Looking for Beefy engine part specs..

[GodAmGT00]

I don't know how many times a day I see people looking for info regarding quality aftermarket engine internals, and rarely see many answers, so I suppose I'm looking for some raw data, and personal experience..


I've got my goal set, and engine disassembly takes place over the next 2 weeks, and this gives me a little time to start planning the engine composition... I was hoping to find out some info, regarding parts, such as tolerances, reliability, compatibility and also price..

I've found a few sites w/ decent info, but haven't really talked to too many people who've used many of the parts.. Currently, I'm looking at the Manley H-Beams, VT Stage 3 Cams (w/ slightly longer duration), Patriot Stage 3 Heads, ARP everything that fastens, and the P-Fizzle; P-51 (man it's going to be an expensive build).

Currently, I'm unsure of the crank, since folks seem to like using the Cobra crank.. What's wrong w/ it, to prevent it from handling 5xx+whp?? I haven't read much about it.. I'm also unsure of pistons/rings, and a few other small odds and ends..

I've done my homework so far.. The Stage 3's, w/ 10psi, should net me close to 5xxwhp... My goal is 500... Who knows what I'm looking for??



JT

 

[ProCharger GT]

See the "My Garage" link in my sig for my engine components. My block combo is strong, but remember that your gonna need a fuel system to go along w/ all that. And a suspension to get your power to the ground.

 

[GodAmGT00]

Thanks for the "backstage," view..

Believe it or not, since I'd had such bad luck in the past, building and racing cars, I figured I'd go a different route this time, and see how it works.. Right now, w/ the exception of my engine, interior and body, everything has been upgraded.. I went w/ the engine last, since it's going to cost the most, next to the paint and body..

The only other issue that's probably going to come up, is roll-cage, which is being figured out.. I don't plan on driving the car for the next year or so, since it's going to be expensive..

As for fuel, I was looking at possibly an external pump w/ fuel cell (weight reduction). Definitely getting at least 60lb Injectors w/ AFPR..

I wonder if an SCT or Diablo will be able to do fine??

I haven't seen too many 2V guys going over 5xxwhp.. That's my goal...



JT

 

[GodAmGT00]

See the "My Garage" link in my sig for my engine components. My block combo is strong, but remember that your gonna need a fuel system to go along w/ all that. And a suspension to get your power to the ground.

I'm rather impressed w/ your set-up, and it seems I'm heading in a similar direction...

I was wondering, is there any merit to O-ringing the blocks/heads since we intend boost, or does the MLHG do a good job of biting down??

What about your Water/Meth injection?? Does that make a big difference when it comes time to tune/run??

Stall converter??



JT

 

[ProCharger GT]

As far as head gaskets go, I have Cometic gaskets - very expensive but they do an excellent job. I wouldn't bother O-ringing the blocks/heads at this point so long as your running < 25 psi boost.

As far as the water/meth goes, I don't have it hooked up yet, ran out of fuel and didn't want to push my luck - my dyno numbers were at 15 psi w/ a maxed out fuel system...so w/ the bigger injectors now I'd probably pull something in the low 500's, not sure what I'd pull w/ the water/meth.

Stall converter is a P.I. triple disc locking torque converter, 2800 RPM stall.

 

[GodAmGT00]

Damn, and that's w/ 60# injectors?? What's up from that?? 72#'s?? What about fuel rail constraints, does the stocker flow enough to support those injectors??


15psi as in, actual boost seen in the engine, or the Boost prediction of the pulley (isn't it a 16psi pulley??) If that's the case, that's not very much pressure drop for your I/C...

I figured the stock converter would be good for now, just to get around, but I don't really even know who makes the TC for our cars.. Does TCI make one?? I have a TCI built tranny, maybe it'd work a little better as a combo...

Thanks a ton for the info so far.. I have a lot of questions, but they don't all come at once...

What about Compressor bypass/blow-off?? I'd prefer bypass, since it's easier to tune, and easier on the spool..



