WOOT, big find in the J-yard today

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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129

Olathe KS

Apr 7, 2005

#1

• Apr 7, 2005

• #1

I stumbled upon a 91 2.3 mustang in the junk yard today. I knew it had just be set there, and was hoping for another roller cam to make a small profit on. I was thrilled when I found it was a manual and the T5 was still tucked up underneath . This was a shock to me because I have never seen a T5 in this yard.
I'll have to go back tommorrow to pull the pedals, flywheel and pressure plate, but I am thrilled with the find.
Anyone else need anything? The taillights were still there when I left, but there is a slight crack in the drivers side.

 

mr_woodster

Active Member

Jul 28, 2003

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Riverside, CA

Apr 7, 2005

#2

• Apr 7, 2005

• #2

viva a4ld!!!!!

 

SVO1

Lord of The somethin' somethin' somethin', hell, I

Oct 25, 1999

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Lord of uh, hmm what was it again?

Apr 7, 2005

#3

• Apr 7, 2005

• #3

what color interior? If red I need the drivers side sill plate!

 

Dan P.

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Apr 26, 2002

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N.C.

Apr 7, 2005

#4

• Apr 7, 2005

• #4

Good find there Brian, I know its going to a good time without the good ol A4LD to slow ya down. Now if I could only get rid of mine ..........

 

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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Olathe KS

Apr 7, 2005

#5

• Apr 7, 2005

• #5

SVO1 said:

what color interior? If red I need the drivers side sill plate!

Click to expand...

Sorry, its black. A lot of the plastic seems to be fine, but I wouldn't touch the seats or carpet. Smokers car.

 

Dr_EluSivE

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Apr 24, 2002

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Central Illinois

Apr 8, 2005

#6

• Apr 8, 2005

• #6

Nice find.. the 5 speed will REALLY help.. make sure you go early.. Dont want it to slip away.

Dr.

 

2.3Lxhatch311

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Where the hell am I?

Apr 8, 2005

#7

• Apr 8, 2005

• #7

Have fun dropping in your T-5. If you've never transferred before, be prepared. Those pedals are a bitch to get out. The speedo cable on an automatic is in the hole where the clutch cable goes, you'll have to fix that. Also, you'll need to use the mount from your a4ld and the same cross member. And it still might not bolt up right (mine didn't) If your easy on the tray parts that go where the shifter is, you can use the auto ones with your manual, I like the way it looks with trim around it. I have a leather bag around my knob that goes really well with it. You'll have to either hard wire the Park position sensor so it thinks it's always in park or do like I do and use it as a dummy switch that you can tuck under the cover plate for the shifter. My reverse lights don't work, and I don't know at the moment how to make em. and I'd adjust the racket on the clutch pedal before you install it, it's a bitch with it in the car. Other than that, I suggest taking your time, and not trying to be in a hurry. The swap is very dooable, but it takes time and concentration. Also, I had to use the driveshaft from the manual car, my auto one wouldn't fit. Dunno if that's the same for every car. These are the biggest things that came up during my swap. Other than that, have fun!

 

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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129

Olathe KS

Apr 8, 2005

#8

• Apr 8, 2005

• #8

I got the pedals, pressure plate, flywheel and clutch today. The pedals wern't fun, but I still had enough time to grab 2 ranger rollers to sell. That alone will nearly pay for the T5 parts I bought this weekend.

 

Asha'man

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Feb 5, 2002

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Denver

Apr 9, 2005

#9

• Apr 9, 2005

• #9

If the interior is black, it might be worth your while to grab some of the larger pieces to sell. Door panels would be at the top of the list, with the dashpad, console, and rear hatch pieces (the big ones) next. Could make enough off those to offset the rest of the T5 swap.

Brian

 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member

Apr 24, 2002

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Central Illinois

Apr 9, 2005

#10

• Apr 9, 2005

• #10

bhuff30 said:

I got the pedals, pressure plate, flywheel and clutch today. The pedals wern't fun, but I still had enough time to grab 2 ranger rollers to sell. That alone will nearly pay for the T5 parts I bought this weekend.

