Which cylinder heads is the best for 289 CID?

KaraKedi said:

Max 500 miles, i ran.
Could you give me some details about problems?
My camshaft is COMP Cams K31-242-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
And if i need to change studs, you can give me the summitracing item codes, that will be really great for me.

HERE ARE THE STUD NUMBERS: CCA-4504-16. THESE WILL NEED TO BE INSTALLED MY A MACHINESHOP. THE STOCK ROCKER STUDS ARE PRESSED INTO THE HEADS AND BIGGER AD MORE AGRESSIVE CAM PROFILES THAN STOCK TEND TO WORK THE STUDS OUT OF THE HEADS AS THERE'S NOTHING THAT POSITIVELY HOLDS THE STUDS IN PLACE, OTHER THAN FRICTION

You can give me the summitracing item codes, that will be really great for me. Some of rocker arms, i have to change my valve cover. If we need to, i change this with tall ones.

ROCKER ARMS : THESE AREN'T THE BEST (IN SOME PEOPLES OPINIONS) BUT THEY ARE GOOD ROCKERS, CRANE ENERGIZERS, SUMMIT PART NUMBER CRN-11746-16. THESE ARE BASICALLY THE SAME ROCKERS FORD USED ON THE 90'S COBRA 5.0'S I'M BEEN RUNNING A SET ON MY 89 RANGER'S 5.0 FOR ABOUT 8 YEARS NOW, I BOUGHT EM USED WITH ABOUT 100,000 MILES ON EM AND THEY SHOW NO SIGNS OF WEARING OUT

I'd like to install Limited Slip Differentials. There are two option.
One is EATON
Detroit Locker 912A616 - Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differentials - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Other one is AUBURN
Moser Engineering 542059 - Moser Engineering Auburn Pro Series Limited Slip Differentials - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Which one is better?
JUST ME, BUT I'D GO WITH THE DETRIOT LOCKER. THEY DON'T HAVE CLUTCHES THAT WEAR OUT.
And 3.25:1 Ratio gear (i dont want to loose my top speed more)
Strange Engineering RS07880325 - Strange Pro Street Ring and Pinion Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Regads,
Musa

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3.25's are fine, seeing as your rear gear now is likely 2.79's. If you do more city driving, 3.50's or 3.70's would be better.

Dont forget guide plates! if you buy aftermarket heads they will have guideplates and screw in studs already.

If you are putting screw in studs in a stock head, guide plates are not necessary. They are only $25 bucks and when machining for the studs they can be added if you like.

robbz28 said:

If you are putting screw in studs in a stock head, guide plates are not necessary. They are only $25 bucks and when machining for the studs they can be added if you like.

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Depends on which heads he's got. If they're pre April 66 heads, no guide plates needed. After that date in time, all require guide plates if not using the stock rockers.

KaraKedi said:

I have original heads (1965).
If guides plates are applicable for 65's head and better than install studs w/o guides plates i will buy.
Suggestion?

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No guide plates needed on 65 heads.

I think the question for heads is "will I be happier with '____', or happiest with '______'.

I have stayed out of this thread mostly, as I understand you are in Turkey, and have very limited ability to get the full advantage of your performance gains! My free advice, is to look at the 185's, as the last major cost for the engine. If you have the money to spend, I'd look at a 5 speed, and steeper gears, I.E., 3.73 VS a 3.50 or 3.55. My 68 cougar has the Edelbrock cam, (.496/.520), similar to yours. I have the T5 transmission and 3.50 gears, with rebuilt not ported stock cast iron heads. I have a pair of Edelbrock heads to go on the engine, and I feel like I am very under geared with the 3.50's. I know for "quick on the street" rear end gears are the single best bang for the buck.
So, if you don't mind spending the money, and you want to be quick, a 3.73 or 3.89 gears, and the 5 speed transmission will get you where you want to be. I do not think you need to spend any more money on the motor. Also, there is a guy on ebay that is selling 8 and 9 inch limited slip differentials for 325.00 dollars, new.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220712474878&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT