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where to start, what to get for a 67?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gzminiz
  • Start date Start date Aug 1, 2005
G

gzminiz

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Oct 15, 2004
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Phoenix, AZ
Aug 1, 2005
#1
  • Aug 1, 2005
  • #1
Just picked up a 67 stang this weekend and trying to figure out where to start. It is a coupe w/ the I6. I got the basic plan of stuff I want to do to it but I am not sure as to the best components. . Here is the basic list of stuff i want todo for performance

1) 390FE
2) 5 speed tranny
3) disc brakes
4) power steering
5) better handling


I have read about the mustang II front end conversion and I think that is the best option. I liked one that they had at some online shop from vegas, mustangdepot.com, but it was upwards of $4-5k. But that came with the power disc/disc and power rack and pinon setup so i would kill a couple birds with one stone. Has anyone worked with the heidt's mustang II (and IRS) conversions?

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/suspension.htm

I have a feeling that the suspension, steering and brake would be the best starting point. I would like the best bang for my buck. I don't need something that will handle like a vette, but i don't want the thing to be a boat either.

Thanks for any advice or opinions.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
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Aug 1, 2005
#2
  • Aug 1, 2005
  • #2
It really depends on how deep your wallet is and who does all the work.
 

65up2d8

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Mar 30, 2005
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Aug 2, 2005
#3
  • Aug 2, 2005
  • #3
You'd have money in the bank building a 351W stroker as opposed to the 390. You can build a 393W very cheap compared to the old 390 FE, and you can build a Windsor up to 427 cubic inches with a stock block and the right stroker kit like thehueypilot did(even more cubes with a Dart block; but that costs mega $$$$$$$$$$$). The old FE's are bad ass and I'm not trying to be a hater, but there's simply no comparison in terms of aftermarket parts availability, i.e. fuel injection, readily available transmissions and/or bellhousings, etc. The 5.0 phenomenon made the FE's dinosaurs to a certain extent because so many parts are interchangeable between 5.0's and 5.8's (351 Windsors) and the 5.0 market was so popular. Today, it would probably be about as cost effective to convert to a late model 4.6 Cobra engine in a '67 as it would be to mod a 390 in the ways you are suggesting. Just my $.02.
 
J

John Z

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Morgantown WV
Aug 2, 2005
#4
  • Aug 2, 2005
  • #4
Do not forget that the swap to the V8 will require a new rear end, with the engine you're talking about a 9" would be the way to go.
Have you carefully evaluated the car for RUST. You're talking about big bucks for performance. Need to make sure you have a good foundation.
 
G

gzminiz

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Aug 3, 2005
#5
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #5
There is no rust on the car, it was an AZ car the entire time. I had considered the 351W and I might still, but I was trying to keep somewhat true to the car as it had the 390 available but not the 351W. I know it would cost more, but just something I want. And I figure it is my dream car, why cut corners. As for dropping the 8 in, I knew buying the 6 it was pretty much a shell and not much more, but I got a killer deal for it so I said what the heck.

I will be adding all the subframe conectors I can as to not rip the car apart and I can do all but the painting on the car so larbor doesn't cost me anything.

Unless I can't do certain things with the 390 I would probably stick to that. I am hoping to get a 5 speed (not true to the car, but need OD for such a gas guzzler). If there are certain things that aren;t possible with the 390 unless signifigant modifications are done please let me know, might have to go with a stroker.
 
G

gzminiz

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#6
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #6
oh, and I want to stay carburated, so fuel injection not an issue. I fell in love with the 390, gonna be hard to do something other then that. I know the weight and aftermarket performance items are few and far between, but I just love the idea of the long block
 
G

gzminiz

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Oct 15, 2004
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Aug 3, 2005
#7
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #7
ok, so the 351 with the 408 stroker kit is looking pretty good right now as it is so much cheaper and I get more of a choice on what components I can use. damn, i really thought i was locked in on that 390. ok, so opinions, should i build from scratch or can i get more for the money on a crate motor?
 

65up2d8

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Mar 30, 2005
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Aug 3, 2005
#8
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #8
I'd say buy a crate motor from DSS, Ford Racing, Coast High Performance, Ford Performance Solutions, Keith Craft, etc. Unless your experienced in building engines, you'll probably come out cheaper in the long run, and you'll be more assured of getting the proper combination of parts as these companies are experienced in building strokers.
 
