Will steeper gears put more stress on AOD and a stock 5.0
- Thread starter MrPerfect2
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I wasn't aware you could buy any radiator in 2020 for $90 shipped.
With that said, i'd probably never know, because there is no way i'd squander a chance at a robust cooling system.
It's a nice feeling to cruise around knowing the cooling system on an old car is up to any situation.
I'm not sure about the brackets, back in the day I always ran a pepboys 3 row (that was about $140 way back) and I squeezed it into the stock brackets.
Gs1987GT
Active Member
Wow, $90? If your engine is stock with no planned modifications, it would be real hard for me, personally not to give that a shot for $90.
Where is that price from? I don't recall stock 5.0s back in the day having overheating issues, so I don't see why a stock radiator wouldn't work. If you have the cash for an upgrade, by all means, but for a stock engine I wouldn't be afraid to try it.
Radiators have been produced with plastic tanks for many years now and they can last a long time. Good luck with your decision. Just my .02.
Where is that price from? I don't recall stock 5.0s back in the day having overheating issues, so I don't see why a stock radiator wouldn't work. If you have the cash for an upgrade, by all means, but for a stock engine I wouldn't be afraid to try it.
Radiators have been produced with plastic tanks for many years now and they can last a long time. Good luck with your decision. Just my .02.
That is gonna have plastic side tanks, I think that is not a bad thing for the money spent but I would not do one for a car I plan on keeping.
Bagillion of them in cars today.
Bagillion of them in cars today.
As long as it works and fits good is my concern - since it’s a daily drive with no high performance parts , it should do
Could have sworn this post started with gears.
Gears mean more rpm, more rpm means more heat.
to agree with Noobz347, it is like using a lever with the fulcrum closer to the heavy object end. It is easier to move the object (the car) but you have to move the lever more (in this case spin more) to do it. So not counting high speed interstate or yhe Sandhills Open Road Challenge, it should be easier on your motor and transmission. Add slicks, a grippy clutch and 5k clutch drops, then the T-5 is on death row no matter the rear end gears are.
I have a feeling if I put gears in - I will be pushing the car to its maximum potential often . It will be too fun to resist fast takeoffs and rpms will cause trans to shift more often -
marcelo
Active Member
still just 170 hp on the wheels ... nothing to worry about ....making a big thing about nothing... 
A tranny cooler IMHO is a necessity for good transmission life especially with 4.10's. Have you had a chance to try out 4.10's in OP car? They can be pretty hairy for some OP on the freeway and in the gas station. With an AT I would say 3.73's would be good, with the torque multiplication factored in. I think I remember reading that the lower gears actually rob some HP. Also the size of the rims and tires will affect the final drive ratio too.
As to your gear change. I built a 1958 Morris Minor with a H.O. 5.0 and an AOD. It had a .512 lift Comp roller cam and it had a stock AOD with a shift improver kit and a 2200 rpm convertor. When I first built it I had a 3.00 gear and around town I had to pull it out of overdrive or it would hunt and lug the motor.
I went to a 4.10 gear and it made the car drive much better and I still got good gas mileage. The car was my daily driver for 3 years. I had an external cooler on the transmission , but no adverse issues with the transmission.
I went to a 4.10 gear and it made the car drive much better and I still got good gas mileage. The car was my daily driver for 3 years. I had an external cooler on the transmission , but no adverse issues with the transmission.
Gs1987GT
Active Member
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