When i did this mod on my 90 six years ago, when i torqued to bolt's down i had to lift the control arn with a jack to get it to move because it would not move freely on it's own weight, I was told to cut off some of the bushing from the side for it to move freely because it MUST. Do your's move freely down when you take the spring off? and what do you mean the stock bushings are stiff with 1.5" drop?HISSIN50 said:I run poly on the '88 and delrin on another car. Poly is a nice compromise, though the stock durometer bushings (on my '94 atleast) is fairly stiff (1.5" drop) as it is.
I am not sure what you mean about shaving the bushings. I would not shave the bushings, unless I am totally not understanding what you mean.
Good luck.
The suspensions should be loaded (full weight on the suspension) before the LCA bolts are cranked down. If they are cranked down with the arm drooping, the bushing can load up as you lift the arm to its mounting position. Not great for the suspension or the bushings.juiced_94gt said:When i did this mod on my 90 six years ago, when i torqued to bolt's down i had to lift the control arn with a jack to get it to move because it would not move freely on it's own weight, I was told to cut off some of the bushing from the side for it to move freely because it MUST. Do your's move freely down when you take the spring off? and what do you mean the stock bushings are stiff with 1.5" drop?
Hey thank's alot man you just cleared a whole bunch up for me,HISSIN50 said:The suspensions should be loaded (full weight on the suspension) before the LCA bolts are cranked down. If they are cranked down with the arm drooping, the bushing can load up as you lift the arm to its mounting position. Not great for the suspension or the bushings.
The LCA has limited travel. It does move easily, given the weight and dynamics involved. It just might not move easily for someone trying to push the arm up by themselves.
My arms do move freely when the spring is out. Of course, I loosen the LCA bolts a few turns before dropping the spring (I dont pivot the control arm beyond its normal travel w/o unloading the bolts). And I am talking about the '88 GT vert right here (comparing it to your experience with your '90).
The stock durmoeter rating for the SN LCA bushings is not all that soft when speaking of stock control arm bushings. Toss having a dropped car into the equation, and I would not want to go too harsh with the bushings (on a daily driver). Your suspension travel is already limited from being lowered - I am not really desiring any more harshness since the roads here kinda suck. On a track car, that is TOTALLY different (the delrin, for example, is amazing on a road course. Pretty brutal on normal roads though).
This is just my perspective. WHen I do bushings again, I will be using poly in all probability (the '94 is up next). Suspension is one thing that is so individualized, it is hard to decide what you might like based upon what someone else likes. So take what I say for what it is worth (what is stiff to me might seem wallowy to you).
Good luck with the decision.
you have to press them out, and burn off the excess rubber from the stock ones so the bore is clean then press in new ones, i just installed my front stock bushed control arms and it made the car 1,000 times smoother, those poly a-arm bushings really make it ride harder over little bumps and dips.MysteryMachine said:ok how do you get the bushings out do they have to be pressed out? Or can you just beat tehm out and put the new ones in ans if a press is needed what kinda and where can you get one
yellowstang1994 said:Man everything I do needs a press all the time to do it... in my tool catalog you can get a decent press for like $100-200. I'm seriously considering buying one for all the stuff I need it for. Not a bad thing to have really.
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