- Oct 29, 2009
- 15
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I found this thread doing a google seach and posted this inquirey in the Mustang Classic section of this forum; http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/797059-post-pics-mustang-ii-front-ends.html
But I think that I might get better results in the Mustang II section? So here is a repeat:
Hey guys, sorry to butt into your forum, but your site popped up at the top of the list for the answer to my question. And my wife also owns a '68 6cylinder coupe that my son disassembled and gathered all of the suspension parts to convert it to a V8, but since lost interest if that helps.
So, does anybody know the center of upper ball joint to center of lower ball joint dimension on your Mustang II front suspensions? I am looking for a dropped spindle that might be able to be crafted onto the control arms on my '72 Volvo 1800. I am looking at Wilwood’s dropped spindles and am drawing it up on AutoCAD software.
About all that I know right now is that the spindle is about .775” taller, and that the Wilwood spindle's 11deg. inclination in place of my Volvo’s 8 deg., along with the taller spindle and increased upper control arm angle will be kind of close to working, assuming my ball joint centers are about 9.7” apart. This should give me a nicer camber gain as well as allowing me to get the lower control arms up to a more horizontal direction and raise my roll center more than 1.75” above the ground.
I would be welding in new Pinto style screw-in ball joint sleeves and ball joints from Stock Car Products.
Thanks for any replies.
View attachment 240508
That would be fine, the ball joint distance should be the same, stock spindle or dropped. Just guess where you think the actual ball joint pivot point is.
If this works, I will cut my bolt on cross member in half, and widen it 4" spacing the lower control arm inner pivots from 20.5" to 24.5" which is(I read somewere) the width of a later model(sn95?) Mustang's quick ratio rack & pinion inner tie rods. Then I will also have the right width to bolt on a set of Mustang 9x17 wheels with 275/40-17 tires along with a Wilwood larger brake kit.
Also weld in an Explorer 8.8 rear end with 17X10.5 wheels with 315/35-17 tires. (Edit; unless my new math is wrong, Corvette ZR1 17x9.5 ET56 &17x11 ET 36 will fit perfectly, but will need 5x4.75 Chevy bolt patterns.)
And twin rear mount mitsubishi 13c td04 turbos.
Thanks, wicked93gs, that would great, how about also measuring your spindle height?
This thing has a 3 liter overhead valve, early fuel injected straight six that I stuffed into the 4 banger engine compartment 30 years ago. I could make room for a T3T04E, but I have no room for an intercooler, so since this car has true duel exhaust, I was going to put two 13c's in the trunk with their own oil sump, pump and cooler w/ fan. The two 13c's should be about the right size for 1500cc each, maybe a little big for quick spooling, but from what I've been told, once they get going, 400HP should be possible (I know next to nothing about turbocharging). Plus the price for the 13c's is about right (cheep).
I apologize for the thread jack.
But I think that I might get better results in the Mustang II section? So here is a repeat:
Hey guys, sorry to butt into your forum, but your site popped up at the top of the list for the answer to my question. And my wife also owns a '68 6cylinder coupe that my son disassembled and gathered all of the suspension parts to convert it to a V8, but since lost interest if that helps.
So, does anybody know the center of upper ball joint to center of lower ball joint dimension on your Mustang II front suspensions? I am looking for a dropped spindle that might be able to be crafted onto the control arms on my '72 Volvo 1800. I am looking at Wilwood’s dropped spindles and am drawing it up on AutoCAD software.
About all that I know right now is that the spindle is about .775” taller, and that the Wilwood spindle's 11deg. inclination in place of my Volvo’s 8 deg., along with the taller spindle and increased upper control arm angle will be kind of close to working, assuming my ball joint centers are about 9.7” apart. This should give me a nicer camber gain as well as allowing me to get the lower control arms up to a more horizontal direction and raise my roll center more than 1.75” above the ground.
I would be welding in new Pinto style screw-in ball joint sleeves and ball joints from Stock Car Products.
Thanks for any replies.
View attachment 240508
That would be fine, the ball joint distance should be the same, stock spindle or dropped. Just guess where you think the actual ball joint pivot point is.
If this works, I will cut my bolt on cross member in half, and widen it 4" spacing the lower control arm inner pivots from 20.5" to 24.5" which is(I read somewere) the width of a later model(sn95?) Mustang's quick ratio rack & pinion inner tie rods. Then I will also have the right width to bolt on a set of Mustang 9x17 wheels with 275/40-17 tires along with a Wilwood larger brake kit.
Also weld in an Explorer 8.8 rear end with 17X10.5 wheels with 315/35-17 tires. (Edit; unless my new math is wrong, Corvette ZR1 17x9.5 ET56 &17x11 ET 36 will fit perfectly, but will need 5x4.75 Chevy bolt patterns.)
And twin rear mount mitsubishi 13c td04 turbos.
Thanks, wicked93gs, that would great, how about also measuring your spindle height?
This thing has a 3 liter overhead valve, early fuel injected straight six that I stuffed into the 4 banger engine compartment 30 years ago. I could make room for a T3T04E, but I have no room for an intercooler, so since this car has true duel exhaust, I was going to put two 13c's in the trunk with their own oil sump, pump and cooler w/ fan. The two 13c's should be about the right size for 1500cc each, maybe a little big for quick spooling, but from what I've been told, once they get going, 400HP should be possible (I know next to nothing about turbocharging). Plus the price for the 13c's is about right (cheep).
I apologize for the thread jack.