Why does my 5.0 run like S***??
- Thread starter mx512racer
- Start date
NKau
Founding Member
Start with the basics. Dump the codes from your computer, and see what comes up. Checking timing may be difficult if your engine is older, and the balancer has 'slipped' a little which is fairly typical. To time it in sort of a 'hack' manner, you can scribe a mark on the base of your distributor, and a matching mark on the engine block at the base of the distributor. From there, you can slowly advance/retard timing, and if it just makes things worse, you can set the timing back to where you started based on the marks you made.
Wallzy
New Member
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
93gtmustang
10 Year Member
- Oct 21, 2006
- 515
- 43
- 49
Also, to most folks, sounding good at idle means lopey. A miss at idle equates to crappy performance and sputtering under throttle. As part of Jrichker's code pulling process, I would run a cylinder balance test to see if all cylinders are contributing equally. The test takes a couple minutes and you just have to stand there while the puter does its thing.
Good luck.
Good luck.
blackened88lx
Active Member
I would just start with a tune up like everyone suggested. Plugs, wires, cap & rotor, fuel filter, check/bump timing, and check the IAC.
Still dump the codes Just cuz the light is not on doesn't mean there aren't any codes.
Plus 86-88's done have a MIL.
What type of plugs are you running? Are they gaped to 0.054". Hopefully they aren't Bosch +4's.
Also your wires ok?
Fuel filter recently changed?
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