Worth the money?

Hey guys.

So I'm looking to upgrade my gears in the 8"

I came across this listing on ebay and was wondering if it is worth the money?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230022705417

If I figure $150 for gears, $130 for an installation kit, and $200 for shop labor, that puts me around the $500 mark for gears. Now, I can get this chunk for $750, and put it in myself, if would have stronger components, AND a limited slip. Seems like it's a pretty good deal, given all of the goodies. Would it be possible for me to put something like this in, in a day's work?

Also, I've heard that the stock 8" will only live up to about 350 hp. How true is that, and if I swapped in the above mentions chunk, what do you think that would do for me as far as durability?

Thanks all.
66
 
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For $750 you might as well just get a whole 9".

If you don't get a 9" and just replace the 8" center, it shouldn't take more than a few hours. That's if you've never done it before. Jack the car up, remove wheels, remove drums, drain housing, unbolt axles, unbolt driveshaft, and unbolt center section, taking care not to drop it on yourself. Installation is reverse of removal, except you add a little bottle of friction modifyer to the oil.
 
65ShelbyClone said:
For $750 you might as well just get a whole 9".

If you don't get a 9" and just replace the 8" center, it shouldn't take more than a few hours. That's if you've never done it before. Jack the car up, remove wheels, remove drums, drain housing, unbolt axles, unbolt driveshaft, and unbolt center section, taking care not to drop it on yourself. Installation is reverse of removal, except you add a little bottle of friction modifyer to the oil.

Could I find a 9" that would fit, with decent gears and limited slip for $750?
 
The 8” is stringer than some give it credit for. How much horsepower it will live behind is a function of many things tires, transmission, and driver. Therefore, there are no absolutes. What are your plans for the car? FYI 67 and later carrier housings are stronger than the earlier units are.
 
Jester67 said:
The 8” is stringer than some give it credit for. How much horsepower it will live behind is a function of many things tires, transmission, and driver. Therefore, there are no absolutes. What are your plans for the car? FYI 67 and later carrier housings are stronger than the earlier units are.

Welll, my engine is apparently in the 300-350 range at the fly wheel, and i kinda wanna hit a small (100) or so shot at the track. I probly won't be sinking any money into rims and tires, so I have ****t 215/70r14 tires, and I can rip on the little C4 decently. even though I don't have a shift kit in it. I might put a 2200 or so rpm stall convertor in it.

The car is actually my daily driver. I'm a highschool student in my junior year, and don't plan on taking it to college, so I figure I've only got a couple good years before I leave it with my parents. I'll steal it back after college. Hell, I figure as long as I don't catch traction (which I doubt I would with nitrous) then I could run as big a hit as the engine will take, but i don't want to risk anything.
 
66StangFastback said:
Hey guys.

So I'm looking to upgrade my gears in the 8"

I came across this listing on ebay and was wondering if it is worth the money?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230022705417

If I figure $150 for gears, $130 for an installation kit, and $200 for shop labor, that puts me around the $500 mark for gears. Now, I can get this chunk for $750, and put it in myself, if would have stronger components, AND a limited slip. Seems like it's a pretty good deal, given all of the goodies. Would it be possible for me to put something like this in, in a day's work?

Also, I've heard that the stock 8" will only live up to about 350 hp. How true is that, and if I swapped in the above mentions chunk, what do you think that would do for me as far as durability?

Thanks all.
66

Well, i can actually give you a personal reference for this unit. I bought the same one from TJ's ebay auction last month. I went w/ the 3.80 gears, i called him on the phone and he answered all my questions, after speaking w/ him i felt confident it was a good unit. I paid $764 total shipping included to my door, i bid on it or he will sell you one straight up for i think $750 plus
shipping. Here is a link to the actual unit i recieved from him, bottom of page
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/835961/5
It was a simiply plug and play install. The hardest part on mine was that i have rear disc brakes and it took me longer to reinstall all the brackets and e-brake stuff than it did to put in the 3rd. member. I have just over 100 miles on the unit and all i can say is that i'm impressed. It has done just what he said it would. I had him set it up tight as possible as i'm starting to race the car, I estimate i have in the 200-250 rwhp range w/ my 65. I already laid some posi's with it to make sure it was locking up and boy did it...look at the first page on link for a pic..that's my .02....i would highly recommend it. He builds them stronger than from the factory and says they will handle up to the 450hp range...:nice:
 
ga289stocker said:
Well, i can actually give you a personal reference for this unit. I bought the same one from TJ's ebay auction last month. I went w/ the 3.80 gears, i called him on the phone and he answered all my questions, after speaking w/ him i felt confident it was a good unit. I paid $764 total shipping included to my door, i bid on it or he will sell you one straight up for i think $750 plus
shipping. Here is a link to the actual unit i recieved from him, bottom of page
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/835961/5
It was a simiply plug and play install. The hardest part on mine was that i have rear disc brakes and it took me longer to reinstall all the brackets and e-brake stuff than it did to put in the 3rd. member. I have just over 100 miles on the unit and all i can say is that i'm impressed. It has done just what he said it would. I had him set it up tight as possible as i'm starting to race the car, I estimate i have in the 200-250 rwhp range w/ my 65. I already laid some posi's with it to make sure it was locking up and boy did it...look at the first page on link for a pic..that's my .02....i would highly recommend it. He builds them stronger than from the factory and says they will handle up to the 450hp range...:nice:

