I have an Autometer Oil TEMPATURE (not Pressure) gauge in my 90 gt. In 1st and second gear just strolling around town, the car always runs at 210 Degrees and higher, and the car runs BAD at these temps. But when i get into 4th and 5th on the highway it drops considerably to 160-170, and the cars runs Very smooth. SO how can i drop the Oil temps in town, what can i do to make it no run so hot....
Why is my Oil Tempature so hot?
- Thread starter 00-Saleen
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You could try an oil cooler I suppose? Not sure if that's the cause of the problem though. What's your coolant temp like around town? It should be higher because of the increased workload obviously, but it could maybe indicate some blocked passages in your radiator? I'm not really too sure on this one, but that definitely seems high for a Fox Mustang. I know the 94-95's run hotter for some reason.
Hot oil temps are normal in the 5.0L. The oil can easily reach 250*, so you are doing quite well.
If it bothers you, an FRPP stacked plate oil cooler would really help out. If I ever get the cash for braided line, I will do one myself (I almost refuse to use rubber line). Synthetic oil can withstand higher temps as well (I would not want a thinner dino oil to see sustained 250*F temps).
In any case, oil temps can be as much as 75*F hotter than coolant temps, so that part is not super unusual.
Good luck.
If it bothers you, an FRPP stacked plate oil cooler would really help out. If I ever get the cash for braided line, I will do one myself (I almost refuse to use rubber line). Synthetic oil can withstand higher temps as well (I would not want a thinner dino oil to see sustained 250*F temps).
In any case, oil temps can be as much as 75*F hotter than coolant temps, so that part is not super unusual.
Good luck.
00-Saleen said:
Odd, my engine smoothes out once the oil temp gets OVER 190F. Everything I have read (several auto engineering textbooks and SAE published papers) indicate that higher oil temp will improve performance and economy. The trick is not getting too high, and destroying the oil. Most of the too high numbers that I have heard have been around 265Ffor dino oil, and some what higher for synthetics. It has also been noted that cylinder bore wear increases sharply when running temps drop below 180-190F. Ideal oil temps will be around 200F to 230F for power and efficiency.
I would suspect that there is another problem causing the oil temp to fluctuate. Once my oil temp gets up to about 210F to 220F it stays there, regardless of driving conditions. Then again I am running a 197 coolant stat. What temp is your stat, and how do your coolant temps behave when your oil temps shift around?
Sorry I can't help more, but I think the oil temp is more of a symptom, rather than the illness. Can you describe the "running bad" condition a little more?
jason
I have the FRPP oil cooler. I used the rubber hoses, they are really tough but would perfer braided ones instead. I didn't have a gauge, but you can tell a difference, especailly if you touch a valve cover, after running for hours I could put my hand on one and keep it there for a while.
Think about this, your coolant only cools the non-contact side of the cylinder bores, and the heads. What about your crank, rods, and pistons, they are no where near the coolant and yet get very hot.
Think about this, your coolant only cools the non-contact side of the cylinder bores, and the heads. What about your crank, rods, and pistons, they are no where near the coolant and yet get very hot.
00-Saleen said:
Well you got me stumped!
I have no idea how (other than warmup) your coolant temp can be at 160-170 when you have a 180 stat. Maybe the problem is more with the gauges?
Hopefully someone else will have some ideas.
jason
00-Saleen said:
Neither teh electric fan nor the defroster have anything to do with oil temp. Defrosters get their heat from the coolant, not the oil. and the Elec fan is for hte coolant not the oil. Oil should be hot as should the coolant. It's myth that cooler is better. There is a range that is within spec and that's where you want to be. Sounds like both your coolant and your oil temp is within spec. As long as they are within spec any carrectoristics your car displays consistently are just traits of your particular car. Don't worry about it too much.
If you are concerned enough..... get a stacked plate oil cooler, put it in and stop worrying.
Also it sounds like you are talking about water temps when you are talking about oil temps. Exactly what guages do you have? Water temp, oil pressure, oil temp, etc...???
oil temp sending unit
where is your oil temp sensor hooked up? is it mechanical or electric. this makes a difference in what your reading on the guage. are you running both an aftermarket oiltemp and coolant temp guage? because 210 is kinda low for oil pan temps, sounds more like oil line (out of oil cooler) temps. if thats the case earls sells a oil line thermostat bypass or a thermostatic adaptor plate that will bypass the cooler until the temp reaches 190deg f. chris
where is your oil temp sensor hooked up? is it mechanical or electric. this makes a difference in what your reading on the guage. are you running both an aftermarket oiltemp and coolant temp guage? because 210 is kinda low for oil pan temps, sounds more like oil line (out of oil cooler) temps. if thats the case earls sells a oil line thermostat bypass or a thermostatic adaptor plate that will bypass the cooler until the temp reaches 190deg f. chris
Oil pressure is FAR more importent than oil temperature. High oil temps may cause the oil to breakdown faster, but a sudden drop in oil pressue can spell disaster for an engine. If high oil temps occur in daily situations their is a much larger problem looming soemplace. If you are in a racing situation, oil temp is ok, but PSI is still far more importent to know.
If you run an oil pressure guage and you normally see 50-60psi and all of a sudden you can't get more than 40psi, you know you gotta problem and can stop (or not race, etc...) and save a possibly expensive engien rebuild. If that same situation with only an oil temp guage exists and the oil is always a round 250 degrees you would not know you had a problem until it's too late.
If you run an oil pressure guage and you normally see 50-60psi and all of a sudden you can't get more than 40psi, you know you gotta problem and can stop (or not race, etc...) and save a possibly expensive engien rebuild. If that same situation with only an oil temp guage exists and the oil is always a round 250 degrees you would not know you had a problem until it's too late.
