WTF my 220k engine runs like crap with 184 PSI

T

terramir

New Member

Nov 5, 2004

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Dec 16, 2004

#1

• Dec 16, 2004

• #1

I'm perplexed I figured the root of all my problems was that the engine was worn with 220k miles on it I figured that was my problem well nope no dice every cylinder has 184 psi which is pretty good I would say for a 16 yrs, 220k mile engine. I figured it was time for a rebuild or a new head gasket (but nope that doesn't seem to be the problem)
I'm right now getting 12 in the city and btw 23-28 on the fwy. well that 12 is just still confusing me.
#1 it starts like crap in the morning well got to crank it a zillion times before it will start, if I leave it for more that a half an hour it stalls most of the time peeling myself out of parking spots.
#2 the low-end torque is non existant need to floor the gas most of the times to get desent acceleration.
#3 I rebuilt my carb (kit autozone), replaced airfilter, sparkplugs, timing belt (yes default 10 btdc with the computer plug removed 20- 30 after it's replaced). The rest I did was breaks shocks struts stuff

I am trying to figure out what the heck I can do about this, I mean 184 psi is like very good compression, I mean what do you guys think? but in the city my gas milage is like from hell and well this thing it's not unreliable but this is killing my battery with all the cranking and quite frankly I could live without the parking stalls. I am trying to keep this thing in decent shape till I drop the aod and the 5.0HO in
so someone tell me if I'm right that 184PSI is great and also let me know what else I can check out to figure out why this thing is running (well and starting like a piece of crap)
help !!!!!
terramir

 

Cougar

Founding Member

Sep 29, 2001

913

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Manhattan Kansas, KSU

Dec 16, 2004

#2

• Dec 16, 2004

• #2

Well no wonder, 184PSI is blowing out the spark!

 

Brantley

Founding Member

Feb 29, 2000

1,329

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Memphis, TN

Dec 16, 2004

#3

• Dec 16, 2004

• #3

How old are your plugs and wires? Are the pluggs gapped correctly? How old is the PCV valve? Oil filter cap tight? Dipstick make a good seal? Any vacuum leaks? You say it's carb'd? I don't know a thing about carbs (thankfully).

And why do you want a 5.slow? Edumacate yourself on the 2.3 turbo engine, install one, and then go beat up on some 5.slows.

 

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FknBadFkr

New Member

Mar 15, 2003

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Charleston,SC

Dec 16, 2004

#4

• Dec 16, 2004

• #4

what about cam timing?..if the PSI is that high it may be a cam timing issue....................Hal

 

Ray III

New Member

Feb 10, 2004

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fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY

Dec 17, 2004

#5

• Dec 17, 2004

• #5

Well the 5.0 will fix the low end torque problem lol.

I agree, check your cam timing. Pull plug in upper timing cover (if it has one) and the mark on the cam sprocket should align with the pointer when the crank pulley reads 0. (If the cam pointer has 3 prongs, point it at the middle)

 

Tom in Tacoma

New Member

Nov 16, 2004

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Dupont, WA

Dec 17, 2004

#6

• Dec 17, 2004

• #6

I would question the 184psi reading on each cylinder as well. For one thing, what are the odds that each cylinder would have the exact same reading on a motor with that many miles on it.

From what you're describing I would suspect the carb as the source of your problems. I'm about to yank mine out for a rebuild as well. While mine starts up pretty quickly in cold weather, it's a dog off the line, the mileage is horrible around town and it will not idle without me feathering it til the engine's warm.

Doncha just love carbs?....

 

J

JB66

New Member

Aug 21, 2004

565

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New York

Dec 17, 2004

#7

• Dec 17, 2004

• #7

Those carbs. work great when everything's working properly. Did you replace the electric assist on the choke? Did you make sure the little 2 hole gasket was replaced for the choke vacuum pull-off tube? Does the choke mechanism work according to specs.? Did you increase the accelerator pump stroke for better response off idle? Could be lots of things, but the carb. theory looks pretty promising. If you want it redone professionally, you could always send it to Pony Carburetors in NY.

 

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terramir

New Member

Nov 5, 2004

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Dec 18, 2004

#8

• Dec 18, 2004

• #8

Did replace the pcv valve too yeah replaced the choke with one from the junkyard I dunno, if that is the issue but if it is well yikes more money in the 2.3 piece of crap I think I'm gonna have to wait for the junkyard sale and well replace my computer intake manafold and my carb with a fuel injection system that will solve all my problems, but that means alot of work. thanks for your suggestions
terramir

 

D

Darkhorse845

Banned

Nov 17, 2004

101

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Las Vegas,Nevada

Dec 19, 2004

#9

• Dec 19, 2004

• #9

Cougar said:

Well no wonder, 184PSI is blowing out the spark!

