Clutch QUADRANT

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
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Hey guys. I do far more reading on here than post so here goes one of my first. I have a 87' GT 5spd and I am usually on top of issues when they arise or more importantly BEFORE they arise or get worse but this time I droped the ball. I replaced the old stock clutch cable with a new OEM cable about 1 year ago and about 3 months ago I have noticed the clutch action to be getting very hard to operate. So much that my foot hurt sometimes after driving in heavy traffic and having to double clutch to get the car into any gear sometimes. This weekend was gonna be fix it weekend but tonight I drove the car up to the food mart and just as I pulled into a parking space the damn clutch pedal went to the floor and all I hear is a clicking sound and the ratching sound of the adjusting mech. on it's way up. Clutch dont work! Had to get the car towed home. My question, I am sure that the clutch QUADRANT is shot and I figure I will buy a new one but what other componets are also necccesary to buy to fix this thing. I need to buy this stuff tomorrow so that I can get it fixed for next week.

Brian
 
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Jegs, Summit, UPR, Steeda...all good makes-just keep your Motorcraft cable...I've read several stories on here about people using aftermarket ones that break, or get stiff really quickly. I've personally never had any problems with my Steeda cable, but hey, yours is new, might as well keep it.

Summit Racing:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294839071+400304+4294908331+115&autoview=sku

Jegs

website was down...

Steeda

http://www.steeda.com/products/clutch_adjuster_kits.php

UPR

http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=123&cat=Fir

hope this helps...good luck!
 
New question. It was a real bitch to get my hand inside the dash to get the new cable on, how hard is it to install a new quadrant? I figure I will remove the drivers seat to make life eaiser. Also, what is it that breaks on the these stock quads?
 
It kinda sux to install...but it goes on easier than the original came off-or at least it did for me. The part that breaks are the little teeth on the plastic quadrant itself allowing the adjuster pawl to just "skip" over them...same thing happened to me on my way to the parts store one day...talk about irony. Thankfully enough of the teeth were still left to get just enough disengage to put it in gear and shift using the synchros.

Anyway, it shouldn't be too bad for you. I'd probably put the cable in first and pull it out all the way under the dash so you only have to get under there once, otherwise your back may start screaming...
 
If you haven't gotten the old one off yet, you'll need a pair of pliers to pull the hairpins, and a prybar or really long screwdriver comes in handy for prying off the quadrant and adjuster pawl.
 
Taking the old stuff out sucks ass. Putting the new stuff in is really easy. Also changing cables is a breeze with the aluminum stuff.

You will need an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster for your oem non-adjustable cable. About any of the major brands are decent stuff.

I have broke or stretched about every brand cable there is. Even Ford ones. But I will say the Ford are the strongest ones I have came across.

Good luck.
 
Taking the old stuff out sucks ass. Putting the new stuff in is really easy. Also changing cables is a breeze with the aluminum stuff.

You will need an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster for your oem non-adjustable cable. About any of the major brands are decent stuff.

I have broke or stretched about every brand cable there is. Even Ford ones. But I will say the Ford are the strongest ones I have came across.

Good luck.

Well I bought the UPR tripple hook and firewall adjuster. Getting the old quads out was a real ASS but at least the new stuff went in quick. Thanks to everyone that helped me out on this and one day I hope I can return the favor.
 
how long did it take...I never touched a quad before but I have changed a few cables on mustangs at work
Me and a buddy put a quadrant and firewall adjuster in my car this weekend. I'm not sure exactly how long it took us, but it was definitely a couple hours. Getting the stock quadrant off isn't a huge deal, but there's a little plastic adjuster gear held on by a spring that was a bitch to get off. It's nice to do it with 2 people so you can work from under the dash, and through the hole in the firewall under the hood at the same time. There's a bracket next to the pedal that would not allow this piece to come right off of its shaft. So, to get mine off, I had to first pry the spring out of the plastic piece. Then, my buddy pushed the clutch pedal as far as he could onto the floor, and I had to position the piece just right from up top and pry it off with a screwdriver. After getting that part off, the assembly went pretty smooth. The added length of the firewall adjuster being on the clutch cable put the cable in an odd position under the hood, so I bent the clutch cable bracket a little bit that's under the hood so the cable was routed smoothly with no sharp bends. Hope this helps.

I have about 3/4 in free play in my pedal so I'm sure my cable is shot, I bought a BBK quad and firewall adjust from a friend brand new for 80 bucks, anyone ever use them...thanks
That doesn't mean your cable is shot. Mine had some free play in it, because the stock adjuster wasn't doing its job. You will be able to adjust that out with the firewall adjuster. I like mine adjusted really tight so the clutch engages at the very top, but make sure you don't adjust it so tight that the clutch doesn't fully engage, which will make your clutch slip.
 
Me and a buddy put a quadrant and firewall adjuster in my car this weekend. I'm not sure exactly how long it took us, but it was definitely a couple hours. Getting the stock quadrant off isn't a huge deal, but there's a little plastic adjuster gear held on by a spring that was a bitch to get off. It's nice to do it with 2 people so you can work from under the dash, and through the hole in the firewall under the hood at the same time. There's a bracket next to the pedal that would not allow this piece to come right off of its shaft. So, to get mine off, I had to first pry the spring out of the plastic piece. Then, my buddy pushed the clutch pedal as far as he could onto the floor, and I had to position the piece just right from up top and pry it off with a screwdriver. After getting that part off, the assembly went pretty smooth. The added length of the firewall adjuster being on the clutch cable put the cable in an odd position under the hood, so I bent the clutch cable bracket a little bit that's under the hood so the cable was routed smoothly with no sharp bends. Hope this helps.


That doesn't mean your cable is shot. Mine had some free play in it, because the stock adjuster wasn't doing its job. You will be able to adjust that out with the firewall adjuster. I like mine adjusted really tight so the clutch engages at the very top, but make sure you don't adjust it so tight that the clutch doesn't fully engage, which will make your clutch slip.


What he said :nice: