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Window Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kilgore Trout
  • Start date Start date Oct 25, 2006
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Mach1Run

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Jun 25, 2004
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Oct 28, 2006
#21
  • Oct 28, 2006
  • #21
May also be cheaper if you can get the motor off and resuse it as long as its not the problem. Chances are I would relpace them both with a new piece and not worry about it.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Oct 28, 2006
#22
  • Oct 28, 2006
  • #22
it just occured to me to look up the parts in my crash book. they available spearately, BUT they are both over $130 EACH
 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici
Admin Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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the Shadow Gallery
Oct 28, 2006
#23
  • Oct 28, 2006
  • #23
FWIW, I've had 3 window regulators replaced under warranty on my 2004. That little rubber stopper at the bottom where the glass rests when down has come out about 4 times--the cause of the "clunk" so many people complain about.
 

BlackenedSVT

Active Member
Jan 18, 2004
1,841
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New Jersey
Oct 28, 2006
#24
  • Oct 28, 2006
  • #24
bigcat said:
it just occured to me to look up the parts in my crash book. they available spearately, BUT they are both over $130 EACH
Click to expand...

I think the window regulators for the BMWs I install them in are like $250+ and that doesn't include a motor
 

Jenns01TA

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Mar 31, 2005
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Oct 29, 2006
#25
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #25
Kilgore Trout said:
Update: the window does not go up or down anymore, it just makes horrible clicking and popping noises. This would be the regulator right?
Click to expand...
hmm. i had a similar problem where it got stuck, i ended up having to cut out a portion of the door to get to the bottom roller rail and pop the roller back on the track, if you can, try to get a mirror in there and see if the roller is off the track first



-tomustang
 

Jenns01TA

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Mar 31, 2005
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Oct 29, 2006
#26
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #26
Jenns05Stang said:
hmm. i had a similar problem where it got stuck, i ended up having to cut out a portion of the door to get to the bottom roller rail and pop the roller back on the track, if you can, try to get a mirror in there and see if the roller is off the track first



-tomustang
Click to expand...

Killy - Tom has hacked into my computer.

~J~
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
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Mar 30, 2005
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Oct 29, 2006
#27
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #27


Anyways, thanks for the tips. I am going to pull it apart today, get the regulator at the Ford parts counter tomorrow, and install it tomorrow night. I need to pop rivet the window back on the regulator track to install the new regulator. Can I just use a regular pop rivet gun for this? I know I have to drill out the existing rivets. Is a special tool required to remove the regulator though? No way am I going to be cutting the door panel. There must be a way to avoid that and if it has to be done I am taking it to a shop...

I may order a regulator online though... When the catalog says "left" they mean the driver's side right?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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the people's republic of massachusetts
Oct 29, 2006
#28
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #28
sounds like the regulator to me killy. lucky for you the mustang regulators don't use a counterbalance spring. Those things were deadly I had more than a few buzz by my head when the flew off.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#29
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #29
svttech76 said:
sounds like the regulator to me killy. lucky for you the mustang regulators don't use a counterbalance spring. Those things were deadly I had more than a few buzz by my head when the flew off.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks for that info! I was reading my Haynes manual and there was a big warning about that spring. Glad to hear that I do not have to worry about death after all
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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the people's republic of massachusetts
Oct 29, 2006
#30
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #30
Kilgore Trout said:
Wow, thanks for that info! I was reading my Haynes manual and there was a big warning about that spring. Glad to hear that I do not have to worry about death after all
Click to expand...

I have never had the pleasure of doing a regulator in a mustang so I am not 100 percent sure but the ford service manual mentions nothing about a counterbalance spring in it. the regulators go so rarely on these cars and we see so few mustangs in the dealers that I never had to do one yet. I have done pleanty of regulators with a counterbalance in the older explorers and taurus and they all work the same so I will tell you how I did it in those.

Well If it does have a counterbalance then what you need to do is leave the motor on the regulator when you remove it fromt he door and put one end of the regulator in a vise then while holding the other arm of the regulator take the motor off and slowly move the regulator arm untill the spring looses tension.. install the spring in the new regulator the same way.. good luck and wear safety goggles.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#31
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #31
What about the rivets that hold the bottom of the window onto the regulator track? Do they need an extra long drill bit to reach to and drill out for removal? And when reinstalling will the new regulator come with new rivets? Will a regular pop rivet gun reach in there or do I need a special one?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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the people's republic of massachusetts
Oct 29, 2006
#32
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #32
Kilgore Trout said:
What about the rivets that hold the bottom of the window onto the regulator track? Do they need an extra long drill bit to reach to and drill out for removal? And when reinstalling will the new regulator come with new rivets? Will a regular pop rivet gun reach in there or do I need a special one?
Click to expand...

