Why is my clutch pedal still hard to push in?

[5spd GT]

Well last year we replaced a older stock clutch with a new NAPA clutch and it helped lighten the firmness a bit...and my car has also got a UPR adjustable quadrant and my clutch pedal is considerably harder to push in than my friends 90 gt with a Centerforce DF? Is it my clutch cable?...clutch pedal assembly?...and you can hear a creaking when you push in the cluth (the further it goes...the noise picks up slightly)...is that the cable stretching?

Any suggestions would be great...

 

[ECU5.0]

more than likely its the clutch cable binding up due to the clutch quadrant not lining up with the hole in the firewall....trying adjusting where the quadrant is by pushing it over and see if that helps

 

[v8only]

Also, you have to consider that the centerforce dual friction clutch is THE lightest mustang clutch I have ever fealt. My brother has one in his notch, and I swear it's almost as light as a honda. Check what ecu said. Also, a major factor could be cable routing. check to be sure your cable is routed far enough away from your headers, past the shock tower, down towards the steering rack, and UNDER the car right around the oil filter/steering rack, then follows along the bottom of the car to the clutch fork. if it's routed any other way, you could be binding, if it shows heat wear from the headers, you could have messed it up that way.

I've got creaking and groaning in my cable too. I've had it for a long, long time. It's the original issue 1986 oem cable with nearly 200k on it and no problems so far. If your trans is shifting ok, is not difficult to get into gear, does not have excessive grind in reverse, and does NOT pick up right off the floor, I wouldn't worry about it.

If you feel your cable is shot, pick up only an oem replacement cable, no vatozone cables get one from MM, or diversified for around $40.

you may just have a stiffer clutch, those centerforces are pretty nice.

 

[5spd GT]

I know for a fact my clutch is to hard to push compared to a stock feel...even stock his was softer...than mine is...and my left leg gets sore and I'm not a "weiny" ...and when I push in the clutch it isn't a smooth push or release...for example...when you release it it almost catches in certain spots...very light but noticeable...I'll have to check that firewall hole...will I be able to see it by the clutch pedal assembly...tight fit I know...but I'm sure me and a flashlight can squeeze under there...my cable does have a awkard looking bend in it...it curves on top of the k-member...isn't it supposed to go through something or underneath it?

Since my clutch has been slipping the last week or so since I installed the FTI combo...I need to replace the clutch anyways...probably going to get a Spec Stage 1, FRPP driveshaft, and a OEM cable correct?...wouldn't that be the best in my case...go get a OEM cable (100+ bucks though )...or do I need a "special" cable for the UPR adjustable firewall quadrant (installed by previous owner)...?

 

[v8only]

use only an oem cable with that setup. Don't buy them from ford, you can get the same oem cable from max motorsports or diversified(buyfordmotorsports.com) for $40.

YOu've just old me your problem. Your clutch cable is misrouted. that's exactly how I had mine routed once, and it was a MAJOR bitch to push in, and I'm a 250 pound dude. it doesn't route on TOP of the k member, it routes UNDER the k member. This will provide a bigger loop, and no binding. jack your stang up this weekend, pull the cable off at the clutch fork, bring that cable out, then stick it down right where the oil filter is, and route it under the k member from there. I'll bet tonights 12 pack on the fact that it will solve your clutch pedal effort problem. Sorry about the slipping clutch though.

let me know how that works!!

 

[5spd GT]

use only an oem cable with that setup. Don't buy them from ford, you can get the same oem cable from max motorsports or diversified(buyfordmotorsports.com) for $40.

YOu've just old me your problem. Your clutch cable is misrouted. that's exactly how I had mine routed once, and it was a MAJOR bitch to push in, and I'm a 250 pound dude. it doesn't route on TOP of the k member, it routes UNDER the k member. This will provide a bigger loop, and no binding. jack your stang up this weekend, pull the cable off at the clutch fork, bring that cable out, then stick it down right where the oil filter is, and route it under the k member from there. I'll bet tonights 12 pack on the fact that it will solve your clutch pedal effort problem. Sorry about the slipping clutch though.

let me know how that works!!

I thought the $40 dollar one fromt them was a remanufactured one (look-a-like)...clutch cable?...I'm low on money so that is good

Well I don't know if that is the reason...be nice if it was ...the only problem is the clutch cable holder in the engine bay only goes on one way because of two little holes (one for the bolt and the other for alignment) and it looks awkward...do you got a pic of how yours is routed...so it goes under the k-member...?

