YES IM A NEWB BUT PLEASE HELP HAVE LOTS OF ?S

FORSAKEN

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Nov 5, 2009
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Ok, my name is J.J. i have been very interested in making a 5.0... I have many ?s for you who have a lot of experience in tuning and building 5liters. I work on cars as a hobby and know much about the popularity of these cars and huge aftermarket for them.

My Questions

Im looking for a 89-93 hatch 5.0 most likely will be stock.

I race regularly quatermile and freeway pulls typically i want best of both worlds so should i run 3.73s? 3.90s? or 4.10s? I know 4.10s are best for low end drag but i want to know for sure what works best from those who have tried it all haha

After lets say 3.73s intake,headers,exhaust,75mm maf,underdrive pulleys,and 65mm throttle body. 5 speed, healthy motor running 91 and 4 degrees advanced around what quarter mile time am i looking at and mph???

weight reduction... the car curb weight is around 2800+ lbs i weigh 220 so what can i do to cut weight i know about sound detoning under rear seats, remove spare and jack, rear seats, but hat else can i do?

Suspension... i know this is key in 5liters, what struts and springs do you recommend?

Tires? any luck with a perticular size/brand???

nitrous how much can i run with a simply bolt on 5.0 and without changing fuel delivery and what not???

last ?... goin fast is fun burning out is fun... how do these cars drift id like to play around sometimes but are they easy to control or just donut monsters???

thanks so much guys really appreciate your time and effort to help me...
 
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1) for the best of both worlds, 3.73s

2) mid to low 14s???? depends on how well of a driver you are. the two best things for a 5.0 (or any car for that matter) are a good tune, and traction.

3) if your really really really really trying to lose weight, take the passenger seat out, air bags... everything you dont need. Run really light wheels.... exc

4)As for springs/strut combos, it all depends on what your looking for. track? 1/4? stiff? nice ride? whats your budget here?

5) As for handling fox bodies. I would assume they handle great (Ive never driven the piss out of one to know) I know my car does, BUT thats a completely different body style.

Hope i have helped some.
Wecome to the forums.
 
Thats alot of questions..

If I had a stock stang and were starting from scratch here's what I would do.. My opinion remember.......... Forget pulleys. They do nothing. As for mass air and TB's? Wait until you decide if your going to get into the engine, heads, cam ect until later. What if you want a blower one day and you have a 65mm TB? You'll need a bigger one. You don't want to buy things twice.
Those are my suggestions, some might agree, some won't but your in the right place to get good info from people who know what their talking about. Welcome to the forum...

1- Full length mac long tube 1 5/8 headers.
2- Mac 2 1/2 inch cats and 3inch muffler tailpipe combo
3- Weld rims with skinny's and ET streets
4- I'd go 4.10... but that me
5- Get some sort of cold air intake and filter.
6- Get used to that set up and have some fun,
 
If I had a stock stang and were starting from scratch here's what I would do.. My opinion remember.......... Forget pulleys. They do nothing. As for mass air and TB's? Wait until you decide if your going to get into the engine, heads, cam ect until later. What if you want a blower one day and you have a 65mm TB? You'll need a bigger one. You don't want to buy things twice.
Those are my suggestions, some might agree, some won't but your in the right place to get good info from people who know what their talking about. Welcome to the forum...

1- Full length mac long tube 1 5/8 headers.
2- Mac 2 1/2 inch cats and 3inch muffler tailpipe combo
3- Weld rims with skinny's and ET streets
4- I'd go 4.10... but that me
5- Get some sort of cold air intake and filter.
6- Get used to that set up and have some fun,
:stupid:
stick with the basic bolt ons to start with. I also highly suggest you stiffen the chassis with a set of subframe connectors and a STB.
 
3:73's
subframe connectors
roll your rear fender lips
biggest set of mickey thompson et street radials you can fit under there.
weld and brace torquue boxes
hp megabite jr lower control arms
ford motorsports upper control arms, or if you want to play with pinion angle, a set of adjustable uppers. I'd go for a -2 -4 degree pinion angle.
drag springs
drag shocks and struts
airbag for right rear spring.
That should get you a good 60 ft time at the track or in less than optimal conditions.
As far as the motor goes, what is your budget?
 
I have a hunch that this guy may have been into imports at one time...

But to answer some of your questions, the car you described on slicks could run high 12's if you drive it right in good air. low to mid 13's no problem. Your gonna want longtubes, dont bother with shorties, a set of slicks, or Micket Thompson drag radials. If you dont car about crusing RPM, go with 4.10's.

As far as 2800+ pounds for a hatch, realisticly, its more like 3100+ there are alot of things you can do to shave weight, start with A/C, power steering, and smog pump it all depends how much you wanna spend too. I've got alot of stuff removed from my notch and it weighs 2980 pounds without me in it. People will say they can get a car down to 2600-2800 lbs and i dont see how its possible from my personal expierience
 
ok sweet glad i got so many responses, ok so stykthyn said pulleys do not do anything i was reading up on some gains of each mod it improver hp by about 10 with intake and exhaust. I also read that explorer intake manifold can be a good upgrade why and how much would this improve???

also how well do the drag springs do for handling, drifting, daily driving???

