Suspension Will Lowering Springs Always Require Caster Camber Plates?

GoldenEagle91 · Feb 5, 2014

madspeed said:
holy snow INSIDE the engine bay... thats a huge

Well unfortunately the previous owner did a fine job jerry rigging things and he also opted to have a hood scoop that slams cold air, snow, ice, etc right into the carb. Anyway to help this big ?

89oem · Feb 6, 2014

The rivet position yours are in are the same as mine originally were. I dont know enough to tell you if the top of the shock mount is swollen, missing something or just a different design.... if all else is the same you will have enough shift to have an great alignment.

GoldenEagle91 · Feb 6, 2014

89oem said:
The rivet position yours are in are the same as mine originally were. I dont know enough to tell you if the top of the shock mount is swollen, missing something or just a different design.... if all else is the same you will have enough shift to have an great alignment.

You are saying that if I wanted to change the camber angle that I would have a great alignment correct? If I did decide to kick it over one more rivet hole how would I go about doing it?

MFE92 · Feb 6, 2014

You'd drill out the rivets, move the plates, then install screws and nuts. You'd be left with a half-jacked alignment and a mushy rubber mount that still allows the strut to move around several degrees as its loading changes. Get c/c plates.

89oem · Feb 6, 2014

yes, I do think so...take weight off wheel (to make next steps easy and not stress anything _ alignment machines have those swivel wheel plates...) drill out rivet, loosen nuts -not much- just enough to, slide over to next rivet hole or two, tighten nuts put in rivet, the two bolts are in slots, the single bolt is pivot. a big screw driver in the bolt slot will help move - dont bend your strut... it will also change your toe so have adjust it next, youll need to get proper alignment degree to get toe right, that I dont have - i know folks make a simpletool with right angle shelf bracket and yard stick or similar, can someone give input on this method?

thats why I use alignment shop 50 bucks to get it right vs worn tires and poor handling...

89oem · Feb 6, 2014

I really think MFE92 is right based on what ur pictures show...was trying to help you save $

GoldenEagle91 · Feb 6, 2014

MFE92 said:
You'd drill out the rivets, move the plates, then install screws and nuts. You'd be left with a half-jacked alignment and a mushy rubber mount that still allows the strut to move around several degrees as its loading changes. Get c/c plates.

Will do

Sharad · Feb 7, 2014

GoldenEagle91 said:
You're saying once the springs are installed, yes?

You should get the car aligned after the springs are installed.

GoldenEagle91 · Feb 7, 2014

Most definitely will

Suspension Will Lowering Springs Always Require Caster Camber Plates?

GoldenEagle91

Active Member

89oem

Mustang Master

GoldenEagle91

Active Member

MFE92

89oem

Mustang Master

89oem

Mustang Master

GoldenEagle91

Active Member

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

GoldenEagle91

Active Member

Similar threads

Suspension Will Lowering Springs Always Require Caster Camber Plates?

Active Member

Mustang Master

Active Member

Mustang Master

Mustang Master

Active Member

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency