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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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WTF my mustang acting like a 4 year old

  • Thread starter Thread starter charlesw6954
  • Start date Start date Jan 6, 2004
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 6, 2004
#1
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #1
the damn thing wont tell whats wrong with it. went and got a diagnostic on the stang but it shows up that everything is working right.

one important question would there be codes being put out from the computer because of the aftermarket stuff i have (which isnt ****). well thats what firestone says. he says that the codes said something about the air intake temperature.
 

Lab Rat

Founding Member
Oct 25, 2002
308
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17
Saxonburg, PA
Jan 6, 2004
#2
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #2
What's "wrong" in the first place? Isn't it running right, are you getting a warning light, what's the deal? Need more info before we can help.

Matt
 
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 6, 2004
#3
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #3
well its sputtering thru out the gears. it will sputter once thru each gear no matter what rpm.
 
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Idwitheld-1`

New Member
Nov 30, 2003
335
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0
Portland Oregon
Jan 6, 2004
#4
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #4
more description please.

surging, lurching, banging....describe the situation with as much detail as possible. You will get the fastest, most accurate help that way.

Example:
Start car after letting sit over night.
Idle for 2 minutes, shift into second at 3500 rpm's. car shudders and lurches. Grinding sound comming from under neath my seat.
Shift into third gear at 4000 rpm's...no issues...works fine. Down shift back to 2nd and it grinds again.

What could it be?

I know your frustrated right now. But with the infinite knowledge and experience on the board here we can help YOU solve your problem. ..just need some more info.
 
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Chetly

New Member
Aug 6, 2003
117
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0
Jan 6, 2004
#5
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #5
ckeck your fuel filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. You might not be getting a clean amount of fuel or a spark to your engine, that will make it run rough. Ckeck timing too, it cant hurt.
 
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 6, 2004
#6
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #6
alright in detail eh? ok i start car let it sit for 4 - 5 minutes or so. put it in reverse (tranny is rebuilt so nothing wrong with tranny) back out. put it into first. lightly press against gas. shift to second at 3000-3500. when in second around 2500 sometimes i just give half throttle and then get on it (but around 3300-3500 is when i fully get on it). then shift to thrid runs smoothly. <---- that was when it is cold and is in the process of warming up.

this is when it warms up ---> im at a stop (doesnt really matter if i'm at stop or going, just giving an example) put into first. let off clutch shift to second at 4000 (if i am hot rodding) then floor it in second and then (at any rpms doesnt matter if i am driving hard or not hard, but mostly does it when driving hard) i am acclerating as fast as it can and something is like cutting out like in that brief milisecond that it cuts out its like getting no fuel or spark. it will also do that in third, fourth, and havent really tried 5th because i have bad tires and tires vibrate the car (it'll do that in first and second as well).


what i have done to try to fix. first i ran codes and they are 91 41 11 something about o2's or something running lean, i then replaced o2's and the car gained back some power and it ran better but problem not fixed, i then replaced tps sensor no help, got brand new Distrib wires didnt fix it, got coil tested works great, spark plugs about 800 - 1200 miles on em, same with cap/rotor, i went out and took #1 plug out and cranked car till the piston something something and found out the timing was perfect dead ON.

as you can see i basically tested the ignition system and nothing wrong with it. havent tested anything on the fuel.

things i havent tested on fuel is fuel filter. firestone said they've tested the fuel pressure, and i guess the diagnostic would check the fuel injectors so yea.


is that detailed? i friggin hope so.
 
J

jerry beach

Founding Member
May 20, 2002
2,671
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46
Ocala,FL
Jan 6, 2004
#7
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #7
A buddy of mine had the same prob. Just an occasional miss. Turned out to be the hall effect pick-up in the distributer. If you have a friend who will swap dizzys with you for a test drive, it would be easy to check. BTW, you check timing with a light, that is the only acceptable way.
 
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 6, 2004
#8
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #8
well i dont got a timing light, but isnt the way i check the timing a correct way to time it?
 

Lab Rat

Founding Member
Oct 25, 2002
308
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17
Saxonburg, PA
Jan 6, 2004
#9
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #9
Nope - all that's going to tell you is whether or not you're getting a spark to that cylinder. It might be your distributor, but it sounds to me like your car is just starving for air. One very simple (and often overlooked) little thing is the air filter. When was the last time you checked on it? Those fenderwell filters can get pretty crappy pretty fast if you're driving on some dirty roads. This seems to happen a lot in the winter in places where they throw salt and sand and cinders on the roads... just a thought.