Click to expand...

Same thing I was thinking.

 

Ray III

New Member

Feb 10, 2004

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fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY

Dec 19, 2004

#10

• Dec 19, 2004

• #10

terramir said:

Did replace the pcv valve too yeah replaced the choke with one from the junkyard I dunno, if that is the issue but if it is well yikes more money in the 2.3 piece of crap I think I'm gonna have to wait for the junkyard sale and well replace my computer intake manafold and my carb with a fuel injection system that will solve all my problems, but that means alot of work. thanks for your suggestions
terramir

Click to expand...

If you put EFI on your engine, you're gonna have more problems.

 

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terramir

New Member

Nov 5, 2004

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Dec 21, 2004

#11

• Dec 21, 2004

• #11

Thanks for the reply guys turns out your right tom the reading were actually 184 on #1 180 on #2 182 on #3 and 182 on #4 according to what he wrote down but still pretty close together you guys might be on to some thing else though, I have had problems with the timing everysice I replace the timing belt turns out that it's more like towards the middle between the middle sproket and the left one well right if your looking head on. So my question is threefold
#1 can a half sproket difference make that much of a difference, and #2 what should the correct PSI reading be because obviously all of you say that is too high?because the chiltons just gives rations and #3 what about that third wheel down below the timing belt is on because in the chiltons manual that thing seems like it's not really mentioned (it's like a step-child you don't speak of )
Thanks guys for all your help so far.
(also is that high compression responsible for my dieseling when I turn the motor off?)
Thanks in advance for all your help
terramir
PS: I want a 5.slow because quite frankly 2.3 turbos can't lug around jack (well there great to beat up 5.0's but the towing capacity is like 0. while I'm a city slicker right now hey I'll never know where life will take me and well a 2.3L turbo is not something you find often at pick and pull (but I got to tell you one went in the press before I could jack the spolier off of it (didn't have the 30 bucks handy ;( poor SVO :damnit: I wanted that svo spoiler so badly and another of the less than 10k svo's is a verifed dead meat.

 

Ray III

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Feb 10, 2004

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fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY

Dec 22, 2004

#12

• Dec 22, 2004

• #12

If the timing of off half a sprocket the car will not run... you mean half a sprocket TOOTH? (sprocket = wheel the belt goes on) Half a tooth off aint that bad.

The third sprocket is the auxiliary shaft, it drives the fuel pump on carb motors and on all motors drives the fuel pump and distributor. Aim it up or down at whatever reference mark you can find, it doesn't really matter as the distributor timing can be corrected.

 

J

JB66

New Member

Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Dec 23, 2004

#13

• Dec 23, 2004

• #13

Have you checked to make sure the camshaft is indexed correctly. I've seen them off by two teeth and still run. If it's advanced too much, that may be the root of your problem.

 

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terramir

New Member

Nov 5, 2004

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Dec 26, 2004

#14

• Dec 26, 2004

• #14

well how to I check if it is indexed correctly ?
Also to answer the other guys question TDC is lined up exactly with the middle marking up where the cam timing is we replaced the spacer between the carb and the intake manifold it's running a little better but I think the source of my problems is the choke and the carb now I'm not sure though
still need to know about the cam indexing though
let me know
terramir

 

J

JB66

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Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Dec 27, 2004

#15

• Dec 27, 2004

• #15

If you checked to make sure everything is lined up according to the shop manual, you've indexed it to the factory manual specs.

 

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terramir

New Member

Nov 5, 2004

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Dec 27, 2004

#16

• Dec 27, 2004

• #16

so that means the marking on that wheel (pulley what ever you call it cannot be off it's just the timeing mark has to align with the teeth below it? or can that wheel actually be off by itself Meaning having an incorrect marking?
let me know
terramir

 

J

JB66

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Aug 21, 2004

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New York

Dec 29, 2004

#17

• Dec 29, 2004

• #17

I believe it should line up with the keyway being vertical. Isn't that what the shop manual shows? It calls for the keyway to be + or - 2 degrees from vertical (straight up) and the camshaft sprocket dimple to be lined up with the pointer. Recheck after enabling the tensioner.