I do believe if you supply a block without cracks Woody will work out a way to do a stock block for you. By the time it’s all machined and ready for assembly though you’re only saving in the $1000-$1200 neighborhood over going with a dart block. It’s not exactly chump change, but kind of something to think about. A dart block will more than likely be the last block you’ll buy, save unless something catastrophic happens. Even if you choose to go 4.125 bore there is still several rebuilds to go before thinking about cylinder wall thickness.
If going stock block I’d just get one out of a junkyard and put a set of pistons in it (for some compression). Probably will have to get the rotating assembly balanced, unless the weight is spot on to the stock ones, but it’ll be your cheapest route. Usually the fuel injected 5.0 long blocks are pretty cherry when you crack them open.
If going stock block I’d just get one out of a junkyard and put a set of pistons in it (for some compression). Probably will have to get the rotating assembly balanced, unless the weight is spot on to the stock ones, but it’ll be your cheapest route. Usually the fuel injected 5.0 long blocks are pretty cherry when you crack them open.