Anything I need to mark before removing the cable?
Thanks...

 

[iwashmycar]

Pbobably binding....
Mine creaked like that too, but mine was the firewall. It was all cracked and bent in, so I had to fab up a piece to strengthen it and attach my FWA to. Still pops every once in a while because of the cracks.....

-Adam.

 

[Stump1000]

I always heard UPR cables suck. I used a New Zoom cable and new quadrant to fix my problem. Had two problems, the gay cable i had was wore out and coming apart inside and the quadrant had only one hole in it and had slipped off the clutch pedal a little bit. That made it pull the cable at an angle. Bad design, i changed it.

 

[v8only]

I thought the $40 dollar one fromt them was a remanufactured one (look-a-like)...clutch cable?...I'm low on money so that is good

Well I don't know if that is the reason...be nice if it was ...the only problem is the clutch cable holder in the engine bay only goes on one way because of two little holes (one for the bolt and the other for alignment) and it looks awkward...do you got a pic of how yours is routed...so it goes under the k-member...?

Anything I need to mark before removing the cable?
Thanks...

i;ll be out all weekend, I can't get a pic till sund night or so. Try re routing it under your k member as suggested. It should go unless you ahve a very different setup, or an early 4 eye setup.

 

[Shauns GT]

I've got creaking and groaning in my cable too. I've had it for a long, long time. It's the original issue 1986 oem cable with nearly 200k on it and no problems so far. If your trans is shifting ok, is not difficult to get into gear, does not have excessive grind in reverse, and does NOT pick up right off the floor, I wouldn't worry about it.

My car has all the above problems. What does this mean for my cable?

 

[v8only]

If you are having diff getting into gear, grinding excessively in reverse, and picking right up off the floor, your clutch adjustment is way too loose. If you have the factory setup, pull up on the clutch pedal and depress it. If this does not fix the problem, you need an adjustable clutch setup. your cable is probably ok, just pick up a clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster and tighten your cable adjustment

read my article
http://50stangs.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html

note, I have revised my entire article to reflect a bunch of new stuff I've learned, but haven't uploaded my new article yet. The old one still has all the info you need though. Of course, with any reading, it's meant as a guide, and not the last word in the subject.

 

[FLlx5.0]

my car does the same thing its a stock clutch and its freking killing me i drive a lot or in heavy stop and go traffic. also when i try and go into reverse it always grinds.

 

[00 Red SS]

my car does the same thing its a stock clutch and its freking killing me i drive a lot or in heavy stop and go traffic. also when i try and go into reverse it always grinds.

Go to 5th and then drop to reverse i dont know why but it doesnt grind when i do it this way may work for you too. Every car is different on clutch pedal stiffness i have a spec stg 1 and its perfect for me right now easy pedal and all i drove a buddies car with 3550 and spec stg 3 it had a softer pedal then mine

 

[Grn92LX]

Check the firewall bushing on the clutch cable right where it goes in the firewall. I bet that its crushed. It SHOULD be replaced with a firewall adjuster. It could also be your cable fraying and getting cluser to breaking. Do you notice if it grabs lower?

 

[5spd GT]

Just for some more info...(the previous owner did auto-5spd swap)...and I'm using a 95 T-5 transmission...

 

[Grn92LX]

Check what I said and then post back..

 

[5spd GT]

Don't know exactly where that firewall bushing is...I'm guessing your meaning on the inside by the quadrant...I'll check tomorrow if I remember...

 

[Grn92LX]

Right where the cable goes into the dash. Go under the hood and check it, very easy. I'd recommend a firewall adjuster, definatly a good mod since hard clutches break the rubber bushing easily.

 

[5spd GT]

Right where the cable goes into the dash. Go under the hood and check it, very easy. I'd recommend a firewall adjuster, definatly a good mod since hard clutches break the rubber bushing easily.

I have a firewall adjuster...so it it is under the hood where it goes in...I thought you were meaning it was on the otherside of the firewall (interior under dash)...

 

[Grn92LX]

Oh, I didn't know that. I know my car squeeks when the pedal goes down. Never looked into it, figured its normal. Hopefully the tremec tko will be in soon. I'll be replacing a bunch of stuff while im there.