Which Clutch To Use?

[Mustang Jim]

OK, I've completed th installation of front disk brakes and moved up to 15" rims. That was easy enough. With the exception of the front disks, 15" wheels and 3.40 rear gears, my car is a stock 260 V8 with a 3 speed manual. I am planning on converting to dual exhaust and 4 barrel carb setup in the spring.

Anyway, I've been getting clutch chatter for years and I'm ready to swap the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. My linkage appears fine, but it could probably use some new bushings at this point. I'm happy enough with the 3 speed, so I'm not planning on a T-5 conversion any time soon. I just need to address the clutch chatter.

I've read a couple of older threads and seen centerforce clutches being recommended in the past. Does anyone have suggestions? Centerforce, Hays, or Zoom?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[2+2GT]

I have the Ram copy of the C7ZZ 289HP/BOSS302 clutch. Stands up to my abuse pretty well.

 

[D.Hearne]

With what you plan, nothing more than a new O.E. type replacement is needed. And don't just look at the linkage bushings, also get up under the dash and inspect the clutch & brake pedal hanger bushings as well. These are pot metal and do not last forever.

 

[2+2GT]

Yep- at a minimum, I'd use the steel grommets and well-lubricated new nylon bushings. I'd recommend moving up to the roller bearing kit. Even if you go stone-stock on the rest of the linkage, it'll make a noticeable difference. Either way, the kits suck in one regard, the groove for the snap ring is too close to the flange, so the spring washer is useless and the thick reinforcing washer must be ground down to get the snap rings on. Adds about a half hour to the job, while it should just snap together.

While there may be some variation in the thickness of the pedal support, it would have to be ZERO to assemble the way it's delivered.

 

[68Blue302Coupe]

I've been installing a stock clutch and linkage on my 302 / 4spd. With the z-bar, does anyone know of shims or bushing that can take some of the wear out of the z-bar pivot? I have a used z-bar and new frame and engine side mounts. Its not terrible, but a little loose.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've been installing a stock clutch and linkage on my 302 / 4spd. With the z-bar, does anyone know of shims or bushing that can take some of the wear out of the z-bar pivot? I have a used z-bar and new frame and engine side mounts. Its not terrible, but a little loose.

Old Z-bars + welding machine = fixt.

 

[horseballz]

Mustang Jim,
I suggest that while you have it apart, remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced, $25-$35, well worth the effort/$$ to ensure trouble free clutch operation. While flywheel is off check for rear main seal leakage. A rear main leak can get oil onto flywheel/clutch surfaces, causing clutch chatter. Remember, also that valve covers leaking at the rear can sometimes make it seem that you have a rear main leak.
Just my $.02, HTH
Gene

 

[Mustang Jim]

Thanks for the advise. I forgot about resurfacing the flywheel. I had the flywheel resurfaced when I put in the current clutch.

Funny, but the current clutch, a remanufactured unit, chattered a bit from day one and got worse with time.

I think the rear main seal is still good as I have not seen any evidence of leakage. But, while everything is apart, that's my time to give the seal a close examination.

 

[horseballz]

Mustang Jim,
You might want to replace the pilot bushing/bearing, many don't. A loose fitting pilot shaft into the bushing/bearing can cause clutch chatter. Easy way to get the bushing out is to fill the cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then tap the clutch alignment tool into the bushing. The pressure should push the bushing out.
HTH
Gene

 

[D.Hearne]

Thanks for the advise. I forgot about resurfacing the flywheel. I had the flywheel resurfaced when I put in the current clutch.

Funny, but the current clutch, a remanufactured unit, chattered a bit from day one and got worse with time.

I think the rear main seal is still good as I have not seen any evidence of leakage. But, while everything is apart, that's my time to give the seal a close examination.

If that flywheel's been resurfaced more than once, replace it with a new one. Old, thin flywheels are dangerous.

 

[D.Hearne]

Mustang Jim,
You might want to replace the pilot bushing/bearing, many don't. A loose fitting pilot shaft into the bushing/bearing can cause clutch chatter. Easy way to get the bushing out is to fill the cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then tap the clutch alignment tool into the bushing. The pressure should push the bushing out.
HTH
Gene

Use bar soap instead of grease. Not nearly as messy to clean up.

 

[Mustang Jim]

Replacing the flywheel is a good suggestino. I had the flywheel resurfaced once and I'm sure that it was resurfaced once before by the previous owner. I will be sure to add a new flywheel to my parts list.

Thanks for the tips on getting out the pilot bearing.

 

[2+2GT]

I am planning on converting to dual exhaust and 4 barrel carb setup in the spring.

When you do, you'll need the dual exhaust rear hose, and the axle lines, underbody bracket, and long line extension to install them. If you don't do this, the hose will chafe on the LH tailpipe, potentially killing you.

You're looking at a couple hundred bucks for a new flywheel, typically these include a new ring gear, there's $40 right there. If there's any doubt about the wheel, get a new one.