Which one Subframe connectors are better

Slow5.0

Active Member
Feb 13, 2003
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Portland, OR
I'm cheappo, so please don't says, thare is better one than those two for $150

I find those two subframe connectors ,price is almost same , but i was wandering which one would works better

I have to buy them today ,so let me know what you thinks guys
Thanks

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Whatever you get just make sure they are welded on, not bolted on.
Any welded subframe connector will provide noticeable chassis stiffening.
And like Juiced says, you can get full length ones for under $150.
Check out the Steeda, Kenny Brown, or Maximum Motorsports full lengths. I believe all of those are under $150.
 
Ernan, get the tubular style over a boxed steel set. The tubular are more resistant to bending and will add more stiffness to the car. DEFINITELY get FULL length as was mentioned and weld them in. I run global west full lengths on my car.
 
Of the two you are looking at, and only from the pictures to go on, I would say go with the top set. Those look like full length, and the bottom look short. They both could be welded on (which is a must). The top set also has a brace for the seats, which the bottom lacks.

I know you said you didn't want to hear about spending more cash, but my advice would be to go with Maximum Motorsports. The cost of subframes (even top quality) is truely cheap. And you weld em on. So you might as well do it right the first time, cause you are not gonna want to pull cheapies off anytime in the future.
 
I have global west's with the seat bracing. But there are 3 brands you can go with. Its Global West, Maximum Motorsports or Griggs. Any one of those brands will give you great quality stuff. Spend the extra $10-$40, you will be much happier in the end.
 
Killercanary said:
Ernan, get the tubular style over a boxed steel set. The tubular are more resistant to bending and will add more stiffness to the car. DEFINITELY get FULL length as was mentioned and weld them in. I run global west full lengths on my car.


I agree with Killercanary. I also run the global west full length. I had the local mustang shop - Horsepower by Herman - weld them in place for me. I'm sure you've seen several of his cars featured in MM&FF. I did my research as you are doing and found out that the tubular ones are less prone to bending. The global west subframe connectors is similar to roll cages and you know how they perform. And I agree with others, get the best you can now even if you had to save and wait another week or two. Peace.
 
Methodical said:
I agree with Killercanary. I also run the global west full length. I had the local mustang shop - Horsepower by Herman - weld them in place for me. I'm sure you've seen several of his cars featured in MM&FF. I did my research as you are doing and found out that the tubular ones are less prone to bending. The global west subframe connectors is similar to roll cages and you know how they perform. And I agree with others, get the best you can now even if you had to save and wait another week or two. Peace.
I disagree, at least in terms of the two subframes listed. The bottom set is tubular, but is clearly inferior. They are very short. Also, it looks like they really are the bolt in style, and there are no seat braces. For all three of those reasons, the top set wins regardless of any negligible advantage a tubular bar might add. In fact both sets look to be far on the cheap end of the spectrum. That at least answers the question posed by the poster.

Moving on the the theorical question of which style of subframe connector is best, which the poster specifically did not ask (in fact he asked people not to digress beyond the two subframe connector set listed), I think Methodical and Killercanary are on the right track. But I would say the things to look for in subframes (in order of significance) are: (1) weld in, (2) full length, (3) seat braces, and finally (4) brand or style (as in box or tube).

I think anyone with subframe connectors would agree that they are an important mod. Possibly one of the first 5 mods to make (certainly top 10) regardless of goals for the car. That said, don't cheap out on em. The difference between the cheapest set and top of the line is less than $100.
 
GRGT1994 said:
I disagree, at least in terms of the two subframes listed. The bottom set is tubular, but is clearly inferior. They are very short. Also, it looks like they really are the bolt in style, and there are no seat braces. For all three of those reasons, the top set wins regardless of any negligible advantage a tubular bar might add. In fact both sets look to be far on the cheap end of the spectrum. That at least answers the question posed by the poster.

Moving on the the theorical question of which style of subframe connector is best, which the poster specifically did not ask (in fact he asked people not to digress beyond the two subframe connector set listed), I think Methodical and Killercanary are on the right track. But I would say the things to look for in subframes (in order of significance) are: (1) weld in, (2) full length, (3) seat braces, and finally (4) brand or style (as in box or tube).

I think anyone with subframe connectors would agree that they are an important mod. Possibly one of the first 5 mods to make (certainly top 10) regardless of goals for the car. That said, don't cheap out on em. The difference between the cheapest set and top of the line is less than $100.

I have these CGS Subframe Connectors, and I assure you, they are much longer in person...they should be full length...you tell me...they were about 4 feet long..look closely at this pic, you can see them, I have nothing closer at this point, for pictures, will take some more tomorrow

HPIM1085.jpg


however, as previously stated, they don't have a seat brace, which is something I overlooked, but then bought a B-pillar floor bar to make up for the difference....really made a big diff. Also, the CGS connectors are weld or bolt on...I chose to weld, and they fit perfectly, no problems at all. :nice:
 

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