Which flywheel for T-5 Swap: I have my engine casting number

[monk302]

Alright so I now have my engine casting number. It is C8OE-6015A.

With this in hand along with the following post from 6Stang7. I have determined that my engine is from a 1968 Ford Fairlane. Therefore, I think I will need a 28oz 157 tooth flywheel. Can someone tell me if this is correct? Additionally and more importantly where to get a new flywheel for this application. I was planning on getting it at the local Ford dealership. Does someone have a part number that I would use? What should I expect to pay? I have looked in magazines like Jegs and all they have are performance units. I would prefer just to use a stock replacement part. Thanks everyone


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Use this handy chart to decode all of the Ford part numbers. For example a 1968 200 6 head part number: C8DZ-6049-C

The first two digits indicate the decade and the year;
A = 40's
B = 50's
C = 60's
D = 70's
E = 80's
F = 90's
G = 00's

So the first two digits indicate that it is a "C" 60's and a "8" so that tells us it is a 68 head.

The third digit designates the vehicle model line;
A = Ford full size (Galaxie)
B = Bronco (70-75)
C = Torino/Elite
D = Falcon
E = Escort
F = Pinto, Maverick, Late model Falcon
G = Early Comet (61-68), Montego, Cyclone (69-76)
H = Medium & heavy duty truck
J = Industrial
K = Edsel
L = Lincoln (58-60)
M = Mercury
O = Fairlane (62-68), Torino (69-76)
R = Capri
S = Thunderbird
T = F series or Bronco
U = Econoline van
V = Lincoln
W = Cougar
Z = Mustang

So the third digit indicates that it "D" was off a Falcon.

The fourth digit designates the engineering group;
A = Chassis
B = Body
E = Engine

Or if it's a service replacement part;
M = Ford Motorsport or FFRP
X = Original Ford racing program/Muscle Parts
Y = Lincoln-Mercury
Z = Ford

So the fourth digit indicates that it was a "Z" Ford replacement part.

The next 4 numbers (6049) indicates the Ford "group number" for a head

The last digit "C" on the end of the part number indicates that this part was in its third revision. If revised again it would turn into a "D" and so on. When they reach the end of the alphabet they started over with AA, BB and so on as shown in this "example" part number: D7BE-6090-AB.

Our example part number C8DZ-6049-C decodes as;

C8 = 68
D = Falcon
Z = Ford replacement part
6049 = Head group part number
C = 3rd revision

 

[LMan]

If I were you, and if you are using a 5.0 bell (I dont know your setup, so Im flying blind here), Id use a 5.0 flywheel rebalanced to 28oz so you can use a diaphragm clutch and the greater variety of clutch/pp packages avail for the later-model setup.

 

[monk302]

If I were you, and if you are using a 5.0 bell (I dont know your setup, so Im flying blind here), Id use a 5.0 flywheel rebalanced to 28oz so you can use a diaphragm clutch and the greater variety of clutch/pp packages avail for the later-model setup.

Well I just bought a Ford Racing Clutch and Pressure plate for a 5.0 from CJ Pony Parts. I figured I could use that with any flywheel as long as it was a 28 oz imbalance with 157 teeth. Can a machine shop rebalance a flywheel from a 50 oz to a 28 oz? I thought I would be better off to start with a 28 oz.

My setup is going to be as follows:
89 T-5 from a GT
Stock Bellhousing from 89
Ford Racing Clutch/Pressure Plate
Mustang Steve Cable Clutch
Steel Throwout Bearing Retainer
Ministarter for 157 tooth (I have used this with my C4 for about a year now)

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

If I were you, and if you are using a 5.0 bell (I dont know your setup, so Im flying blind here), Id use a 5.0 flywheel rebalanced to 28oz so you can use a diaphragm clutch and the greater variety of clutch/pp packages avail for the later-model setup.

That's what i did.

