which m/c rod to use on disc brake conversion

[streamin along]

I just installed the rod and custom disc brake kit for my 66 this past weekend. I purchased a 75 granada disc brake master cylinder but I used a m/c rod from my
66 jelly jar m/c. Was this correct or should I have used the one that came with the granada m/c which was about 1/2 inch longer. The problem I'm having is the pedal is very soft and goes almost to the floor before applying any stopping pressure. Eveything was bled nad is manual brakes. Thanks Jason

 

[rbohm]

you still have air in the system, and perhaps even a leak. either rod works fine

 

[LMan]

did you bench-bleed the MC?

 

[streamin along]

I bled the m/c on the car before hooking up the lines. I was thinking I had air in the system also somewhere. I dont have any leaks in the system. This is what I've got 66 mustang fastback just got done replacing all the brake lines from the m/c back including the rubber one to the axle new rear shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware kits, installed rod and customs front disc kit and bought m/c from napa for 75 granda w/manual disc brakes. I ran a line to a tee block on the fender to the front discs, then from the m/c to a adjustable proportioning valve and then to the rear. I think I'll pull the m/c off tonight and bench bleed it b/c I'm thinking it might have some air trapped in it if thats possible. I went through a quart of fluid bleeding it since all the lines were new and didnt have any more air coming out thats why I think it might be in the m/c, Thanks again Jason

 

[LMan]

You can bleed it in the car, if you use two plastic lines to reroute the fluid back into the reservoirs.

 

[streamin along]

I already bled it in the car when I installed it by pushing the pedal down then putting finger over fitting where line hooks up and then releasing pedal and repeated untill fluid came out of fittings on m/c. will it not work this way? Then I bled the lines and calipers.

 

[rbohm]

you can bleed an m/c that way, but not as effectively as bech bleeding, where you redirect the output back into the reservour(sp?) untill you get nothing but fluid through the lines.

 

[68restoman]

I believe the main reason for bench bleeding the master out of the car is so you can get a full stroke of the piston. This forces out any air at the end of the bore beyond where it travels using the pedal.

This can't be done easily in the car because normally the pedal hits the floor first...

68Restoman

 

[Stangboy67]

I believe the main reason for bench bleeding the master out of the car is so you can get a full stroke of the piston. This forces out any air at the end of the bore beyond where it travels using the pedal.

This can't be done easily in the car because normally the pedal hits the floor first...

68Restoman

Exactly! I ran into this about 6 mounths ago installing my Scarebird setup. Thought I could get away with bleeding the m/c in the car and ended up with the same problem. So I pulled it and when I bench bleed it, the full stroke forced out a bunch of air. Worked great after that.

 

[Edbert]

Damn, I bled mine in the car, guess I'll need to pull it and do it on the table.

Did you have a helper or put it in a vise?

 

[Stangboy67]

Damn, I bled mine in the car, guess I'll need to pull it and do it on the table.

Did you have a helper or put it in a vise?

The vise worked nicely.

 

[68restoman]

Damn, I bled mine in the car, guess I'll need to pull it and do it on the table.

Did you have a helper or put it in a vise?

Use a vise but just clamp it on one of the mounting ears, not the body because you could possibly distort the bore especially if it's aluminum. A medium phillips screwdriver works well for pushing the piston in...

68Restoman

 

[Edbert]

Yeah, mine's aluminium, this is the one I have:

Pictures of it in the car here.