Before you drill the rivets out pop the pin out the center with a hammer and punch, then I use a drill to drill out the center of the rivets, a normal drill will work all you have to do is move the regulator to where you can access the rivets easier.

As for reinstalling it, I use a big handled rivet gun. since I neve done it on a mustang I am not sure a regular nosed one will work, you may end up needing a long nosed one.
 

DTNODYA

Member
Dec 15, 2005
831
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Oct 29, 2006
#33
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #33
svttech76 said:
Before you drill the rivets out pop the pin out the center with a hammer and punch, then I use a drill to drill out the center of the rivets, a normal drill will work all you have to do is move the regulator to where you can access the rivets easier.

As for reinstalling it, I use a big handled rivet gun. since I neve done it on a mustang I am not sure a regular nosed one will work, you may end up needing a long nosed one.
Click to expand...

Kinda off topic but I have a question about those rivets. I had to take two out in order to get my door handle off my truck the other day and they were are PITA x1000! But I didn't know I was supposed to punch the center first. Anyway, where do I get new ones and what type of rivet gun do I use to install them?

Where does one get a "long nosed" rivet gun??
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Oct 29, 2006
#34
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #34
you should be able to pick up the rivets at any automotive store like napa, advance, autozone, etc. they are called 1/4" window regulator rivets they have a special pin that splits the rivet as it pulls, so it spreads out more than a regular rivet. the door handle ones are the same, but a little shorter and usually black.

you can get the rivet gun from most places, you need the 1/4" "big daddy" rivet gun. ill google it and find a pic.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Oct 29, 2006
#35
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #35
here is a pic of the rivet gun. if you are doing the door handles, you need a helper so you dont scratch the paint. have one person hold the nose, while the other pumps the handle. the regulator does not require a helper.

View attachment 428764

if you get the brand name one, MARSON BIG DADDY RIVET GUN, then its about $160. you can get a cheap knock off for about $15, but they dont last near as long as the marson one does. luckily for you guys, you wont need it very often, so a cheap one should be OK for you.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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Oct 29, 2006
#36
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #36
Awesome guys thanks for the Mustang knowledge

Oh, and for people who find this thread while searching here are some pics of various rivets for Fords including the 1/4" window regulator rivet:
http://autobodysupplies.safeshopper.com/15/cat15.htm?599

Here's a rivet gun on e-Bay that looks ideal:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATD-...019QQitemZ290044445135QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Oct 29, 2006
#37
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #37
too bad the auction will not be valid when someone actually searches for this. they will just get the invalid item page.
 

DTNODYA

Member
Dec 15, 2005
831
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16
Oct 29, 2006
#38
  • Oct 29, 2006
  • #38
bigcat, thanks for the info! I always like when people give specific information.

Good links too Kilgore.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
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Nov 1, 2006
#39
  • Nov 1, 2006
  • #39
Well, I changed out the window regulator last night. It took about two hours and was fairly challenging but went pretty smoothly. The only mistake I made was forgetting to vacuum the crap outta the inside of the door. Now I have to go back in there and vacuum out the metal fragments and pieces of the rivets that I had to drill out in order to remove the window glass

I got the big heavy duty rivet gun capable of 1/4" rivets at Harbor Freight for $17.

The window regulator was $153 at the Ford parts counter (in stock) and had a $30 core charge.

The window glass rivets were $1.44 each and I got these at the Ford parts counter also.

The problem with the old window regulator was that some key spot welds had failed and the part just fell into pieces. Yay Ford
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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Nov 1, 2006
#40
  • Nov 1, 2006
  • #40
Here are some more pics I took of the window regulator change...

View attachment 427796

Here is the rear rivet that holds the window on the regulator. I drilled it out with the next size bigger from 1/4"
View attachment 427798

Here is the front rivet
View attachment 427800

The horizontal rail shown here is not part of the window regulator assembly so it is re-used
View attachment 427802

In order to get the glass out I had to remove the weather stripping on the inside and the outside of the window glass, that was kind of tricky...
View attachment 427804

Here is the stupid piece that fell off the regulator assembly. It is the gear that transfers the motor force to an arm that move the glass. The piece shown was spot welded on and the welds came loose so the piece just fell into the bottom of the door When this happened the spring (yes there was a f'n spring anyways the spring was released and the regulator arms were fricking all over the place once I removed the glass and took the weight off It was pretty dicey and I was afraid that my door would suffer exterior body damage when I struck the sprung tight mounting bolts of the window motor out of the door frame and the whole regulator assembly snapped inside the door
View attachment 427806

Anyways, the trim, window, and door stuff can be pretty tricky but I would do it again if I had to

Here is the new rivet gun I got for $17 at Harbor Freight
View attachment 427808

Here are the window regulator rivets compared to regular rivets
View attachment 427810
 
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