The volts gauge, like all the rest of the gauges isn't very accurate. Use a good digital voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery with the engine running 1200-1500 RPM. you should see 13.8-14.5 volts on a warm day; it will be higher on a cold day.
Take your car to any of the major auto parts stores and they will check your charging system for free.
My recommendation remains unchanged. Use a good DVM to check the voltage as I described.
The aftermarket tach would normally connect to the dark green/yellow wire on the coil power connector. The red/light green wire on the coil power connector is 12 volt switched power from the ignition switch.
My recommendation remains unchanged. Use a good DVM to check the voltage as I described.
The aftermarket tach would normally connect to the dark green/yellow wire on the coil power connector. The red/light green wire on the coil power connector is 12 volt switched power from the ignition switch.
My tach instructions say to go to negative side of coil. Do I just splice the tach wire into the connector wire? I was hoping there was an actual spot for it to plug in.
My tach instructions say to go to negative side of coil. Do I just splice the tach wire into the connector wire? I was hoping there was an actual spot for it to plug in.
Think about it...The read/green wire supplies positive 12 volts and voltage flows from positive to negative. What does that make the dark green/ tan wire side of the coil? There are no connector plugs on the dark green/ tan wire except the one on the coil and the one where it connects to the TFI module.
The stock tach uses the IDM pulse that goes to the computer and tach. Don't mess with that unless you like to have weird problems...
On any automotive wiring repair, the only correct way to do it is to solder the wires together can cover the splice with heat shrink tubing.