My budget is about 2k after the car is bought... I do almost all my own work...

here is my list please advise where needed

remove air silencer and get cold air intake
remove A/C
Remove smog pump
remove as much weight as possible
underdrive pulleys
3.73s
subframe connectors
springs/struts and shocks( not sure which set up yet)
longtube headers
offroad h pipe full custom 2.5in exhaust
some sticky tires and last but not least spray...

Which brings me to the ? no one answered with out doing internals, upgraded fuel delivery, etc... how much nitrous will the 5liter handle safely...


AND YES TO BE HONEST I AM AN IMPORT GUY... Please note I am not a RICER... i understand power of displacement...

I want to build two race/street cars...One 4banger one V8

I currently have a 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC, it has intake, full exhaust, test pipe, full h&r race springs KYB AGX struts, slotted and crossdrilled front rotors, ceramic/carbon pads all around(good for cold and hot),NGK plugs/wires,competition stage 2 clutch and competition lightweight flywheel,only use royal purple 10-30w,bfg g-force sports 225/50/15 stripped as can be. It has 210k on the original motor still pulls strong and hard still making power till 7800rpm, best time running a 13.9@ 98.1 mph 60ft 2.0 flat 0-60 in 5.41 down for the moment tho... needs tie rods pretty bad and the tires are about done after many canyon runs
 
until you eclipse the 300hp mark which you arent going to do without at least some sort of forced induction or H/C/I you wont need to worry about upgrading your fuel system.

underdrives are garbage and the manufacturer says you are going to see 10hp which in reality is more like .10. money is best spent elsewhere.

you have been given some great starting points. focus on those and learn how to launch the car(not saying you cant drive, but every car is different) then either prep the motor for nitrous, H/C/I, blower, whatever flavor you decide to go with. dont forget that no matter how many ponies you are putting down you still need a decent suspension to get them all to the ground.
 
also how well do the drag springs do for handling, drifting, daily driving???

My budget is about 2k after the car is bought... I do almost all my own work...


Which brings me to the ? no one answered with out doing internals, upgraded fuel delivery, etc... how much nitrous will the 5liter handle safely...

if you want the car to handle dont put drag springs on it, 25thmustang is running mid 12's on lowering springs, so it can be done without having a drag spring. It sounds like you wanna have a car that can hang sideways, take turns and do an occasional 1/4 mile blast. so do some reading on lowering springs, i dont think drag springs would be a wise choice for what you wanna do.

If you have a buget of 2k, forget about internal engine parts. you can spray a 150 safely with just a 255lph in tank fuel pump and a wet nitrous system. a friend of myne sprays 175 on his stock bottom end, but he also dosent care if it blows up. My advice would be to start off with a 75 shot, and slowly step up to 125 or 150 when each shot gets boring.

I'm assuming you dont have a car yet. This is a perfect time to buy, lots of guys are selling for less than half of what they have into thier cars. go to the corral.net classifieds and keep your eye out, do your homework and be careful what you buy, dont rush into something cause you think you have to have it. If you miss a deal on one car, another one will open up for u.

If you sell that prelude, you could have more money for mustang parts :D
 
Well as coming from a former drifter, tis quite ghey after a while, i have some goodies on my car to help it handle better, i drifted for a while and im telling you the list of things you have listed in your thread and the list of things needed to drift a fox is totally different, so figure out what you want to do exactly, if you want to truly lose weight in the car, you're gonna need a tubular k member, remove the HVAC box behind the dash, all the associated AC hardware underneath the hood, all the sound deadening under the carpet, strip the interior down to the bone, remove the passenger seat, rear seat, hatch panels door panels etc. Suspension figure what you want to do first if you drift with drag spring only thing is gonna happen is alot of laughter from your friends, and most importantly of all if you want to drift/handle is LOSE THE STOCK BRAKES, the fox brakes are a joke, the brakes on my mongoose mountain bike work better than those pieces of ****, and i agree on selling the prelude, the fox will do everything all around better than those four rats you got in that thing
 
i wouldn't say one year (between 87-93...i'm assuming you're looking into an aero fox) is better than the other, but like shaolin said, 87-88 stangs are speed density systems which determines a/f based on manifold pressure via a MAP sensor (and other sensors but just showing main difference) and cali stangs from 1988 and all other 89-93 are mass air...i'm going to assume you know what that is. mass air is more adaptive to modifications than speed density is, but speed density works really well. just have to get a tune once major modifications such as LARGE aftermarket heads and cam are done.
 
I found the best way to reduce weight is to cut the calories, try to burn more calories in a day then you consume... or if thats not doing it try hydroxycut.