 

[D.Hearne]

Yea, your block's casting # indicates it was DESIGNED for a 68 Fairlane, that doesn't mean that's what Ford stuck it in back in whatever the date code says it was cast on. --------------------------- Any competent auto machine shop that does engine balance work can rebalance a 50 oz/in flywheel to 28 oz/in. That's what I did with the one I've got behind my 331 stroker. Otherwise, you can basically forget the idea of ordering a replacement flywheel from Ford, that part is long out of date and to them, obsolete.

 

[67efivert]

just had mine rebalanced too seemed to work great for me

 

[351LX]

My Ford racing catalog lists a 157 tooth 28 oz flywheel for 351w motors and pre 1981 302's but it is billet steel and SFI rated so it probably isn't cheap M-6375-A302.

 

[monk302]

How much you guys pay to get your flywheels rebalanced?

 

[D.Hearne]

Mine was done as part of the rest of the work on my 331, so I couldn't tell. The flywheel I used is a stock iron one Ford Racing sells for $100.

 

[monk302]

So currently I have a flywheel from an 89 5.0. I could just go get that one rebalanced right?

 

[D.Hearne]

yea, it just needs material taken out of the counterweight to reduce the counterweight to a 28oz/in balance.

 

[Loup-garou]

So currently I have a flywheel from an 89 5.0. I could just go get that one rebalanced right?

Yes. Also, do you have the dowel pins and pressure plate mounting bolts for that '89 flywheel? I believe Ford used 8mm metric bolts with integral lockwashers for that particular application.

Do a Google search for Ford Racing Parts No. M-6397-A-302 for the bolt and dowel kit (runs about $18.00 plus shipping). Note - that kit does not include the flywheel-to-crank bolts.

 

[D.Hearne]

Yes. Also, do you have the dowel pins and pressure plate mounting bolts for that '89 flywheel? I believe Ford used 8mm metric bolts with integral lockwashers for that particular application.

Do a Google search for Ford Racing Parts No. M-6397-A-302 for the bolt and dowel kit (runs about $18.00 plus shipping). Note - that kit does not include the flywheel-to-crank bolts.

The dowels are available from your local Ford dealer. Bolts can also be sourced locally in many cases.

 

[monk302]

So I am guessing this is what I need right. Why exactly do I need them. Are they only used on the late model flywheels? I haven't seen anyone else in their swaps mention them.

 

[D.Hearne]

Yea, the dowels are used on the 5.0 flywheels, I don't know when they first were used though. Somtime after the diaphram pressure plates were in use. The older Long style doesn't use them

 

[Loup-garou]

So I am guessing this is what I need right. Why exactly do I need them. Are they only used on the late model flywheels? I haven't seen anyone else in their swaps mention them.

The diaphragm type pressure plates, as sourced by Ford in the late-model cars, are precisely located by the dowel pins. It seems like the bolts would be enough, but I've seen a warning that said clutch chatter was likely if you didn't use the dowels. The Ford Racing flywheels have both bolt patterns - the one for Long-style pressure plates accepts SAE fasteners without dowels, while the one for diaphragm-style pressure plates uses the dowels and metric fasteners.

It depends on the flywheel. It's possible to use a diaphragm pressure plate on an older flywheel, but if you're going to use that late-model flywheel, you should go ahead and get the correct hardware.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've used the stock heavy duty 94-95 Stang clutch without the dowels and nothing happened. I'd prefer to use them, but it'll work without them.

 

[monk302]

Hey guys,

So I drove around talking to some machine shops today and they told me that it would be difficult to reduce my 50 oz to a 28 oz since they do not have my crank shaft to ensure it is balanced. Are they giving me bad information.

Where can I get a new 28 oz that doesn't cost an arm and leg?

 

[Pathfinder65]

I've gotten similar info. Unless of course the shop has the same kinda crank and harmonic balancer hanging around. I don't think they need yours specificaly.
Dave

 

[D.Hearne]

Yea, all they need is another 28 oz flywheel to check it against.