G

gzminiz

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#9
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #9
I haven't built an engine before, but i liked the idea of doing it myself. I have worked on them and know what i am doing. I really liked the idea of choosing my own parts, but the concern of how they work together is a stumbling point. Would hate to have a component bottle necking everything.
 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002
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Aug 3, 2005
#10
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #10
you need to find a engine-building buddy there who can guide you through it...its hard to do it right the first time over the Internet!
 
G

gzminiz

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#11
  • Aug 3, 2005
  • #11
luckily i have 2 of those. And i don't think i would touch it without them. I took a look at keith craft and they have a short block kit:

408-410ci Stroker Plus ( STROKER PLUS INCLUDES: Eagle steel crank, Eagle rods, Ross pistons, Plasma moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings. )

The Short Block kits are balanced, blueprinted and assembled into a seasoned, fully prepped block with ARP main studs, cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs with hydraulic roller camshaft, double roller timing set. All block work done

I think i will start with that. Seems like the best compromise.
 

65up2d8

Member
Mar 30, 2005
281
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Memphis, TN
Aug 4, 2005
#12
  • Aug 4, 2005
  • #12
gzminiz said:
luckily i have 2 of those. And i don't think i would touch it without them. I took a look at keith craft and they have a short block kit:

408-410ci Stroker Plus ( STROKER PLUS INCLUDES: Eagle steel crank, Eagle rods, Ross pistons, Plasma moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings. )

The Short Block kits are balanced, blueprinted and assembled into a seasoned, fully prepped block with ARP main studs, cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs with hydraulic roller camshaft, double roller timing set. All block work done

I think i will start with that. Seems like the best compromise.
Click to expand...

That's not a bad compromise at all as it does give you some input as to component selection and lets you help put the puzzle together. I will probably do the same down the road since I would have to change a lot of the parts on most crate motors due to the fact that I will definitely be going the fuel injection route. Does the short block you've mentioned have a cast steel crank or a forged steel crank? You might want to upgrade to a forged crank if you anticipate really high RPM's or adding a power adder at a later date.
If you go the route you've mentioned, just make sure that all of your parts have the right imbalance and that you have all of the critical parts balanced together, i.e. flywheel, harmonic balancer, etc. And if you really want to get the most out of the setup, you may want to consider port matching the intake and heads you select to the ports on the shortblock. Finally, go with a Tremec TKO or 600 5 speed, which should handle the power you're anticipating, and a Centerforce clutch and pressure plate, which is IMO the best clutch for driveability that can handle the power you want. Good luck, and keep us informed.
 
G

gzminiz

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Aug 4, 2005
#13
  • Aug 4, 2005
  • #13
I believe it comes with a forged as they don't list a cast eagle crank as being available anywhere that i could find. But I will be making sure it is forged. I would be taking everything to a local machine shop to have it port matched and polished. Thanks for all the input, makes things a lot clearer and i definately will be posting updates.
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
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#14
  • Aug 4, 2005
  • #14
I have no personal experience, but Keith Craft has an excellent reputation for quality stroker engines.
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Aug 5, 2005
#15
  • Aug 5, 2005
  • #15
gzminiz said:
Just picked up a 67 stang this weekend and trying to figure out where to start. It is a coupe w/ the I6. I got the basic plan of stuff I want to do to it but I am not sure as to the best components. . Here is the basic list of stuff i want todo for performance

1) 390FE
2) 5 speed tranny
3) disc brakes
4) power steering
5) better handling


I have read about the mustang II front end conversion and I think that is the best option. I liked one that they had at some online shop from vegas, mustangdepot.com, but it was upwards of $4-5k. But that came with the power disc/disc and power rack and pinon setup so i would kill a couple birds with one stone. Has anyone worked with the heidt's mustang II (and IRS) conversions?

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/suspension.htm

I have a feeling that the suspension, steering and brake would be the best starting point. I would like the best bang for my buck. I don't need something that will handle like a vette, but i don't want the thing to be a boat either.

Thanks for any advice or opinions.
Click to expand...
3 and 5 first power is nothing if you can’t stop and because you are going from a 6 to an 8 this will have to happen together .

I don’t like the mustang II conversions they load the car in a way the uni-body was never designed for and the extent of modifications required leaves no room for error. A vary common failure mode is a broken / torn out weld. Just not a good option IMHO.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Aug 5, 2005
#16
  • Aug 5, 2005
  • #16
gzminiz said:
ok, so the 351 with the 408 stroker kit is looking pretty good right now as it is so much cheaper and I get more of a choice on what components I can use.
Click to expand...
You can stroke that 351W to a 427 and blow the 390s output away while being cheaper than an FE and lighter than a 289. The classic win-win-win scenario.
 
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