88stang88
5 Year Member
White Smoke from Tailpipes
- Thread starter Notchy Adam
- Start date
hey i just sloved the same prob,you have. when you get on it full throttle, and the smoke looks kinda like the smoke that spinning tires creates, your prob running rich, a rich mixture can cause whitish smoke.(not the realy thick antifreez smoke that fills the street) also if you drive the car for a short while and it makes you smell like you have been riding a dirt bike. then...... yeh. also im curiouse, are you noticing any black spots on the bumper, or a powdery carbon looking deposit near the rear of your car?
i changed my injectors and put in a AFPR(runs normal now)
it sounds like you can tell if it was water burning so its prob not.
i dont remeber what year you said it was. but if its EFI,
i hope that helps
oh yeh, i also found that my uper intake bolts were loose as hell so a vacum leak could have been part of it too. check all your vacum lines,and contributing componets.
thats all i have for ya.
i changed my injectors and put in a AFPR(runs normal now)
it sounds like you can tell if it was water burning so its prob not.
i dont remeber what year you said it was. but if its EFI,
i hope that helps
oh yeh, i also found that my uper intake bolts were loose as hell so a vacum leak could have been part of it too. check all your vacum lines,and contributing componets.
thats all i have for ya.
Notch Adam
both at idle and at full throttle this happens. Yes,, my clothes do smell slightly like that if I am in alot of stop and go and the vapors whip inside the car depending on how the air is blowing around. No black spots on the bumper, just alittle around the rim of the tailpipes but not black from being overly rich like you see on those kids with the ricers. It's a 1990 LX with original injectors, heads, upper and lower intake and heads on the top end...
Thanks GREYFOX4INCH
both at idle and at full throttle this happens. Yes,, my clothes do smell slightly like that if I am in alot of stop and go and the vapors whip inside the car depending on how the air is blowing around. No black spots on the bumper, just alittle around the rim of the tailpipes but not black from being overly rich like you see on those kids with the ricers. It's a 1990 LX with original injectors, heads, upper and lower intake and heads on the top end...
Thanks GREYFOX4INCH
i did not have smoke at idle so im not sure. my car was so rich that it would leave black stains on the pavement when idling for a while, like it was shooting flames or somthing. there are tests you can perform on your car without spending money. jrichker posted this in another thread.there are links at the bottom that explain testing for codes.
Injector test
1.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
There are two 10 pin connectors at the back of the upper manifold, one of them has all 8 injector connections. Pull them apart and check for damage. Each injector should ohm out at about 13 ohms +\- 1.5 ohms. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for a diagram & pinout
Remember that the computer supplies a ground path for the injectors. The power for the injectors comes through the ECC relay located on top of the computer. They have power to them any time the ignition is on. The computer turns on the ground and completes the circuit, making the injectors fire.
2.) Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Injector test
1.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
There are two 10 pin connectors at the back of the upper manifold, one of them has all 8 injector connections. Pull them apart and check for damage. Each injector should ohm out at about 13 ohms +\- 1.5 ohms. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for a diagram & pinout
Remember that the computer supplies a ground path for the injectors. The power for the injectors comes through the ECC relay located on top of the computer. They have power to them any time the ignition is on. The computer turns on the ground and completes the circuit, making the injectors fire.
2.) Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
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