Yeah, I think I'll do that for now. But I still need to use 10g wire from the relay boards to the fan, right?
The Lincoln Mark VIII fan will draw continuous currents of 33A@12.0V & 42A@14.4V, and has a starting current in excess of 100A.
If you are going to use a relay, there are few that will handle this. The Bosch 75A relay (0-332-002-156) rated for motor loads will work.
The Derale PWM controller will work without relays.
The Bosch relay is not cheap, about $40 on Amazon. or eBay.
If you are going to use a relay, there are few that will handle this. The Bosch 75A relay (0-332-002-156) rated for motor loads will work.
The Derale PWM controller will work without relays.
The Bosch relay is not cheap, about $40 on Amazon. or eBay.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm gonna be tackling the Mark VIII install here soon and just looking for some advice on my current plan and fuse and relay choice.
I found this 80 amp relay on Amazon (Ehdis [1 Pack] Car Truck Motor Heavy Duty Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire) and wondering if there's any reason I would need to use the much more expensive Bosch one @Blown88GT listed above? I want to do this right and will shell out the extra for the Bosch relay if I have to but want to make sure it's necessary before I do.
I'm going to pick up 8ga wire for the power and ground connections and wondering if this inline 60amp fuse holder (8 Gauge MAXI Inline Fuse Holder Fuseholder with cover and (1) 60 Amp) would do the trick between the battery and relay?
Finally, to make removing the radiator/fan assembly easier, I was looking at adding an 8ga quick disconnect (6-10 GAUGE Driver Battery Quick Connect Plug Kit Recovery Winch Trailer 120 amps) for the power/ground connection between the relay and fan so I can simply unplug it if I ever need to.
I currently have a smaller 30amp relay set up to turn on my existing smaller electric fans which is triggered by temperature sensor input in my PiMPxs ECU so I'm planning on just using the output from that relay to trigger the beefier 75-80 amp relay.
Do you guys see any issues or holes in my plan? I was considering starting a new thread for these questions but figured I'd try posting here first. Thanks!
I found this 80 amp relay on Amazon (Ehdis [1 Pack] Car Truck Motor Heavy Duty Heavy Duty 5-Pin 80A 12V On/Off Normally Open SPDT Relay Socket Plug 5 Wire) and wondering if there's any reason I would need to use the much more expensive Bosch one @Blown88GT listed above? I want to do this right and will shell out the extra for the Bosch relay if I have to but want to make sure it's necessary before I do.
I'm going to pick up 8ga wire for the power and ground connections and wondering if this inline 60amp fuse holder (8 Gauge MAXI Inline Fuse Holder Fuseholder with cover and (1) 60 Amp) would do the trick between the battery and relay?
Finally, to make removing the radiator/fan assembly easier, I was looking at adding an 8ga quick disconnect (6-10 GAUGE Driver Battery Quick Connect Plug Kit Recovery Winch Trailer 120 amps) for the power/ground connection between the relay and fan so I can simply unplug it if I ever need to.
I currently have a smaller 30amp relay set up to turn on my existing smaller electric fans which is triggered by temperature sensor input in my PiMPxs ECU so I'm planning on just using the output from that relay to trigger the beefier 75-80 amp relay.
Do you guys see any issues or holes in my plan? I was considering starting a new thread for these questions but figured I'd try posting here first. Thanks!
Just happened to stumble upon this when "fixing" one of my computers.
1. I would not recommend using relays for this fan. Use a soft start controller, DCC FK-45 or Derale (which is a DCC design under license).
2. You won't need the PiMPxs ECU to trigger the fan if you use a soft start controller.
3. You can mount the controller right on the fan shroud. I actually attached it to a scrap piece of aluminum extrusion to aid in cooling (probably not necessary).
1. I would not recommend using relays for this fan. Use a soft start controller, DCC FK-45 or Derale (which is a DCC design under license).
2. You won't need the PiMPxs ECU to trigger the fan if you use a soft start controller.
3. You can mount the controller right on the fan shroud. I actually attached it to a scrap piece of aluminum extrusion to aid in cooling (probably not necessary).
Thanks for the response @Blown88GT . Since I already have the ECU set up to trigger my existing fans, I'm not really looking to add an additional fan controller. Plus I like having the flexibility via the ECU to trigger them for whatever conditions I want to define as well as visually being able to see when they are on/off via the tuning software dashboard.
Is there a reason to avoid using a relay for the Mark VIII fan in particular?
I'm just trying to avoid buying a controller if I can accomplish the same result via a relay/fuse combination, provided it is safe to run it that way.
I went through 2 fan controllers, 1 of which was a Derale. They can't handle the amp draw. Going to 10g wire and using a toggle to activate the relay(Leash Electronics single 70a relay board) is working great for me. I also have a 100a breaker between the fan and the relay board. I just got my PiMPxs today(It literally came in the mail today)and I have been communicating with Stinger about my fan setup and they said just run the fan wiring that comes in the harness to the wiring I have setup. I ordered the engine harness for the PiMPxs also. So I'm going to go that route.
Just in case you haven't already upgraded the alternator to a 3G or other high current alternator, plan on doing so.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
Rear window defroster = 5 amps (optional, not found on most southern fox mustangs unless the car moved down with the snowbird owner…)
That's grand total of 79 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
Rear window defroster = 5 amps (optional, not found on most southern fox mustangs unless the car moved down with the snowbird owner…)
That's grand total of 79 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
Congrats on the PiMPxs arriving, you're gonna love it! I'm following your build thread so looking forward to seeing your progress with it, especially since you're using their engine harness too.
So it sounds like I need a relay that will handle the continuous current of the Mark VIII fans and then some kind of breaker or fuse between that and the starter solenoid? I looked up Leash 70a relay and found this, is it what you're using?
Haha yes I did see it, but only took note of the fan itself (and the crazy amount of air it pulls!) and not the wiring config you used. Do you run the relays directly to the starter solenoid/battery or have a fuse in between? Do you think these (nice and cheap) relays wired in parallel would do the trick since they're rated at 80 amps each?
Yes I already have a 3g 130 amp alternator installed. Thanks for the controller schematic offer but I don't trust my electrical abilities enough to want to build one from scratch
Relays are a "hard" start, PWM controllers are a "soft start". My PWM has led indicator mounted in dash.
Hard start is 100+ amps, soft start is 65 amps.
PWM is variable speed, controlled automatically.
FWIW...I am using the Mark fan and went DCC. Then burnt it up after 2 seasons with less then 2K miles. It was late fall when it went, so after no response from Brian over the winter I was done with him. I bought a flexolite controler and the only issue I had was I blew the 40 amp maxi fuse after a year or 2. Per there customer service, went to a 50amp and all has been well ever since.
Also I did snag a cheap fan off Rock auto when they were doing a closeout and replaced the original motor.
Also I did snag a cheap fan off Rock auto when they were doing a closeout and replaced the original motor.