AWESOME! How do you like those 3.80s? I was thinking that might be just a bit too much for my DD, but I really haven't had anyone with personal experience suggest any gears. Just based off of the RPM calculators on line and such I figured 3.55s would be good for me.
 
66StangFastback said:
AWESOME! How do you like those 3.80s? I was thinking that might be just a bit too much for my DD, but I really haven't had anyone with personal experience suggest any gears. Just based off of the RPM calculators on line and such I figured 3.55s would be good for me.

Honestly i could not tell much off a difference from the 3.55's I had. Crusing at 60 mph i went from about 2800 rpm to 3050 rpm. I don't drive the car daily so i really wasn't worried about the extra rpm's. I used to drive this car daily in high school w/ the 3.55's and it was fine as long as you don't have any more than say 20 miles one way. I really like the 3.80's now and can see a improvement I'm sure in my 60' foot times when i go back to the track now that i won't have the one wheel peel anymore..For me it was money well spent.
yes you COULD spend more time trying to collect the parts for a 9" and all but it just seemed like to much hassle. Buy the 8" unit from him, know that's receieved good feedback and it will hold up to equal punishment of a 9 cause he builds it better than when new and it's lighter weight than the 9. With that said unless you plan to make this a 10 sec car i really think it will work for you. :D
 
Max Power said:
Why do you think you have to pay $750 for this? Looks like you could probably get it for less.

Well,

limited slip ~ 350
Gears~ 150
Gear install kit~ 130
Gear install~ 200

Thats already up to $230, and thats factory replacement parts. The guy uses high-end rear end parts to make them stronger than factory, so the way i see it, it's a good deal. Not to mention it's a webbed casing, which in itself is stronger than the original.
 
Max Power said:
Why do you think you have to pay $750 for this? Looks like you could probably get it for less.

Gears aren't really that cheap.

I spent a boatload on gears...

$276.14 - (3.73 FRPP Gears, Rebuild Kit, Trac Loc Rebuild kit, speedometer gear) Purchased at CJponyparts.com (20% off regular price)

$49.75 (Axle Bearings/Axle Seals from NAPA)

$547.61 Labor (Gear install, Trac Loc Rebuild/Amsoil 75W-90 Gear Oil, Traction Additive)

All in all that is $873.50...
 
Henceforward said:
Gears aren't really that cheap.

I spent a boatload on gears...

$276.14 - (3.73 FRPP Gears, Rebuild Kit, Trac Loc Rebuild kit, speedometer gear) Purchased at CJponyparts.com (20% off regular price)

$49.75 (Axle Bearings/Axle Seals from NAPA)

$547.61 Labor (Gear install, Trac Loc Rebuild/Amsoil 75W-90 Gear Oil, Traction Additive)

All in all that is $873.50...

Damn. That's my point exactly. I could spend way more than 750, and still not have what that thing comes with.

Hence spent 873, and he already had Trac loc, and had to have it rebuilt. Would have been more if he had to buy a new unit.
 
I got a chunk from a member of another board “fast500xl1”
He might be a member here also, I don’t know. :shrug:
it is a 3.55 with traction lock. It has been about 1 year and 10,000 mi or something like that. $650.00 to my door with no core return.
Works GREAT!:D
Took longer to have the bearings pressed on the axle then to do the chunk.:nice:
 
66StangFastback said:
Well,

limited slip ~ 350
Gears~ 150
Gear install kit~ 130
Gear install~ 200

Thats already up to $230, and thats factory replacement parts. The guy uses high-end rear end parts to make them stronger than factory, so the way i see it, it's a good deal. Not to mention it's a webbed casing, which in itself is stronger than the original.

My POINT was that he has $750 Buy it Now, but the auction starts at $600 with no reserve.
 
Max Power said:
My POINT was that he has $750 Buy it Now, but the auction starts at $600 with no reserve.

That's the way I bought mine, I got the unit for $709 auction style and paid
$55 shipping. From the auctions i had watched mine was cheaper than most as the acution ended at like 4am est. So I set my alarm really earlier that
day. I never saw one go for under $700 in the auctions at least from that person.