Wiring GT fog lights on LX

yes, the relay power wire is connected directly to the + battery terminal...

well, I disconnected the (+) from each fog light, then tested each one at a time by wiring the (+) to the battery, and YES -got them to turn on.

So, the grounds for each light are working.

And, the fuse is good....going to the relay, but I still cannot get them to turn on with the wiring harness....



So; either the relay in junk, or there's something wrong with the fuse holder.......

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Do yourself a favor. Just go to radio shack and buy a cheap 12V testor. It will come in handy especially if you plan on doing future electrical projects on your car like this.

You pretty much have it almost done. Just test to see if you have power on the wire going into the relay from the battery and if you have power coming out of it when it clicks. That should tell you if the relay is junk or if the fuse is junk.

btw...where did you get that relay?
 
from what little i read, Mike is spot on. while at the parts store or electronics store, i would pick up a spare SPDT relay. as he is suspecting, and i, your relay might not be carrying the load.

you are not using terminal 87A (if you have one), right?

good luck.
 
Yeah, I'm into it this far; so I'll pick up a V meter.

I'm also ordering the stock switch also, which is what I want to use. When that arrives I'll get back into it..

I picked up the relay as part of a fog-light wiring package, it included the relay (30 amp) and fuse, switch and wiring....I though it might be easier -plus it came with a switch I could use in the mean time- and it was designed for fog lights...but I bet the dam relay it came with sucks...I really should have gotten the radio shack relay. I'll find out soon enough.

I'll let you know how it goes, I think I'm already into this over 8 hours counting the stupid driving time trying to find a stock switch, and driving time to find the brackets from the junk yard...and looking for plugs that turned out not to be there..wow; Luck is not on my side thus far.
 
you are almost there - you will get it. we have all been there and done stuff just like you are going through.

good luck.
 
Nicoleb3x3 said:
I'll let you know how it goes, I think I'm already into this over 8 hours counting the stupid driving time trying to find a stock switch, and driving time to find the brackets from the junk yard...and looking for plugs that turned out not to be there..wow; Luck is not on my side thus far.


That's ok. I once spent about 4 weekends trying to figure out why my car was stumbling and running poorly. I spent literally about 20-25 hours combined checking everything on the car.

Stupid me saves the firing order for last. Come to find out, the #2 and #3 wires were reversed :bang: :bang: :bang:
 
Mike, what about all the time you spent trying to clean the interior of your old Mark 8? i bet that took awhile :D
 
wow, that sucks.

Thanks, you make me feel allot better for not having this project 100% completed by now.

Reminds me when my Dad and I were doing a 5 min. job replacing the spark plug wires on my old Neon; Dam thing woudn't start after we switched the wires....after about 30 mins we threw the old wires back on....and sure enough fired right up---go figure; the brand new wires were junk! ......that reminds me; we never returned the dam things, those ****ty wires still sitting in my garage- and the Neon is long gone...ha!
 
ok....still no luck

I replaced the relay with the Radio Shack Relay, and rewired all my own stuff to replace the wiring kit I bought -I confirmed the power wire from the battery was not working; the fuse was fine; so I replaced the wire and fuse holder and fuse- and YES; now I have power going to the relay..but still NOTHING!

1.) I installed the new GT switch; yes, it's sending power to the relay.
2.) Since I replaced the fuse holder and fuse and wire; YES, it's sending the major power to the relay.
3.) both grounds are good ( I even rewired those with better wiring -just to be sure)

So; now...I think the radio shack relay is junk! Dammit! This one is not "clicking" when I flip the switch- and I suspect it anyway because Radio Shack only had one in stock; and it was already open....so....it must have been returned to Radio Shack for a reason.

It's the only thing I can think of; I confirmed my first problem was the main power wire with the fuse....stupid me I replaced the relay before I got the volt tester...I bet if I left the old relay alone it would have been fine. -but I'm not too disappointed-the wires it was using were very thin and I didn't feel confortable with them.

So; I'm returning this relay and going to another Radio Shack.....
 
Nicoleb3x3 said:
1.) I installed the new GT switch; yes, it's sending power to the relay.
2.) Since I replaced the fuse holder and fuse and wire; YES, it's sending the major power to the relay.
3.) both grounds are good ( I even rewired those with better wiring -just to be sure)

.....
is this paragraph just about the relay wiring, or are you talking about grounds for the fog light bulbs?

the SPDT relay should only have one ground (usually terminal 85, but can be 86......and some relays have funky nomenclature and it is neither). in essense, you should have:

-fused constant battery power in on the common terminal.
-the relay output (relay connects the battery power to this, which feeds the lights). this is the normally-open terminal.

-switched 12 volts on one coil (from the headlight or fog light switch.
-constant ground on the other coil. (assuming 12 volts is the output of the headlight or foglight switch).

if the relay has terminal 87A, dont use it.

im sure you know this, but when going in circles with electrical stuff, sometimes (at least i) get sidetracked or miss something.

as Mike said, keep at it. when you are done, it will be one of the more satisfying foglight retrofits in history. :)
 
:D :D :D :D :D :D :hail2:
There is a God!

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1.) Orginal set up had something wrong with the fuse holder. :bang:
2.) Second try had a bad Radio Shack Relay (last one in stock and was opened previously) :bang: :bang:

I picked up a relay from another Radio Shack -WAS FINALLY SUCCESSFUL!

FINAL SET UP:
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One day when I can forget all the time spent already; I'll pick up some tap-in connectors and tap into the parking light power so I don't need my headlights on at the same time. -for now I need a break.

Thanks Everyone!
 

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Nicoleb3x3 said:
gotta tap into those parking lights...

suspension this spring-gotta save $$$

thanks so much! without your support I would have quit!
well, how for the next project, how about doing something easier - maybe a blower or TT install. :lol:

nice job - glad you got it finally. now enjoy. :nice:
 
My suspension plans are still under development; however, here's some of what I have so far:

*T-bird rear end
*breaks- (keeping 4 lug)
*springs (brand not chosen yet..) w/ caster camber plates
*shocks & struts (most likely KYB or Tokico)
*swaybar and bushings
*SFC- subframe connectors (full length and welded)
*Upper and lower control arms

For most of the parts I'm planning on a Maximum Motorsport customized package.

I could use some advice on upgrading the front breaks (from a 2.3 set up) -If anyone has info for me please post to my cardomain site; or send me an email.

Most of these upgrades are planned for the Spring through summer.

Yeah I know; allot to take on for a chick...granted I cannot install most of it myself- but I'll have help, the SFC I'll pay someone to install and weld on.

If your interested just keep visting my cardomain site; I keep it fairly up to date.

later!
nicole
 
Nicoleb3x3 said:
I could use some advice on upgrading the front breaks (from a 2.3 set up) -If anyone has info for me please post to my cardomain site; or send me an email.

Well, since you want to stay 4-lug, there's not a whole lot you can do.

2.3's have 10" front brakes while 5.0's get 11" brakes. Unless you want to spend $$$ on a baer 4-lug 13" front setup, your best choice is to convert to a 5.0 setup.

To do that you would need the spindles, rotors, bearings 60mm calipers, pads and brake lines.

If you want to upgrade, you can run the SVO/Mark7 73mm calipers on the 5.0 spindles also.

Since you are putting t-bird rear disks, you'll need to change your MC out. I'd probably go with a 94-95 GT/V6 MC and booster. You'd also need the prop valve and 3-2 conversion kit.

You have plenty of time to research this. A lot of people go this route so search around.