You pick MY mod!

[BullittStangV8]

okay guys, ive finally got a decent amount of cash together to mod the bullitt again. ive got about $1800. my current mods are in my sig. i obviously dont have enough money for a blower, and nitrous is outta the question. the car still needs to pass the sniffer, so cams are out. so you guys suggest which mods to do, the cost of them, and why. try to use up all of the 1800 in your list of what YOU would do.
right now a couple of them on my mind are: 4.10's, FL subframes, UCA and LCA's.
Mike
p.s im looking to get the most improvement outta the 1800. i dont want the 1800 to go to not even getting an noticable chance in SOTP or ride/handling quality.

 

[Firemanz]

Built rear-end, welds with slicks, and 4.30's........

I guarantee you will feel a SOTP increase with those.....

 

[03gtmustang]

Well since cams are out, I say the mods that you got on your mind are pretty good. What about some dr's and a chip/tune?

 

[stangman]

i like the 4.10, subframe, upper & lower idea but you'll still have money left over from that. so do a little work to the cobra with that

 

[WhiteDevil69]

i like the 4.10, subframe, upper & lower idea but you'll still have money left over from that. so do a little work to the cobra with that

throw in a short shifter and what about headers?

EDIT: just read your sig... im a little slow..

 

[BullittStangV8]

which company do you guys suggest for the UCA and LCA's? ive heard that the steeda aluminum ones squeek/creak...? also, are the FRPP 4.10's high quality? ive heard that they are not as good as richmonds 4.10s?
Right now im starting to lean towards 4.10s w. a chip, UCA's and LCAs. Should help me in the acceleration, handling, as well as drag racing departments.
Mike

 

[WhiteDevil69]

which company do you guys suggest for the UCA and LCA's? ive heard that the steeda aluminum ones squeek/creak...? also, are the FRPP 4.10's high quality? ive heard that they are not as good as richmonds 4.10s?
Right now im starting to lean towards 4.10s w. a chip, UCA's and LCAs. Should help me in the acceleration, handling, as well as drag racing departments.
Mike

FRPP 4.10's are more than sufficient, haven't had a single problem with mine. As for the CA's, stangnets partshopper has the pro3i UCA's and LCA's for a real good price, i have heard nothing but good things about them but have no personal experiance with them. Anyone ever used them?

 

[MoNsTaMaCk24]

I have 4.10 FRPP... Work great... Its all in the install!!! Id say save a little more money and buy a blower!!! Or dump it all in the 03 cob!!!!!

 

[760-MPH]

is the 03 cobra already modded?

 

[mrvax]

Gears, drag radials and get an adaptive tune EEC reflash which will take care of your speedometer issues too.

 

[BullittStangV8]

who does an adaptive eec reflash? if its mail away, wouldnt it be inferior to a custom dyno chip tune? (in most cases.) but do you lose scanning and trouble codes when you get a custom chip? (such as SEV light). slicks are outta the equation, because im only putting them on once i build up the rear end. (31 spline axles, better dif)
Mike

<edit: the cobra is stock except for a densecharger intake. its still under warenty so im gonna keep the modding to that to a minimal. (read:no more mods for now.. ) >

 

[Arnolds97]

Gears, Cams and a P&P job on your stock heads. The power is in the heads as they say. gain like 35-40hp and get it going quicker with the gears. You would not need to have it blown. It would be close in power anyway. With your mods now you are probably at 285hp. So 320 would be nice and 272 at the wheels would work?

I would think that the Cams and P&P would pass as long as your A/F is corrected with a chip tune.

 

[BullittStangV8]

from what ive gathered the cams arnt passing emissions.. anyone know for sure? obviously i would need a tune for the cams. as for tight now, im gussing i have to be putting out more then 285 hp. stock i came with 275, so its seems unlikly that i only gained 10 hp from headers, mid pipe, aftercat, and an intake. my guess is that i would be closer to 295-300. (flywheel)
lets keep the options/opinions commin
Mike

 

[mity2]

I say save the money, and wait until you have enoughfor the blower.


But I also know how hard it is to not spend money when you have them

 

[BullittStangV8]

well if i went with a blower id have to go the T&J's mongoose kit. anyone know how much they run? Also, would he be able to mail order my computer with the adaptive tune? or would i have to drive down to him to get it tuned?
Mike

 

[damacman]

slicks are outta the equation, because im only putting them on once i build up the rear end. (31 spline axles, better dif)

You kind of answered your own question here. Build the rear -- axles, carrier, gears, labor -- about a grand to $1200 including labor. This still leaves you plenty of dough left to get the subframes, UCAs, and LCAs. Sure would beat heading the inevitable broken axle off at the pass . . . Take the extra dough and save it towards the next round . . . REAL sticky tires?

 

[damacman]

btw, my Hotckis UCAs and LCAs don't squeak a bit and you could take the left over dough and get the torque boxes and axle tubes welded up . . .

 

[JOHNS01GT]

well if i went with a blower id have to go the T&J's mongoose kit. anyone know how much they run? Also, would he be able to mail order my computer with the adaptive tune? or would i have to drive down to him to get it tuned?
Mike

Dude, keep the bullitt N/A you already have the cobra. Go with the 4.10's, subs, and uca/lca(big difference in traction). Oh yeah my steeda aluminum's creak like a mofo, and it sounds like something is broken!!

I have the T&J mail order tune, where you send them your computer and they tune it. When I got dynoed I had a perfectly straight line at 13:1 a/f wot. I highly recommend it.

 

[BullittStangV8]

damacman, thanks for the imput. i was thinking of just spending the whole amount toward really beefing up the rear, and just getting that outta the way so i can move on to bigger things in the future. do you think i would need a new diff.? of is the stock one still good enough to hold up with 31 spline and welded up tubes? currently i dont have the funds to run slicks, and the car is a daily driver so i can run DR's in the back due to millage and wear. (i could think of getting welds and slicks for the track eventually) so how about this:
4.10s
chip&tune
welded tubes
rebuild the rear w. a kit.
LCA's
UCA's
Subframes.
you think it can be done w. parts and labor for less then $1200-1300?
next round would be 31 spline, weld up the trq boxes w. a kit, slicks, and rims for the rear?
Mike

 

[CottonBurnerz]

rebuild rear and do some uca and lca