Click to expand...

Ok, I must be an idiot, cause i cant figure out how to get the roller cam out of my mustang without screwing something up.. but if you did 2 in a short time there must be an easy way i am missing. How do you get your cams out? What tools do you use?

Dr.

 

mr_woodster

Active Member

Jul 28, 2003

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Riverside, CA

Apr 9, 2005

#11

• Apr 9, 2005

• #11

take of the valve cover.
removing timing belt.
turn cam so the lobe is up for thefollower your Pop'n out.
remove the 2 philips headed screws in the back of the head (they hold the cam retaining plate on).
slide cam retaining plate out.
slide cam out towards the front of the car carfully so as not to damage the lobes on the towers.

pretty simple, the only thing that can hold you up ifyou've never done it before is the philips screws in the retaining plate.

You need a Short #3 sized (not huge, but nice sized) philips screw driver..or a rachet with a #3 bit. The closeness of the firewall prevents to much access.

 

2.3Lxhatch311

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Where the hell am I?

Apr 9, 2005

#12

• Apr 9, 2005

• #12

I saw a head at the JY that had bolts just like a main crank has. I thought that was like a 1000 times better than sliding in, since it seemed less likely you'd cut a bearing or lobe. I wonder if it had 2 piece bearings too. Dunno what car it was off, I was there to bitch about my title not being in at the time.

 

realtripp

New Member

Mar 1, 2003

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Ft. Madison, IA

Apr 9, 2005

#13

• Apr 9, 2005

• #13

SVO1 said:

what color interior? If red I need the drivers side sill plate!

Click to expand...

I just saw this post and think that I ought to tell you that I happen to have one in my garage that I was going to throw away.

It is from a 91 with the red interior. Casting or part # is as follows: VFOZB-6113208-ABW XD

It is a little scuffed up and I don't remember if it was driver's side or passengers side, but all the screw holes are symmetrical so it should work for either side.

You can have it for the low-low price of free because I had just not gotten around to throwing it away yet. Just pay for shipping on it, which should not be much because I remember you live in Cedar Rapids (about 2 hrs north of me).

PM me with a shipping address and such.

Sorry if this post is too long, just trying to help out a fellow Stanger.

 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member

Apr 24, 2002

2,155

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56

Central Illinois

Apr 9, 2005

#14

• Apr 9, 2005

• #14

mr_woodster said:

take of the valve cover.
removing timing belt.
turn cam so the lobe is up for thefollower your Pop'n out.
remove the 2 philips headed screws in the back of the head (they hold the cam retaining plate on).
slide cam retaining plate out.
slide cam out towards the front of the car carfully so as not to damage the lobes on the towers.

pretty simple, the only thing that can hold you up ifyou've never done it before is the philips screws in the retaining plate.

You need a Short #3 sized (not huge, but nice sized) philips screw driver..or a rachet with a #3 bit. The closeness of the firewall prevents to much access.

Click to expand...

Ok, i was taking the wrong approach but i got both cams out (mustang and TC) and getting ready to put the roller in, Do i need to teflon tape the cam sprocket bolt threads?

Sorry Brian.. i didnt mean to derail your thread. Im done now..

Dr.

 

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

6,037

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129

Olathe KS

Apr 9, 2005

#15

• Apr 9, 2005

• #15

Dr_EluSivE said:

Ok, i was taking the wrong approach but i got both cams out (mustang and TC) and getting ready to put the roller in, Do i need to teflon tape the cam sprocket bolt threads?

Sorry Brian.. i didnt mean to derail your thread. Im done now..

Dr.

Click to expand...

Put a little silicon seal on the cam bolt. Otherwise, it will dribble oil and make a mess of everything as you fling oil off the sproket in directions you never thought possible (ask me how I know ).
It will be a little harder to put the roller followers in. I like to line them up so they can be pushed foward and into place. Use something softer, like the handle end of a hammer to knock them into place.