whos got flaming river rack

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i've been doing research on these. Everyone seems to agree both hands on the wheel slow speeds, however, easy once you get going.

the newer flaming river racks have the quick ratio steering, so it should be right around the turning radius of a stock 5.0
 
I put one on my 88 recently. You'll need both hands to turn the wheel at slow speeds. It takes some getting used to but it's not bad at all. I don't think I'd want the manual steering for a daily driver though.
 
I have it installed on my 89 GT and I love it...I used to have it(manual steering) on a pickup years ago and am used to it...I use it as a daily driver and have no problems..It's also the quick ratio rack which I believe is 2.25 lock to lock.(Don't quote me on that) If your a strong person you wont have a problem. I can almost use one hand when stopped but why bother...Im not looking for a workout when driving.
Anyway it is a great way to drop weight if you don't mind a little effort to turn the wheel...again when moving it's very easy to turn.
 
mitsurugi_78 said:
I have it installed on my 89 GT and I love it...I used to have it(manual steering) on a pickup years ago and am used to it...I use it as a daily driver and have no problems..It's also the quick ratio rack which I believe is 2.25 lock to lock.(Don't quote me on that) If your a strong person you wont have a problem. I can almost use one hand when stopped but why bother...Im not looking for a workout when driving.
Anyway it is a great way to drop weight if you don't mind a little effort to turn the wheel...again when moving it's very easy to turn.

I also have the quick ratio rack, but mine has a weird on-center feel. You can turn the wheel about a quarter of an inch or more either way while on-center before it catches. Anyone else have this problem?
 
mattsstang87 said:
I also have the quick ratio rack, but mine has a weird on-center feel. You can turn the wheel about a quarter of an inch or more either way while on-center before it catches. Anyone else have this problem?

Thats because of the offset design of the steering shaft in the steering wheel itself. If you installed an aftermarket sterring wheel, you will see what im talking about. some JB weld will fix it.
 
mattsstang87 said:
Do you know what the modification consists of?

For aftermarket steeringwheels, you need to remove the center hub to gain access to the steeringwheel BOLT. Remove the bolt completely, i believe its a 5/8. once its removed, you can see how the offset steering shaft has a gap in it that allows the steering wheel to rotate on it before it catches cand actually turns the shaft. You can fill that gap with some jb weld, some sort of metal, or make something to fill the gap with, and it will eliminate the slack in the wheel. Good luck
 
I have the 18:1 rack and I'm a road racer. I like the feedback the manual rack gives. Some people say they lost some time on track after installing a manual rack, but I feel it makes me a smoother driver. A smoother driver is a faster driver. It's that simple. Knowing exactly what the front suspension/wheels are doing makes it easier to prevent overcorrection and other issues that the slushpump power rack has to overcome.
 
sirsureshot39 said:
One more thing, you can also tighten down the steering bolt to remove the "play", but doing so will cause it to ride very tight on the column and will steer very stiff, which isnt good.

Thanks a lot! That is a real time saver. I would have figured it out by taking it apart, but my ego is not too big to ask some help from someone who has done it before. Again, thanks for the help. That slop drives me crazy!!!!
 
88blown50GT said:
I have the 18:1 rack and I'm a road racer. I like the feedback the manual rack gives. Some people say they lost some time on track after installing a manual rack, but I feel it makes me a smoother driver. A smoother driver is a faster driver. It's that simple. Knowing exactly what the front suspension/wheels are doing makes it easier to prevent overcorrection and other issues that the slushpump power rack has to overcome.

Is the reason you've switched to a manual rack is because the power steering seems to be overly sensitive at speed. I've noticed on my car after doing my brake conversion and installing bigger tires, that the steering is very sensitive at highway speeds, it could be very easy to over correct.
 
dartman, I didn't have problems like you've mentioned because I have a quick release steering wheel and I can install the steering wheel in any direction to get the wheel centered in relationship to the rack position.

boomr: Yes, the stock power steering is twitchy and it's overdriven. It's nearly impossible to be 100% accurate with the stock power rack. That's why I chose the manual rack, which is at least a 500% improvement in the "twitchiness" area and it's more precise. I can feel the front suspension when I want to and when I don't (i.e. going straight) it's a smooth as silk.
 
88blown50GT said:
boomr: Yes, the stock power steering is twitchy and it's overdriven. It's nearly impossible to be 100% accurate with the stock power rack. That's why I chose the manual rack, which is at least a 500% improvement in the "twitchiness" area and it's more precise. I can feel the front suspension when I want to and when I don't (i.e. going straight) it's a smooth as silk.

Thanks, that kind of what I was wondering, now I just have to figure out where & when to fit that project into the budget.