Where to Buy '72 Steering Coupler

Stanger007

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Baton Rouge, LA

Nov 26, 2006

#1

• Nov 26, 2006

• #1

View attachment 421640​

Does anyone know where I can buy the rubber and metal pieces of the steering coupler?

I'm trying to decide if it's cheaper to pay to have the pins machined off so that I can install a poly rag joint with four bolts or if it's cheaper just to buy a whole new assembly since mine is pretty nasty.

I've got a few parts catalogs sitting here but could not find the metal pieces of the coupler for sale - does anyone sell these?

Thanks,
Wes

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

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Nov 26, 2006

#2

• Nov 26, 2006

• #2

I f u have an NPD catalogue, look on page 68. They have a replacement style coupler for $68.95 or just the insulator for $9.95. Thay also have concours mounting kits. If you don't have the catalogue, I think u can download it in PDF format on their website.

 

Stanger007

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Baton Rouge, LA

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#3

• Nov 26, 2006

• #3

mustangdave said:

I f u have an NPD catalogue, look on page 68. They have a replacement style coupler for $68.95.

Click to expand...

I'll have to give them a call to see if that's one half of the joint or both halves. Looking at their picture it seems to only be one half of it?

Wes

 

jes72mustang

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Nov 26, 2006

#4

• Nov 26, 2006

• #4

Do you only need the rubber rag joint? or do you need the metal peices? from the picture it just looks like the ring is torn and the metal is ok. if that is that case any mustang supplier should have the rag joint (ring) for less than $10 depending if you go with rubber or eurothane (sp?).

 

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ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

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#5

• Nov 26, 2006

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jes72mustang said:

Do you only need the rubber rag joint? or do you need the metal peices? from the picture it just looks like the ring is torn and the metal is ok. if that is that case any mustang supplier should have the rag joint (ring) for less than $10 depending if you go with rubber or eurothane (sp?).

Click to expand...

I think he doesn't want to have to drill out the pins or pay a shop to do it.

 

Stanger007

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Baton Rouge, LA

Nov 26, 2006

#6

• Nov 26, 2006

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That is correct - I was curious to see if it was cheaper to just buy a whole new assembly vs the rag joint and bolts + machine shop costs.

I've got an e-mail into NPD to see if their assembly is both halves.

If not I'll bring it by a machine shop this week... the Mach has been down for a few weeks waiting on this, I'm itchin' to drive it again.

Wes

 

jes72mustang

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Nov 27, 2006

#7

• Nov 27, 2006

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Now I am curious. I am going to have to re-read the instructions that came with my replacement rag joint. I don't recall them saying anything about needing to press or drill anything out.

 

Stanger007

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Nov 27, 2006

#8

• Nov 27, 2006

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Can you post up a picture of the directions? All the kits w/ the nuts and bolts look to be made from the same manufacturer.

I'm waiting on my rag joint to come in before I send everything off to be machined - don't want them to take too much off.

Wes

 

jes72mustang

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I will try to remember to do that tonight.

 

Stanger007

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#10

• Nov 27, 2006

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Thanks man I appreciate it!

 

jes72mustang

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Nov 30, 2006

#11

• Nov 30, 2006

• #11

Sorry I have not gotten the direction up yet. everytime I remeber I am either in the middle of something else or not at home. I will try to rememer to do it this after noon, especially since I may be replacing my rag joint this weekend.

Writting note to myself.

 

Stanger007

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#12

• Nov 30, 2006

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Not a problem, I owe a picture to a thread in the 94-95 forum but it's been raining here so dang much that I can't crawl under the car to get the pic they need.

I went ahead and ordered the rag joint kit from CJ Pony Parts - waiting on the machining till I get the instructions though - don't want to go too big on the machining.

Thanks man,
Wes

 

jes72mustang

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#13

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The instructions are not very good, unless I am missing part of them, but the way it looks is that is all just bolts on. no mention of machining needed.

I also have an article from the August 2004 Mustang Monthly, How to: Replace a Rag Joint. I can Scan the article and email you if you want.
But the jist of it is this:

it does look like you grind off the the mushroomed heads of the tang and then drive them out with a hammer and punch. then the replacement is bolted on. So I really don't see that you would need a machine shop to do any of this repair unles you dont have a grinder.

Let me know if you want me to scan the article.

 

Stanger007

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#14

• Nov 30, 2006

• #14

I bet I've got that issue of MM I'll go check.

Thanks for the tips - I don't have a grinder but would love an excuse to buy one... looks like this is it.

I'll post up how it goes, you do the same if you can.

Wes

 

Stanger007

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#15

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View attachment 420343
Boy it's amazing what the right tools will do.

I bought a grinder from Sears tonite and had all four pins out in about 15 minutes.

Here's how I did it...
View attachment 420345
Grind down the "mushroom" part of the pin till...

View attachment 420347
...till you can see the outline of the pin...

View attachment 420349
...then drive out the pins w/ a punch...

View attachment 420351
...wash rinse and repeat three more times.

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

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#16

• Nov 30, 2006

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Sweet! I'll be doing the same thing in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the pics.

 

jes72mustang

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Dec 1, 2006

#17

• Dec 1, 2006

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Did you have the article.

Glad you were able to get it going, I hope to start the same operation later today.

 

Stanger007

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Dec 1, 2006

#18

• Dec 1, 2006

• #18

jes72mustang said:

Did you have the article.

Glad you were able to get it going, I hope to start the same operation later today.

Click to expand...

I couldn't find that issue of the MM mag - I was missing a few around that time... must have loaned them out.

Let me know how your install goes... I'm waiting on my rag joint to arrive before I can put it all back together.

Wes

 

jes72mustang

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Mar 31, 2005

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S. Central PA

Dec 2, 2006

#19

• Dec 2, 2006

• #19

Stanger,

I got my new rag joint and power steering box back into the car this afternoon. The install was pretty straight forward. the most difficult part was lifting the power steering box up and holding it in place while starting the bolts. I think I will be able to install my headers and finish re0installing the power steering pump and hoses tomorrow.

While I had the power steering pump off I cleaned it good and repainted it so it meeds some extra time to dry. PLus it is going to be easier to get the header in without the hoses and pump in the way.

BTW, how hard of a time did you have driving those studs out once you ground the heads off? Mine were pretty tough, I tried with the puch and 10oz ball peen hammer and got nowhere. Finally I traded the ball peen for the 3 pounder, it still took a good effort with that but they fianally came loose. I would have bothered except that I needed those little metal plates.

 

Stanger007

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Baton Rouge, LA

Dec 5, 2006

#20

• Dec 5, 2006

• #20

jes72mustang said:

BTW, how hard of a time did you have driving those studs out once you ground the heads off? Mine were pretty tough, I tried with the puch and 10oz ball peen hammer and got nowhere. Finally I traded the ball peen for the 3 pounder, it still took a good effort with that but they fianally came loose. I would have bothered except that I needed those little metal plates.

Click to expand...

Mine drove out fairly easy - I used my smaller ball peen and a punch - took about two good wacks to knock them loose - I had the joint clamped down in a bench vise.

View attachment 419209

View attachment 419211

I got my rag joint in today and mounted everything up in the car - all went together well except for the new pitman arm. I've got about five good turns on the nut that holds it on and it's getting tight... don't want to end up messing up the seals inside the steering gear but I don't see any other way to get it on unless I figure out a way to press it on and then put the nut on?

Did you have to mess with the pitman arm any?

It started getting cold so I gave up for the night. After I get the pitman arm figured out I've got to connect up the P/S hoses and fill/bleed the system and I'll be good to go.

Can't wait to start daily driving the Mach again!

Wes