cenok is family
15 Year Member
LX's had wider fenders too. they did it to clear the 16" pony's that came out in 91
YES IM A NEWB BUT PLEASE HELP HAVE LOTS OF ?S
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LX's had wider fenders too. they did it to clear the 16" pony's that came out in 91
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diponyou50
Member
- Apr 21, 2005
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my guess is there will be close to no more posts by this guy
and this thread will go on for days
seen it all too often
but just in case you actually ever get a stang
theres about nine million threads on what you should do first,and everyone will have a different answer
exhaust,sfc,cai,hci,suspension,spray,supercharger,tb,yada yada yada
do what you can afford and what you want
and this thread will go on for days
seen it all too often
but just in case you actually ever get a stang
theres about nine million threads on what you should do first,and everyone will have a different answer
exhaust,sfc,cai,hci,suspension,spray,supercharger,tb,yada yada yada
do what you can afford and what you want
actually ill be lurking on here often im trying to find the right 5.0 so it could take time i also like to learn from others mistakes making less myself... some other ?s i thought of today...
What weight and brand oil is favored in 5.0s?
common problems or things i should look out for when buying a 5.0
how do 5.0s do on freeway runs??? i looked thru youtube and did not see many freeway runs... i know street racing is not allowed here but say i wanted to hall ass one day lol... as i know many of you on here do regularly...
What weight and brand oil is favored in 5.0s?
common problems or things i should look out for when buying a 5.0
how do 5.0s do on freeway runs??? i looked thru youtube and did not see many freeway runs... i know street racing is not allowed here but say i wanted to hall ass one day lol... as i know many of you on here do regularly...
Questions are getting a bit ridiculous IMO, oil? 10-30 and run autozone generic (they're 16+ year old cars synthetic is pointless at this point) Interstate racing-1. HIGHLY stupid and 2. Leave that for the ricers we need less of them anyways if they want to hit someone doing 140mph+ that's their death.
Each cars going to have different issues, do some research and pick which year/model is best for whatever your attempting
Not trying to be a dick, just trying to get you to use google a bit.
Each cars going to have different issues, do some research and pick which year/model is best for whatever your attempting
Not trying to be a dick, just trying to get you to use google a bit.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
actually you'll find that most of us here are law abiding when it comes to our cars and use the proper venues to enjoy our projects i.e. the track and road course
Coast2CoaStang
Member
- Aug 11, 2008
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diponyou50
Member
- Apr 21, 2005
- 138
- 11
- 19
ok
stick with the basic mods
dont, i repeat dont talk about street racing of any type.its only gonna be bad rep for you
any questions your thinking of, search on here,then search again using different words,then one more time just in case
.most likely youll find what your looking for.if not, then post.
cenok is family
15 Year Member
oil weight depends on engine mileage. high mileage engine (100k+), i'd recommend 10w40 conventional. less than 100k, 10w30 conventional. if it's really low mileage, run a 10w30 synthetic. i run synthetic in my car, but i didn't start using it until i rebuilt my motor. before i rebuilt it i ran 10w40 conventional because the motor had around 145k on it.
when checking mustangs, look for any rust obviously, especially on frame rails. a notorious spot on these cars is under the hood, below the brake booster/master cylinder on the fender apron/subframe. get under the car and check out the floor pans and condition of the torque boxes (where the rear upper and lower control arms attach to the body). check for any hacks, especially wiring hacks as those can be a nightmare. last but not least, see if the ashtray door works.
diponyou50
Member
- Apr 21, 2005
- 138
- 11
- 19
oil weight depends on engine mileage. high mileage engine (100k+), i'd recommend 10w40 conventional. less than 100k, 10w30 conventional. if it's really low mileage, run a 10w30 synthetic. i run synthetic in my car, but i didn't start using it until i rebuilt my motor. before i rebuilt it i ran 10w40 conventional because the motor had around 145k on it.
when checking mustangs, look for any rust obviously, especially on frame rails. a notorious spot on these cars is under the hood, below the brake booster/master cylinder on the fender apron/subframe. get under the car and check out the floor pans and condition of the torque boxes (where the rear upper and lower control arms attach to the body). check for any hacks, especially wiring hacks as those can be a nightmare. last but not least, see if the ashtray door works.
if that ash door dont work,keep walkin
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