Who here switched to synthetic under 100k

281CI96Coupe

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Oct 30, 2006
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Anyone had any problems from switching regular dino oil to synthetic under these miles? The only way I think it can cause harm if you have oil leaks that a plugged up with the deposits of dino oil. I also heard that you can't switch back from synthetic to dino oil. What do you guys think ultimately? Tech gurus are welcome to shed there knowledge to me and to rest of the board. :p

FYI: I think when i first bought my car 2yrs ago, it had synthetic and me by accident slowly weened it back to dino, i used synthetic blend, then went to regular dino oil. change my oil every 2500 miles for peace of mind and no leaks present. I want to change back, because overall its better.

-Nate
 
Switching from dino to syth and back to dino will have no adverse effects. We know syth is better, but regular works just fine. Keep it changed and it's cool. If you run your **** real hard put in the syth. And yes if you have plugged oil leaks it may cuz them to piss out alittle. But hey the way I see it is the syth oil is only letting you know you have a problem. I've run nothing but mobil 1 in mine since I got it and I can look down my oil filler neck and can see the aluminum in the cylnder head is bright, shinny and clean. It's worth it to me.
 
Why would anyone not run synthetic???? Makes no sence to me since we all know how much better it is. (- the blower guys)
Although my turbos im sure have simular seals and they dont mind synthetic oil....not sure what the big deal is with blowers and synthetic.

I HATE having to run that crap in my bike even....but I HAVE to due to the synthetic being so good at lubrication, that my clutch will actually start slipping if I use it.
 
I hardly ever run the same oil twice in a row. I switch from synthetic
to conventional to a blend over and over, as well as change weights
from summer to winter. The last 2 changes I have been running
5 quarts of valvaline 5w20 conventional with 1 quart 5w30 valvaline synthetic
mixed in. Wont hurt nuthin. Just change it every 3 to 5 k
 
no one is going to argue that synth isn't a superior oil........

but at the same time, I don't see as how it's needed if you change your oil frequently. I think is all you'll be doing is spending more money.

I've run conventional oil in all vehicles that came that way from the factory and have never had an oil related issue.:shrug:
 
When I used to work at brenspeed we did a synthetic oil test on the dyno. We did a base pull with regular oil, then changed another pull after a synthetic oil change. We used Royal purple, and gained 10 HP on a lightly modded 05 GT. Needless to say Brenspeed now sells Royal Purple.
 
Alot of this is dependent on what type of base oil is used in the brand of synthetic oil you have selected. All synthetics use a type III or type IV base oil. Type III is petroleum formulated based and a type IV is chemically formulated based and always contains POAs. Some synthetic oil companies have switched to less expensive Type III base and have added POA. Extensive testing was done between the two base types as the real synthetic companies(Type IV), as they called themselves cried foul, but there were no performances differences found between the two. The only difference noted was in seal swelling. So in response to your original question, seal swelling and distortion are a real possibilty in a high mileage engine. Internally, there should be no differences. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but I haven't heard any of the forced induction manufacturers recommending the non-use of synthetic. I know ATI recommends synthetics when using their superchargers, as well as others. Different strokes...10 hp is a pretty generous number for synthetic oil useage with mild mods.
 
I just change my oil once a year because I don't drive my car more than 1K per year. I change oil in the spring, get the summer out of it, let it sit all winter, then change it next springs. Condensation build up is a bad thing.