JT

 

[ProCharger GT]

Damn, and that's w/ 60# injectors?? What's up from that?? 72#'s?? What about fuel rail constraints, does the stocker flow enough to support those injectors??


15psi as in, actual boost seen in the engine, or the Boost prediction of the pulley (isn't it a 16psi pulley??) If that's the case, that's not very much pressure drop for your I/C...

I figured the stock converter would be good for now, just to get around, but I don't really even know who makes the TC for our cars.. Does TCI make one?? I have a TCI built tranny, maybe it'd work a little better as a combo...

Thanks a ton for the info so far.. I have a lot of questions, but they don't all come at once...

What about Compressor bypass/blow-off?? I'd prefer bypass, since it's easier to tune, and easier on the spool..



JT

Right, the 495 RW was with 42# injectors. 72# is the next step up from 60#. The PSI on the dyno was 15, not much boost lost.

For the TC, the guy who designed them reccomended nothing but the P.I. brand. Jerry Wroblewski is/was a well known SCT tuner who designed the 4R70W - that is the brand he reccomended - I'm not questioning him.

The P-1SC/D-1SC have bypass valves.

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

You will need a 90mm MAF, and a supporting fuel system. 60# injectors or bigger. My fuel system is maxed right now. To upgrade it's big $$.

Just a note on compressor bypass valves.... Recirculation is great for low HP. There is nothing about it that is easier to tune though. I prefer what you call "blow off" or atmospheric dump. Just run a blow through setup on the MAF. Therefor, if you ever pop a intercooler pipe off, or develop a boost leak, the car can still accurately measure the air as the meter is right before the TB.
It is a more accurate way. And much safer. I have had minor pinhole leaks plague me on the dyno because I was using a draw thru setup for a while.


As for the crank... IF you have the cash for a p-51, do a cobra crank. Hell, if you have to decide between one or the other, do the crank. The intake is easily added later if and when you get the extra cash.
But, personally, I would feel safe pushing my stock crank to about 550RWHP which is about 650HP at the crank.

 

[Rickey_Bobby]

I've done my homework so far.. The Stage 3's, w/ 10psi, should net me close to 5xxwhp... My goal is 500... Who knows what I'm looking for??



JT

PSI does NOT = Power!!!!!

10psi on a t25 turbo and 10 psi on a t76 turbo (on the same motor) differ by over 500CFM. AIR VOLUME makes power, not PSI.
Take a look at the #'s im running in my sig. This is all at 10 psi.
I was running 10 psi on a V-2 vortech... and making only ~390rwhp and ~360RWTQ.

Oh, and ditch the heads and cams. Use that $$ here: www.turbochargedpower.com
You can make A$$ loads of power without fancy heads and cams, and do so rather cheaply.

Just my .02.
...But its working good for me.

Steve

 

[thomas91169]

PSI does NOT = Power!!!!!

you would be excellent on a DSM site...............

 

[GodAmGT00]

Rickey_Bobby,

Believe me when I say that this is already in the planning and being carefully done... I've had the luxury of being a dumbass in the past and blow up expensive parts, just to do it again w/ something stupid... Let's say, I've done a little trial and error in my past..

I'd love to go turbo, but find that there are 2 things that would hold me back..

A) The lack of aftermarket support.. Yeah, that's right, there's a big lack of it.. Few shops of been able to successfully replicate results of going to Twins/Single turbo.. That doesn't steer me away, necessarily, but if I'm going to be dropping $7k on an engine (or parts to do it), then I want to go w/ a more tried and true method...

B) Just like w/ DSMs, or any other car that thrives on turbos, I'll be taking a route that not so much unique, but more so reliable.. I'm going to be using parts that have excellent track records..

That build up they did on the 2000 GT, only yielded 486hp I believe.. The kit cost near $7000, and that doesn't include the engine or a precision tune... Although appealing, I'm building my engine in pieces, and can afford it that way..

I appreciate the insight though, and it'll remain available as an option.. I love turbos, but don't know if I'll use them on the Mustang or not..



JT