Seriously, get a timing light and go for a tune up while you're at it.

Matt
 
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 6, 2004
#10
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #10
umm a while back ago the tube that puts the air filter in the fender well fell off because i didnt tighten it tight enough and i ran over the tube and totaly flatend it so i have the air filter attached directly to the maf. its farely new its a little damaged, but when i manualy rev the engine by the throttle cable i can hear the engine sucking in air.
 

RyanSG

Founding Member
Oct 24, 2002
286
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17
Allentown, Pa
Jan 6, 2004
#11
  • Jan 6, 2004
  • #11
might want to go into your mechanic and get your injectors cleaned out. That could be a prob. Mine ran fine and i had it done and i still noticed a difference. Seems like there isn't much left 2 try. also if you rev it high the injectors being clogged will def make the car run lean. i would try that since your runnen outa stuff to try.
 

Lab Rat

Founding Member
Oct 25, 2002
308
0
17
Saxonburg, PA
Jan 7, 2004
#12
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #12
charlesw6954 said:
umm a while back ago the tube that puts the air filter in the fender well fell off because i didnt tighten it tight enough and i ran over the tube and totaly flatend it .....
Click to expand...

Umm, great! That's always a plus
 
S

SPEED FREAK

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
1,448
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0
Regina, SK.
Jan 7, 2004
#13
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #13
I would start with the ignition module and or distributor. Like it was said swap one out for a test bag and see what happens. Oh and for sure buy a timing light.
 

bit

Founding Member
Sep 27, 1999
1,975
1
48
Anderson, SC
Jan 7, 2004
#14
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #14
jerry beach said:
A buddy of mine had the same prob. Just an occasional miss. Turned out to be the hall effect pick-up in the distributer. If you have a friend who will swap dizzys with you for a test drive, it would be easy to check. BTW, you check timing with a light, that is the only acceptable way.
Click to expand...
Jerry hit the nail on the head. Car runs great when cold but then misses and runs like **** when warned up. Watch your tach when you drive it. Every time you feel the miss you can see the tach fall like its being knocked back. I could also watch the light on my Crane box flicker as the car idled. Give it time as it gets worse the car will start to do it a little when it’s cold. Just go get a distributor from AutoZone it is built with Motorcraft parts, make sure you get the steel gear. Good luck.
- Brent
 
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charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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0
Mo
Jan 7, 2004
#15
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #15
thany you bit i was just about to reply asking what gear to get. also i called oreilys and they said they can test only the module so would that show up with any thing if the distrib is bad or should i just buy a new distrib?

yea they carry the cast iron and steel gear. so go with steel eh.
 
8

89lxsport50

10 Year Member
Feb 25, 2003
550
5
39
Franklin Tennessee
Jan 7, 2004
#16
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #16
Have you cleaned your MAF wires? Just an idea.
 

93 teal terror

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2001
971
62
69
Durham N.C.
Jan 7, 2004
#17
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #17
Mine did the same thing and I replaced the ignition module. Had it tested and they said it was bad. So I put an Advance Auto one in and it ran worse than ever. Took it back, they tested it and said it was bad. So I got another one and had them check it to make sure it was good. It worked for about a month, then same thing. I thought it was just the crappy advance auto one so i bought a performance distributors dynamod since i have the rest of their ignition system and im hoping it fixes it.So far it works so im keeping my fingers crossed.
 
C

charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
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Mo
Jan 7, 2004
#18
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #18
how do you clean maf wires???
 
N

noslow5_0

New Member
Nov 7, 2003
422
0
0
dallas tx.
Jan 7, 2004
#19
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #19
hey man i just had the same problem as you!!! Check your fuel pressure!!! Mine was set at 19psi with the vacum off... Turns out its been runnin lean as &*%!!!!
 
C

charlesw6954

Founding Member
May 3, 2002
476
0
0
Mo
Jan 7, 2004
#20
  • Jan 7, 2004
  • #20
my vacuum is on so yea.


Hey if my module was going out on my distributor would it give my car hesitation in the throttle? because i can floor it and feel it going and then it just kicks in and im like wtf?


please repond quickly
 
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