Here are the recommendations for that cam:
"GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. (50 STATE LEGAL 85-93, C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-46) BASIC RPM 2400-6000"
This comes from Crane's website - the E303 is the same cam as Crane's Powermax 2040 (Crane designed it for FRPP). You've got the stall speed and gear to help cope with the lack of bottom end that will come along with the E. But since you say the car is a daily driver and drivability is really important, I think there are other cams you'd be happier with. I think the question you ultimately have to ask and answer for yourself is why are there so many E cams for $50-$75 available? I wish I had part numbers - but Crower (sometimes called the baby Crower) and Lunati both make mild cams with 114 LSA's that folks seem to just love. They preserve bottom end and provide a noticeable kick in the mid and top end. I'd take a look at CompCams XE264. Note that almost any aftermarket cam you install may need different valve springs to cope with more lift and aggressive lobes.
Another custom provider, and the fellow who did mine, is Buddy Rawls; I couldn't be more pleased. His website is
http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/. Only you can decide if a custom is worth the money or not. Personally, if I'm gonna spend a bit more money, it'll be in the camshaft area. It's the most misunderstood component in the engine, and the hardest to get right -- that is, to pick one with some certainty that it's gonna perform the way you want it to. That's what the custom designers can help you with - getting one that's gonna do what you want it to. It's especially important for daily drivers where you're trying to balance a performance improvement with drivability. Good luck with your choice.
