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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Z-bar Conversion Kit Intallation

  • Thread starter Thread starter BullittStangV8
  • Start date Start date Feb 21, 2007

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Feb 21, 2007
#1
  • Feb 21, 2007
  • #1
Anyone have any links to diagrams/write ups about how to mount/install the z-bar conversion kits needed to run a z-bar style clutch set up on a late 5.0? (the kit mounts on the transmission I believe instead of the block). I did a search and didnt find any specifics. Since 5.0 swaps are so common, it would be good to get some pics/write ups done.
Mike
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Feb 21, 2007
#2
  • Feb 21, 2007
  • #2
Its pretty simple. Triangular piece with three holes. One is threaded. The two non-threaded holes mount under two of the tranny-to-engine bolts. The pivot supplied with the kit screws into the threaded hold. Pretty much only goes on one way.
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Feb 21, 2007
#3
  • Feb 21, 2007
  • #3
I'm sorry for not being so clear. I understand how the z bar conversion plate mounts, but more of how you run you z-bar and linkages to the clutch fork when using the conversion kit.
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Jul 11, 2007
#4
  • Jul 11, 2007
  • #4
Ok. I finally figured it out, So i figure I should do a little write up for people who try and do the same swap/install.

So late model roller block into a 65-66 mustang, with toploader, and still using factory Z-bar.

1) you need the conversion bracket
2) You need the bracket for the other side of the z-bar to pivot on, which is located under the steering box, and the frame rail.
3) the bolts to mount the above mentioned bracket to the frame.

1) Mount the z-bar conversion bracket on to the transmission, with the "pivot point" facing toward the front of the car.
2) Mount the frame bracket on to the car, with the felt washer and bearing
3) The z-bar will pivot inbetween the header primaries if you are using LT's.
4) Mount the zbar onto the clutch rod, and onto the z-bar pivot and frame pivots.
5) Adjust the threaded rod which activated the clutch rod, as the distances are slightly different after the swap.
6) Hooker super comp headers will need to be clearanced to allow the bracket on the transmission to fit.

Hope this helps, because it took me a heck of a long time to figure it out, since i was missing the frame bracket.

Mike
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jul 11, 2007
#5
  • Jul 11, 2007
  • #5
If I had seen this earlier, I could have just taken a picture of what's on my car. It even has a scattershield which makes the conversion bracket non-bolt-on.
 

BullittStangV8

Founding Member
Oct 5, 2002
1,104
0
36
NJ
Jul 11, 2007
#6
  • Jul 11, 2007
  • #6
wow that really sucks. I've realized theres not really too many true "bolt ons" when modifying a classic car beyond stock parts.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jul 11, 2007
#7
  • Jul 11, 2007
  • #7
Even then you're lucky if things fit like they're supposed to.

Case in point:
 
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