of the engine, near the camshaft pulley, If not there, plenty of sizable Bolts up front to secure the Motor to Hoist.
I’d used a leveler, previously, got irritated at it & then on continued with the old method, with a Cherry picker or fixed Chain above connected sufficiently for the load, Chainfall in center. Make a loop in the chain as needed should you want an alternate pick point.
If your Hooks are sized appropriately for the chain & bite between links,, a short section of Chain bolted through the links on either side will hold it from slippage.
Once lifted, push the Car back while suspended, may have to manually bbbbnprop it securely on on some wood or ddfnk
sure you remove all FOUR bolts from the motor mounts before trying to lift it out, Many just use (2) for I-4 engines, like yourself, I also prefer (4) points to equally distribute/share the load.along with other mm

You can see both lift points in this picture:
[IMG alt="Name: IMG_3950.jpg
Views: 2345
Size: 91.0 KB"]https://www.ranger-forums.com/attac...66d1501483879-motor-mounts-img_3950.jpg[/IMG]
 
P

Panzerfaust

Member
May 22, 2019
6
1
13
Olympia, Wa
Jul 31, 2019
#4
  • Jul 31, 2019
  • #4
Thank you both for the reply.

We have the front hook just not the back. I think what I will do is use the front loop, and then the double-chainlink exhaust manifold technique on the opposite back corner, and not worry about another lifting point. Think i was too worried about getting all 4 points attached for the leveler that I missed an obvious way right in front of me.

Thanks again,
 
J

junkyardwarrior

Well-Known Member
Jan 10, 2011
400
113
63
Aug 2, 2019
#5
  • Aug 2, 2019
  • #5
The only suggestion I have is to stash the old 2.3 if you're doing a V8 swap. The 2.3's are getting harder to find. Particularly the large journal versions (they all had 4 spark plugs). Turbo guys like those mainly because they're easier to deal with due to the boss and/or threaded hole for the oil drain back.
 
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