WTF? 3g problems. Need help fast

[rdharper02]

Got my upgraded 3g alt for my 93 gt yesterday. Its been one of those days and I'm having a heck of a time with the write ups. Heres what I have right now.
From the factory the white wire on the "D" plug is connected to the smaller plug. Is this right? I read the articles and it seems that it should connect to the wht/blck wire from the old harness. The D (3g plug also has a grn/orng wire and a ylw/wht wire. Where the heck do these go if I'm only using the wht/blk off of the old harness? (going to cap off the blk/orng's)



Right now I have my hood up and every previously posted article minimized. Helllppppppp!

 

[rdharper02]

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[rdharper02]

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[rdharper02]

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[rdharper02]

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[fox racer]

ok the plug witht the 2 black/oragne wire, cut off. take the white wire and put on the grey connector (if you bought a kit) . then plug the other harness onto the alternator and run the white wire to the single connector right next to it. then run a 4 gauge cable from the little gold stud on the back of the alt to the positive battery side of the starter solenoid.

 

[jrichker]

I am very careful to maintain backwards compatibility, so I did things a little different. The white/black stator wire gets the insulation stripped back about 1 1/2" in the middle of the wire & cut in the middle of the stripped area. Then a short length of white wire with a 1/4" slip on female spade connector gets spliced on to the white/black wire. Slide on enough 1/4" heat shrink tubing on the white wire to cover the solder splice you are going to make. Next all 3 wires get soldered together & the heat shrink tubing gets shrunk. When you finish, the white/black wire looks like a "Y" with 1 white arm and 1 white/black arm. I left the black/orange wires connected to the original plug and did not do anything to them. When you are done, the original plug still has all the wires connected to it and they are still functional. The extra white pigtail wire that you spliced, soldered in & covered with heat shrink tubing is just long enough to plug into the 3G without much left over.

I ran the 4 gauge wire under the front of the engine next to the 4 gauge wire for the starter power feed.
It came up the same path as the fuel injector supply lines, and gets bolted to the power output lug of the 3G alternator. The 125 amp fuse is mounted on a plastic panel bolted to the stock ignition coil mounts. One of side of the fuse has a 4 gauge wire connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid & the other to the 4 gauge power feed wire for the alternator.

I had some 1" silicone aircraft heat shield tubing that I fed the 4 gauge alternator power feed wire through and tie wrapped & clamped it in place with some aircraft cushion clamps. That provided the wire extra protection from road debris and rocks. Some heater hose could be used to do the same thing.

Apart from the grinding I did on the mount bracket, there wasn't much to it. Rather than just grind a notch, I ground the whole web back to the thick part of the bracket. It looks much more factory that way.

 

[rdharper02]

I appreciate it guys. Thanks for replying. Hopefully I have all the info I need. Problem is that my tensioner doesnt want to release pressure. Is this common on foxes.
Signed
Another Fox Newbie

 

[rdharper02]

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[HISSIN50]

Are you using a breaker bar on the tensioner? I've used a 3/8" ratchet, but it takes some muscle compared to the breaker.

Good luck.

 

[rdharper02]

Got it. I used a deadblow a couple of times and it will allow me to draw it back again. Seems to be fine. Must have been in a bind..?

 

[gruvee87vertgt]

yeah, the 3 g u[grade can be difficult...especially cause there's like 10 different directions on how to do it.

 

[rdharper02]

Having problems. Getting low output. Could be my engine ground, the alt, the 100amp (getting a 150) or the factory 95 pulley.

 

[dec322]

Did you get it fixed? How is the charge now? I'm about to partake in this adventure and I'm searching and reading everything I can find.